Thanks for the vote of confidence

I cannot be the only one that has thought "if i just turn that one valve cover bolt a 16th of a turn that oil leak will go away"

I think the thing that is bugging the crap out of me is the drivers side window not working. I look like a dork at drive thrus. (i'm going with that as why I look like a dork)
if the front pass window works it is not the fuse correct?

 

I am dipping into this thread again , so I may have missed something, but are you sure it isn't the motor? I had the same absurd situation where I had to open my door at drive-throughs. It was the motor. Easily replaced.

 

You didn't miss anything.

 

Well, hell, you have the misfire. The oil leak. Driver window. OE non-serviceable driveshaft with unknown number of "services."

And this is just what was mentioned in this thread, unless Im forgetting something. I wouldn't drive my D2 with a misfire, especially one of the multi-cylinder variety, so I would definitely put 100 percent of my attention on that fix. Have you made any headway on that, BTW?

 

Agree on that. The misfire will eventually ruin something you shouldn't have to replace: the y pipe with both catalytic converters.

I re read the thread and on the second run through with a scanner you had misfires but there were only 4 codes put of 8 shown. Did the misfires improve at all with the plugged in wires?

There is a chart somewhere with the coils that go to specific cylinders. Lemme see.




I like this one better:




So the 6, 2, 5 and random misfires are not on one coil. The coils could just be going bad but if the bolts are in (all 4) and the engine ground strap is tightened down by the driver side head to the firewall, I wouldn't naturally suspect the coils.

Whenever I get random misfires I immediately suspect vacuum, MAF, or catalytic converters clogging, in that order. The brake cleaner trick works to find a big vacuum leak and my video above shows where I would spray. The only way to check the cats other than a code is to drop the exhaust by taking off the three bolts on each side where the manifold attaches to the y pipe for a short, loud idle to see if the engine smoothes out. The MAF... Just unplug yours at the connector. If nothing changes then it is entirely suspect and you should consider getting a cheap one or borrowing one. I'd do it in that order. Vacuum is the most likely. If the previous owner ran it alot with a flashing service engine light then the cats may be toast, resulting in the p1300, and the cheapest fix is a cheapie Davico y pipe with cats on eBay or Amazon. I have one. They work. But I wouldn't do that unless dropping the exhaust takes care of the misfires.

I had a horrible experience with a stuck injector (ruined a remanufactured engine, basically, on the very first run) but I haven't read any reason to assume that's an issue. You could put an injector cleaner in the gas. Otherwise you have to pull them and take them to a shop, which really isn't that hard.

I'm sure you have found all of the engine electrical connectors and made sure they are connected but I not I can made a quick video.

The worst thing it could be, in my mind, is a lack of compression in the cylinders because that would require a rebuild but I don't see how that could be the case with so many misfires.


You haven't seen sparks between wires and have good wires. You could swap the #1 and #2 wires to see of the misfire moves and if it does, the wires have degraded. STI wires are great but they don't last forever. No point in swapping 5 and 6 because they are the same length. But if 2 resolves with a swap, then wires are an issue. Swapping the wires is a huge pain in the behind, so you might want to try moving the plugs around first of you haven't already.

I'm assuming you haven't been losing coolant or getting exhaust bubbles in the expansion tank, so there is no reason to suspect head gaskets.

My post is getting sort of random. I wish you lived close and Id be glad to help in person. Let us know what the current status us and what you've done and we will figure it all out. The oil leak is probably the least problem at the moment.

 

I was going to have the codes read again last night but 4 kids
I will look at the wires at the coil this afternoon.
I replaced all the plugs two days ago. I was astonished at how smooth it was right after for a few miles. Then she started running a bit rough. I have only driven a mile or two since. Why would new plugs smooth things out then go back to rough? Does that help with thinking wires or coils? Buying a spark tester today as well.
Also brake parts cleaner as well. I will video both spark test and brake cleaner explosion...I mean test as well.
All kidding aside I really am overwhelmed with everyones assistance. Thank you!

 

When you replaced the coils did you remove the battery? I just caught that you said it ran smoothly at first. That's significant to me if the battery was disconnected and you just replaced coils and plugs.

If the battery is disconnected for a time, the computers go back to a base mode of operation and adapt to your engine as you drive. They start over. If that's what happened here and yours ran good then I'd STRONGLY suspect a bad MAF and/or a vacuum leak (which is MAF helps catch) as a major cause of misfires because mine has done the exact same thing! Progress!!!!

A bad MAF can make your truck run like it has a vac leak when it doesn't. I meters the air flowing in and tells the computer something that results in different firing (I think... pretty sure).

If you didn't disconnect the battery then I might be excited for nothing.

Do you know anyone with a Disco II who would let you borrow their MAF for thirty minutes? Swapping a known good one in would tell the tale, I think. Unplugging the connector to your MAF with no change would point at the MAF but isn't definitive. Unplugging the battery and getting smooth running again would be stronger evidence of a bad MAF and/or vacuum leak. But swapping them would narrow it down considerably.

 

I only replaced the plugs. I did not disconnect the battery. The battery is new but I replaced it prior to replacing the plugs.

 

Well damn. But there has to be a reason that it ran fine and a physical problem in the engine isn't going to change.

If you were next door to me I'd sneak over, disconnect the battery, and hold the cables together for an hour with tape or a zip tie to dissipate any charge in the electronics, then reconnect it. If your rover didn't run better the first few minutes after I reconnected the battery I wouldn't tell you that I'd tried. But if it did I'd claim victory and demand to be carried around the driveway on chair. As the new king I would then decree new coils and a new MAF because the main problem would almost surely be electronic (if it ran fine for a few minutes).

 

I would naturally scream GET OFF MY LAWN!