Discovery II Talk about the Land Rover Discovery II within.
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Overheat light comes and goes, other problems

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Oct 4, 2012 | 01:58 AM
  #1  
SpoonyLove's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
2nd Gear
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Default Overheat light comes and goes, other problems

Hi guys

I purchased a '04 Discovery recently.. I am triage-ing several problems currently, with (A) being the highest priority. To be clear, the only problems present when I bought the car were the warning lights:

A) Overheat light - Just last night, I was stuck in stopped traffic in hot weather, and noticed for the first time, that the vehicle overheat light was on. I immediately turned off A/C, was very concerned, but traffic opened up about 1 min later, and the car cooled off almost immediately to normal temp after no more than 1/4 mile of driving at about 30 mph. The same thing happened this morning-- overheated when stopped, but cools off RAPIDLY (think <1 minutes) after moving. I checked, and my radiator fan is turning normally, as far as I can tell. My first thought would be a thermostat issue, but I'd love to hear what people think. I haven't recently checked coolant levels, but as of 2 weeks ago, it looked fine. No leaks under the car that I've seen.

B) driveline lash between 1st and 2nd gear (I'm thinking this is could be related to the front driveshaft, and intend to have it checked out/rebuilt asap, per several threads here)

C) Three amigos Lights - Lots of threads on this, its a lower priority fix at this point

D) SRS light is on - I tried a couple "easy" fixes, and need to have it checked out with a code reader

E) E-brake light is on - I have exercised the e-brake, and the light won't go away. The e-brake handle is bent slightly towards the driver, and I think this could indicate hard use of the system. Brake fluid level is good. Again, lower priority, but on the list.

F) When steering hard in parking lots, I occasionally hear a light groan.. ???
 
Reply
Old Oct 4, 2012 | 02:57 AM
  #2  
909wheeler's Avatar
Mudding
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 183
Likes: 0
From: Park City, Utah
Default

(A) sounds like a bad fan clutch. With the engine up to temp and the engine off, the fan should not spin freely when spun by hand. If it does, its bad. You should also hear the fan with the engine running and engine revved up. It's will be loud if working.

Also, dont drive it until the issue is fixed or you will have a much more serious issue if damage hasn't been done already.
 
Reply
Old Oct 4, 2012 | 03:22 AM
  #3  
lr2001silver's Avatar
Banned
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 1,533
Likes: 4
Default

(You need to not drive your truck period)
You will cause your engine to be toast if it is not already it is never good to let a engine overheat and the gauge on the dash is useless and you need to purchase a ultra gauge to monitor you engine temp properly. If you have read and understood any information on this forum you should have noticed that has been stated several times. When you purchase any vehicle you need to monitor the fluid levels daily for a few weeks to know what is going on with it. My assumption is your head gaskets are shot and more than that your heads are warped now and possibly your block= ruined engine and you are in need of major repairs now. Please don't take this in a negative way but you do not seem very mechanical and if you have done the engine damage that it sounds like you now have a yard ornament that is going to cost you thousands in repairs. Either your water pump is to blame thermostat or blockage in your coolant system. The rest of your concerns are important but why do any of those to a vehicle that needs a new engine?
 
Reply
Old Oct 4, 2012 | 06:26 AM
  #4  
drowssap's Avatar
Baja
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 9,298
Likes: 318
From: Boston Strong
Default

you need to stop driving, get it to a Independant shop that can read all land rover codes. If they can only read some codes , keep looking for someone that can read them all, ABS and SLS code can not be read with standard equipment.

1. you need the coolant system tested.
2. you need you front drive shaft inspected.
3. you need your ABS codes read.
4. you need you SLS codes read.
5. you need you ebrake checked, (could just be the switch on the handle).
6. the tire squeal could meen that your CDL is locked.
you probablly also have engine codes that you do not even know about
 
Reply
Old Oct 4, 2012 | 10:14 AM
  #5  
Disco Mike's Avatar
Administrator
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 25,707
Likes: 107
From: Denver, Colorado
Default

Or, stop driving it, buy yourself a Hawkeye scanner that can test all that and probably save a lot of money.
As for your overheat, how mechanical are you, can you follow directions and want to save a lot of money, then send me your number and I'll walk you thru this mess.
 
Reply
Old Oct 4, 2012 | 11:06 AM
  #6  
Savannah Buzz's Avatar
Super Moderator
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 16,322
Likes: 88
From: Savannah Georgia
Default

Overheat light is for lighting the way to the dealership for a new engine. Can't trust the gauge so much, it is designed to give you no cause for alarm until overheating begins, then whamo! See pix of what a scanner (Ultra Gauge) and factory gauge say is going on. Normal running temp should be below 215F except in a few conditions. We can all agree that 230, etc. is too hot. My D1 runs at 180-183F.
 
Attached Thumbnails Overheat light comes and goes, other problems-pittsburgh-20120905-00034.jpg  
Reply
Old Oct 4, 2012 | 02:18 PM
  #7  
jfall's Avatar
TReK
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 3,171
Likes: 45
Default

I am thinking your coolant system needs bleed.
As there are air pockets and the sensors then are exposed to high heat. As is your engine.

Yeah, you gotta not drive it at all.
Tow to dealer.

How many miles on it?
You may need head gaskets.
Those wear out - for really no reason at all.
They just go - at 100,000 miles or so.

The 2001 I bought had misfire codes and the fan would come on without the A/C even on.
I never got a hot light but -- I bet I was close.

Very best luck to you..

People do sell these as they can't afford to battle the problems on and on.
It just wears people out.

But, the stewards of this board will help you.
 
Reply
Old Oct 5, 2012 | 05:41 AM
  #8  
drowssap's Avatar
Baja
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 9,298
Likes: 318
From: Boston Strong
Default

You want an Independant shop not a dealer.
I can see a $4500 bill in your future if you head to a dealer.
 
Reply
Old Oct 5, 2012 | 10:10 AM
  #9  
jfall's Avatar
TReK
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 3,171
Likes: 45
Default

Dealer - as in Vegas. House always wins.

AB. Is there gold in your mouth? We want that too. Pony up.
 
Reply
Old Oct 24, 2012 | 10:45 PM
  #10  
Dark's Avatar
3rd Gear
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Default

Over heat light, check your themo.located next to your radiator on the DII its a three way plastic device best done when engine is cold.slip off clamps and renew easy peezy.
 
Reply



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:48 PM.