Overheating and Head Gaskets
Hi all,
New guy here, just bought a 94 disco I. 152K miles...runs great but -
Well, its overheated already due to coolant leaking into cylinder head, blowing out exhaust......so I know its going to be a head gasket replacement. I knew this was a problem when I bought it....however...
A few questions....
When replacing the head gaskets, i am planning on:
New head gasket (duh)
Valve cover gaskets
Timing cover gasket
Valve seals
Spark Plugs
Wires
Now...is there anything else I should do in the meantime? Maybe replace the valves completely? timing chain/belt? New rings? Talking to a local parts place, he mentioned to have the radiator acid washed to clean it, perhaps have the heads machined flat again (guess they warp easily being made of Aluminium).
Anything else I need to get done while its in shreds? I am planning this for about 2 weekends from now, but would appreciate any inside info from those that may have done this to the 3.9L with Auto trans.
Regards
Ed
New guy here, just bought a 94 disco I. 152K miles...runs great but -
Well, its overheated already due to coolant leaking into cylinder head, blowing out exhaust......so I know its going to be a head gasket replacement. I knew this was a problem when I bought it....however...
A few questions....
When replacing the head gaskets, i am planning on:
New head gasket (duh)
Valve cover gaskets
Timing cover gasket
Valve seals
Spark Plugs
Wires
Now...is there anything else I should do in the meantime? Maybe replace the valves completely? timing chain/belt? New rings? Talking to a local parts place, he mentioned to have the radiator acid washed to clean it, perhaps have the heads machined flat again (guess they warp easily being made of Aluminium).
Anything else I need to get done while its in shreds? I am planning this for about 2 weekends from now, but would appreciate any inside info from those that may have done this to the 3.9L with Auto trans.
Regards
Ed
if you got the money you are on the right track but i would suggest taking a close look at your drive belt and the viscous clutch on your fan... but like anything else time and moeny
Ed, Once in ten years, I've seen a bad head gasket. Most likely a slipped cylinder liner. These engines are no longer produced. I have heard that there is a Company that resleaves them. I'll try to get a link.
Valves.
LR had many 'fixes'. BMW was the only one who 'fixed' it. It entails replacing all the valve guides and the exhaust valves. Big $$
Valves.
LR had many 'fixes'. BMW was the only one who 'fixed' it. It entails replacing all the valve guides and the exhaust valves. Big $$
Well,
the engine has 152K miles...
it is only missing the water...its a case of water dissapearing, and no leaks. The exhaust has a sweet smell, so I am guessing thats where it is going. It loses the whole reservoir over about 150 miles, and needs to be refilled. Its not smoking, although upon starting it the other day, after stopping hot, it did blow a decent white cloud - but thats only happened once. There is no water in the oil which I find a little strange, as I would expect a little to get past the rings. i just hope the head is not cracked.
Thanks for the input. i will check the cylinder sleeves when I pull the top end off.
the engine has 152K miles...
it is only missing the water...its a case of water dissapearing, and no leaks. The exhaust has a sweet smell, so I am guessing thats where it is going. It loses the whole reservoir over about 150 miles, and needs to be refilled. Its not smoking, although upon starting it the other day, after stopping hot, it did blow a decent white cloud - but thats only happened once. There is no water in the oil which I find a little strange, as I would expect a little to get past the rings. i just hope the head is not cracked.
Thanks for the input. i will check the cylinder sleeves when I pull the top end off.
regarding the valves.
I am guessing the guides are pressed into the head. Should be able to press out the guides, insert new ones, and be done. Having not had this head in my hands yet, not sure what I am up against, but pretty sure I can get a press and get them in if thats all they are. Its definitely the labor on these cars that will kill you unless you do it yourself. I may have the heads magnafluxed while they are off to check for cracks. I found a place that sells valves for about 6 bucks each....better get in touch with those guys again, as i may replace them after I inspect them for wear. I will reseat them all regardless.
Thanks for the heads up.
I am guessing the guides are pressed into the head. Should be able to press out the guides, insert new ones, and be done. Having not had this head in my hands yet, not sure what I am up against, but pretty sure I can get a press and get them in if thats all they are. Its definitely the labor on these cars that will kill you unless you do it yourself. I may have the heads magnafluxed while they are off to check for cracks. I found a place that sells valves for about 6 bucks each....better get in touch with those guys again, as i may replace them after I inspect them for wear. I will reseat them all regardless.
Thanks for the heads up.
TIB? Not sure what that is?
I am guessing they have a teflon coating (or high temp equivalent) or stellite...or some such hard slickness. Maybe I can send them to one of our mfg and get them coated. That might be cheaper, will have to check the price on the new ones, plus the coating.
Will let you know of thats an option and maybe open it up to the forum if it is. I will check the max temp on the coatings I can get and advise, but I think its 1500 deg F.
Thanks for the advise though. Also, I hear a piece of glass is good for checking flatness, with feeler gauges. Any idea what the spec is? I am guessing if you can get them in....get it resurfaced?
Ed
I am guessing they have a teflon coating (or high temp equivalent) or stellite...or some such hard slickness. Maybe I can send them to one of our mfg and get them coated. That might be cheaper, will have to check the price on the new ones, plus the coating.
Will let you know of thats an option and maybe open it up to the forum if it is. I will check the max temp on the coatings I can get and advise, but I think its 1500 deg F.
Thanks for the advise though. Also, I hear a piece of glass is good for checking flatness, with feeler gauges. Any idea what the spec is? I am guessing if you can get them in....get it resurfaced?
Ed
Unless the head is cracked which out of 8 years and a lr master i have not seen . We can do a little investivgative work very easily. All the v-8 are based on an ancient GM design, which out of the gasket only cylinders 1 5 4 and 8 have a chance of getting coolant via the gasket, the earlier idea of a slipped sleave is probably the ticket. Any cylinder when you remove the plug has a neat grey blue tone or extremly washed other then the 4 mentioned earlier he's rite. Pull the plugs my guess is 6 or 7 farthist from the return hose and the 2 galleys. you need a block e mail me i have a number of good ones as far as the heads dont replace the guides have them reamed and replace the seals that is what we are doing at the dealer
The ideas you have are on the right line. you may want to also look at doing an engine conversion to a gm 350. kits are available, and not every rover owner will kill you. the engine design is from gm. I think buick. just another option. hope it helps. gotta love a rover. duboff
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