Part I

Well long story short for part 1. Old style air filter thru engine, engine was overheating before I started pulling it apart, Am loving the cool shape touch of steel/alluminium on my skin and oily stains under my finger nails.

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So I have now pulled the heads off and am back at the block which doesn't look cracked (neither do the heads) but gaskets may have been compromised. I found that front end of heads had a clayey grim (waxy) blocking the 5mm hole that is where the was flow is mean to go. Also some of the cyclinders are caked (noticably) in soot.

1. Is it normal that there is soot inside the cyclinders?
2. Should the water channels be blocked with a waxy yellow (clay like) substance?
3. Is it normal for the blots directly below the water channels on the head to have begun rusting?

4. I noticed that one of the exhaust manifold blots is missing completely, would this be a big problem? Amd others weren't tight.
5. The gaskets between the exhaust and the head, do these need to be replaced or can they be reused if in good condition?

6. when I clean that push rods or other innereds of the engine with a solvent degreaser, when cleaning out the wash area/container I am finding the bottom of the container fill of soot like deposits. Is this normal?

7. The cyclinders look fine, apart from a few soot deposits, so should I skip pulling the block apart and just focus on the oil areas (sump) which look super cooked?

8. The intake manifold has a water nossel that has rusted thru what is the best solution for getting this fix?

[IMG]local://upfiles/2287/182C68EFB8F3416EA924D7B7E0416E07.jpg[/IMG]

All answers will be appreciated as I am a computer developer and this is the first engine I have pulled apart.

Delay in getting to part two was that had to work one weekend + U2 concert then mates birthday BBQ and lots of drinking. and other weekend cancelled out with storms in sydney (man it is november, thats not mean to happen).

Great fun pulling a car engine apart, just hope I have recorded enough details to put it back together!

U

 

So how many miles on the project?
You have a good cleaning job in front of you. I would suggest you send the heads and intake plus all other parts to a shop that has a good parts cleaner, it would be worth it for you at any reasonable cost to have them clean it for you.
Actually, why don't you PM me with your tele number and let me call you, this could be a long conversation.
Mike

 

I have just pulled the heads on the exact same engine that your working on now. Putting it back together this weekend as I had them machined. Take your heads to a machine shop and tell em you want them resurfaced with a valve job. As it turned out for me, they said they were pretty warped (expected) and I also had a bent exhaust valve (they showed it to me). So here goes.
In response.

1. It is completly normal to have soot in your cylinders and head area. Just clean out as much as you can. In 10,000 miles yoru gonna have the same build up anyway so dont stress over it too much.

2. I also had that clay like substance as well. I didnt' notice it was blocking anything. It is just sealant that was used at the link where the intake gasket meets with the two rubber gaskets at the front and rear of the intake manifold. When your putting it back together make sure you use some gasket sealant in those areas. Just clean off the present residue with a 3m pad or alike.

3. A little bit of rust is normal on the bolts. But it looks like your stuff is pretty rusted, I would reccomend replacing them.

4,5 You'll want to replace that exhaust bolt and probably the rest of them and they are prone to rust (mine were). You'll need a head gasket kit, which will include all the exhaust gaskets as well. I reccomend replacing them.

6. Again the build up is normal, it's just carbon deposits and burnt oil residue. Just do your best to clean it all up, but again don't stress over it.

7. If by sump and oil areas you mean your oil pan and gasket, that area shouldn't have been too affected by the overheat. Of course if its leaking by all means replacedit though. If your block and cylinders, and cylinder sleeves are good, then I would just focus on the heads and intake.

8. That water nozzle needs to be plucked and replaced. Try pulling it out with some pliers, if you cant, take it to your friendly machine shop and they can get it out, Then replace it. If it's rusted the intake out, your either have to drill it out and get a resized nozzle or get a new intake. But again, take it to the machine shop first before you do anything drastic.

Well I'm jealous of the U2 concert as I am a huge fan. Saw them last year here in phoenix, awesome!!
Well Im going out to reassemble my stuff now. hopefully I'll get er done by tomorrow night. Feel free to ask me anything as this is a project I kow all to well about.
Good luck!

 

Thanks, for replying guys ...

Especially roverguy (rovergirl ... ).

As you can tell I am a very diy guy, with long gaps between action. For Disco mike there is 210K km on the dial (didn't pm u as in australia and throught the toll call might be expensive) . My plan is to leave cars and go the green bike tour lifestyle, I just want to fix this up for no cost and my learning exp. So not really thinking about expensive mechanic jobs.

Questions to come and will post photos of the insides when I get closer to putting engine back together but for now I have a higher priority building a bicycle trailer in 20 days and the joys of learning structural support, load balance ... for 9 day tour of tasmania (And to learn how bad my trailer design is befor when build mark 2 for round the world ride).

Questions:

I have read that there is gasket sealant required for when i put the engine back together, what sealant needed and does any one have links to where I can read about apllying?

I fact any site that detail techniqueof doing stuff, with pic would be great?

Thanks again.