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Old Jan 18, 2011 | 11:32 PM
  #11  
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Why are you replacing it?
 
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Old Jan 19, 2011 | 12:15 PM
  #12  
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i thought i would replace it since its only $20 on the Rovers North website. i have been having problems with my 2001 Rover runninng very hot. I had a leak so i replaced the thermostat and fixed the leak. I also replaced the resivior cap because it was worn our and missing the gaskets. now that i have done all that it is still getting hot but there are no leaks. So i am guessing that it might be a bad sensor?
 
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Old Jan 19, 2011 | 12:19 PM
  #13  
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Get a scan gauge or ultra gauge to verify the engine temperature. The stock temp gauge is worthless.
 
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Old Jan 19, 2011 | 08:45 PM
  #14  
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Is your engine running hot, or does your temperature gauge show hot? These are two different things. I suppose the ECT could be bad and showing a higher temperature on the gauge than the engine actually is, but even if you got a scan gauge or ultra gauge, both are going to take their readings from the ECT. Since these engines don't have a separate sensor for the gauge, you might want to get an infrared thermometer and start measuring the coolant hoses to see if their temperatures correspond with what the gauge is showing.

I would doubt, though, that the sensor is bad. Did you completely bleed the coolant system of air? Have you fixed all of your leaks?
 
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Old Jan 25, 2011 | 11:45 AM
  #15  
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So this weekend i flushed the radiator and some chunks of the old thermostat came out of the radiator. I think that was the problem, the pieces were blocking the flow. So i put everything back together. Refilled the system with the DEX-COOL antifreeze and vented all the air out of the lines. i started the disco and let it run. Everything was working great. Then my wife noticed i had a leak. I stopped the engine. Looked for the leak and found that the return line from the Radiator to the Resivior was cracked in 3 different places. I dont know when that happened but the cracks were under the top fan cover. I have the Bosch engine if that helps. I am trying to rig a hose to run from the radiator to the resivior right now until the one i ordered from RoversNorth gets here. Hopefully once i replace that hose it will fix all my problems with the cooling system. Thank you all that have helped me so far on this issue.
 
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Old Jan 31, 2011 | 03:12 PM
  #16  
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Angry still got problems

so this weekend after flushing the radiator, refilling the system with the Dex-Cool antifreeze, completely venting the system, and replacing the radiator return hose to the resivior i started the truck and no leaks. I let it sit at idle and warm up to operating temp. Still no leaks. I drove it around the pond (about a mile) and when i got back to the house i lifted the hood and the Vent cap blew off somewhere. I still havent found it. I know it was tight when i drove off cause i used a screw driver to tighten it down. Now my Disco is sitting cause i need a new cap and dont know where to get one. Anyone have any ideas? Also, does anyone know why the cap would have blown off like that? The system was filled to the MAX mark on the resivior, the cap was tight on the resivior, the vent cap was tight, and i have no leaks.
 
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Old Jan 31, 2011 | 09:08 PM
  #17  
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Are you talking about the bleed screw on the "T" piece on the upper radiator hose?
If so that piece has been recalled and needs to be replaced.
You can find that screw at a BMW dealer.
www.atlanticbritish.com
 
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Old Jan 31, 2011 | 09:12 PM
  #18  
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Since you no longer have the vent screw to see if it has threads on it, see if there are threads on what it screws into. If screws into the upper radiator hose on top of the radiator, you should replace that hose with the updated design http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/PCH000460G.cfm which has the bleed screw in the "T" fitting. Regardless of which style hose you have, my guess is the threads pulled out on either the vent screw, or the fitting, due to age. If there are still threads in the fitting, you can get a replacement screw from a BMW dealer part number 17 11 1 712 788.
 
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Old Feb 1, 2011 | 08:58 AM
  #19  
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okay, i will have to check on the threads. I might just buy a new hose and the new T with the bleed screw in the T fitting since mine is in the upper hose, not the T fitting.
 
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