Overheating
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Three Wheeling
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 99
Likes: 6
From: NC
Overheating
I have a disco II year 2000 that I keep in mint condition. Recently had the cooling system redone. Knew radiator hoses and also resivore. I now will loose about a half jug of prestine over a couple of weeks and rover will overheat. I had it back to the rover place that did my work they tested everything and can find nothing. But it still has the same problem. No sign of leakage under the rover that you can see when running or not running. No crazy white smoke out of exhaust. Engine runs fabulous
no issues on that end. I have taken to another rover speclst. to have it looked at. If anybody has any ideas i would be gratefull. It has to be loosing it somewear. Thanks so much for the help.
Joseph Ferguson
no issues on that end. I have taken to another rover speclst. to have it looked at. If anybody has any ideas i would be gratefull. It has to be loosing it somewear. Thanks so much for the help.
Joseph Ferguson
TReK
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 2,748
Likes: 506
From: Seattle, Wa
Usually an issue with properly bleeding all the air out of the system. If there is a big air pocket the system will appear full but it is not, so later when some air escapes through the expansion tank the level will appear to go down. Does the heat work?
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Three Wheeling
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 99
Likes: 6
From: NC
The heat wrks great when i fill the radiator back up. It also was filled when i brought it back into the rover shop that did the work and they tested it. I would hope they know how to add fluid. But you never know i guess. What is the proper way to refill. I do it through the expansion tank while it is running.
TReK
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 2,748
Likes: 506
From: Seattle, Wa
Here is the factory bleed procedure:
1 With engine cold, remove bleed screw from top hose.
2 Unclip the bleed hose from the battery box.
3 Remove expansion tank from its mounting bracket. Slowly fill the expansion tank with coolant, approx. 4 litres (7 pt.)
4 Raise the expansion tank approx. 20 cm (8 in) vertically, coolant will drain into the system.
5 Refill the coolant expansion tank until a steady flow of coolant is emitted from the bleed hole.
6 Fit the bleed screw then, with the expansion tank still raised, continue filling the system until the coolant level reaches the base of the expansion tank filler neck.
7 Fit expansion tank filler cap, fit the expansion tank to its mountings and clip the bleed hose to the battery box.
8 Start and run engine until normal operating temperature is reached, and check for leaks.
9 Switch off engine and allow to cool.
10 Check for leaks and top-up coolant to cold level
mark on expansion tank.
You may need to do this a few times, always start with the engine cold.
An extra measure that also works (after doing the above) is to (with engine stone cold) open the bleed screw and using a funnel top up with coolant. Opening the bleed screw while cold allows any air trapped at that high point to escape, you replace it with coolant. It took me four mornings to do this. Each day I added less coolant. by the fourth day there was no air. This version of the procedure is cleaner as you don't have to clean up the coolant that comes out the bleed screw hole as you hold up the reservoir.
1 With engine cold, remove bleed screw from top hose.
2 Unclip the bleed hose from the battery box.
3 Remove expansion tank from its mounting bracket. Slowly fill the expansion tank with coolant, approx. 4 litres (7 pt.)
4 Raise the expansion tank approx. 20 cm (8 in) vertically, coolant will drain into the system.
5 Refill the coolant expansion tank until a steady flow of coolant is emitted from the bleed hole.
6 Fit the bleed screw then, with the expansion tank still raised, continue filling the system until the coolant level reaches the base of the expansion tank filler neck.
7 Fit expansion tank filler cap, fit the expansion tank to its mountings and clip the bleed hose to the battery box.
8 Start and run engine until normal operating temperature is reached, and check for leaks.
9 Switch off engine and allow to cool.
10 Check for leaks and top-up coolant to cold level
mark on expansion tank.
You may need to do this a few times, always start with the engine cold.
An extra measure that also works (after doing the above) is to (with engine stone cold) open the bleed screw and using a funnel top up with coolant. Opening the bleed screw while cold allows any air trapped at that high point to escape, you replace it with coolant. It took me four mornings to do this. Each day I added less coolant. by the fourth day there was no air. This version of the procedure is cleaner as you don't have to clean up the coolant that comes out the bleed screw hole as you hold up the reservoir.
Last edited by Dave03S; Feb 2, 2017 at 12:07 PM.
Pro Wrench
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 1,617
Likes: 184
From: Lake Tahoe
I just purchased one of these.
https://www.amazon.com/UView-550000-...=uview+airlift
Haven't used it yet, but I expect it to pay me back well.
https://www.amazon.com/UView-550000-...=uview+airlift
Haven't used it yet, but I expect it to pay me back well.
Pro Wrench
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,709
Likes: 137
From: NE PA
Here is the factory bleed procedure:
1 With engine cold, remove bleed screw from top hose.
2 Unclip the bleed hose from the battery box.
3 Remove expansion tank from its mounting bracket. Slowly fill the expansion tank with coolant, approx. 4 litres (7 pt.)
4 Raise the expansion tank approx. 20 cm (8 in) vertically, coolant will drain into the system.
5 Refill the coolant expansion tank until a steady flow of coolant is emitted from the bleed hole.
6 Fit the bleed screw then, with the expansion tank still raised, continue filling the system until the coolant level reaches the base of the expansion tank filler neck.
7 Fit expansion tank filler cap, fit the expansion tank to its mountings and clip the bleed hose to the battery box.
8 Start and run engine until normal operating temperature is reached, and check for leaks.
9 Switch off engine and allow to cool.
10 Check for leaks and top-up coolant to cold level
mark on expansion tank.
You may need to do this a few times, always start with the engine cold.
An extra measure that also works (after doing the above) is to (with engine stone cold) open the bleed screw and using a funnel top up with coolant. Opening the bleed screw while cold allows any air trapped at that high point to escape, you replace it with coolant. It took me four mornings to do this. Each day I added less coolant. by the fourth day there was no air. This version of the procedure is cleaner as you don't have to clean up the coolant that comes out the bleed screw hole as you hold up the reservoir.
1 With engine cold, remove bleed screw from top hose.
2 Unclip the bleed hose from the battery box.
3 Remove expansion tank from its mounting bracket. Slowly fill the expansion tank with coolant, approx. 4 litres (7 pt.)
4 Raise the expansion tank approx. 20 cm (8 in) vertically, coolant will drain into the system.
5 Refill the coolant expansion tank until a steady flow of coolant is emitted from the bleed hole.
6 Fit the bleed screw then, with the expansion tank still raised, continue filling the system until the coolant level reaches the base of the expansion tank filler neck.
7 Fit expansion tank filler cap, fit the expansion tank to its mountings and clip the bleed hose to the battery box.
8 Start and run engine until normal operating temperature is reached, and check for leaks.
9 Switch off engine and allow to cool.
10 Check for leaks and top-up coolant to cold level
mark on expansion tank.
You may need to do this a few times, always start with the engine cold.
An extra measure that also works (after doing the above) is to (with engine stone cold) open the bleed screw and using a funnel top up with coolant. Opening the bleed screw while cold allows any air trapped at that high point to escape, you replace it with coolant. It took me four mornings to do this. Each day I added less coolant. by the fourth day there was no air. This version of the procedure is cleaner as you don't have to clean up the coolant that comes out the bleed screw hole as you hold up the reservoir.
Pull the rover onto a steep hill so the rad is the highest part.
Let it run, turn on heat.
Open the bleed screw.
Why is this better?
It changes the angle of the hoses at the heater core and everything just seems to float to that bleeder screw.
Rock Crawling
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 438
Likes: 58
You said,
""I will loose half a jug of Preston every 2weeks"",, ""it was also filled when I brought it back to rover shop"",,
Half a jug = almost 2quart's,,, even with worst bleeding procedure you cannot have that much air in system , never the less half a jug twice, which will make it a full gallon,!
Most air that can be trapped in system is about a quart max, & that will make a rover overheat very quickly, so even if you had air pocket somewhere that coolant you lost should have been replacing the air in system, (when engine heats up & cools off a few times it gets rid of air after few cycles by itself),, unless something else goes wrong,, like letting engine over heat too much on a old set of head gaskets,
Did you replace T-stat as well,? & with what brand and temp rating,?
When you mentioned overheating, did you noticed it by trucks temp gauge or a scan gage that showed live data & to what degree,? Because if it's truck gauge, as you know it went well over 230*F, to make it move up,
""I will loose half a jug of Preston every 2weeks"",, ""it was also filled when I brought it back to rover shop"",,
Half a jug = almost 2quart's,,, even with worst bleeding procedure you cannot have that much air in system , never the less half a jug twice, which will make it a full gallon,!
Most air that can be trapped in system is about a quart max, & that will make a rover overheat very quickly, so even if you had air pocket somewhere that coolant you lost should have been replacing the air in system, (when engine heats up & cools off a few times it gets rid of air after few cycles by itself),, unless something else goes wrong,, like letting engine over heat too much on a old set of head gaskets,
Did you replace T-stat as well,? & with what brand and temp rating,?
When you mentioned overheating, did you noticed it by trucks temp gauge or a scan gage that showed live data & to what degree,? Because if it's truck gauge, as you know it went well over 230*F, to make it move up,
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