send the motorad back

Motorad is junk.

Get the genuine Land Rover 180 Degree thermostat.

TO not heed this advice puts you in grave peril of overheating your engine
with a total junk thermostat.

I would take hammer and smash the motorad and put int in the garbage.
I would smash the motorad so that it can't get into an engine again.

but you paid good money for it so send it back.

Please get the genuine Land Rover 180 T-stat.

On my 2001 replaced

tstat
radiator with nissens.
fan clutch..

Never had a problem again. ever.

 

I just boiled it so not sure what temp it opens.

Yeah, I just pulled the radiator and it is not clogged. I ran hot water through it in the shower after I flushed the toxic coolant. I can tell the whole radiator got hot.

Yeah, I'm thinking can it be a air pocket that was there? Or can it be the water pump not pumping as it should?

I guess I'm gonna have to send the Motorad back..

fan clutch is new
radiator is fairly new
tsat - Motorad 180F is new
all new hoses

no exhaust gas in expansion tank

All I can think of at this point is bad water pump or air pocket..

 

Hi, new to this
I have overheating problem with my 02' rover 4.6 with bosh engine!! Doesn't overheat while at idle, but after short drive is does. Their is bubbling in expansion tank. Here's what I've done: replace expansion tank and cap, thermostat, all hoses, water pump, radiator, throttle body heat plate and gasket on account of a leak! I have flushed coolant system many times to try to get all air out, it has no bleed screw on the tpiece- that I see many do, I am using a cheap Walmart 50/50 coolant, however I'm leaning towards head gasket at this time to be the problem. But chemical test was negative and their is no milky oil or white smoke from exhaust! Help!! I'm fresh out of ideas, and I believe this truck is worth saving with only 106k miles!

 

first i would suggest you start a new post, each truck is slightly different.
if you have no bleeder screw how have you been try to get the air out? just hoping it will make its way to the recovery tank or are you bleeding it some other way?
you say you have replaced all the hoses and t-stat where did you get the hoses that they have no bleeder?
what type and temperature t-stat did you put in their? was it white or dark gray?

 

Replaced with white thermostat 180f, hoses and tpiece from alantic British, as far as the bleeding I have unscrewed expansion cap while letting engine cycle, and refilling with coolant as level drops. I've checked hoses while idle in gang they're semi hard but hard after short drive. I've made sure that I've cut engine off and stopped as soon as it goes in the red! I've read on another post that it could be a faulty gauge and to check IR temp of engine. A little history, before having problems truck ran right smack in the middle, overheated and replaced radiator- again ran great for about two weeks and then bam! Again overheated- so I wiggled fan n was loose- so replaced water pump and top hoses, still overheated during drive- then replaced bottom hoses , thermostat, still overheated- only during driving! Thought it must be air in the system, but after 3-4 cycles of running engine at 2k rpm and adding coolant to expansion tank as it drops- I decided it must be a leak, then I got excited to find a small leak from throttle body heat plate. So replaced that-ran again no visible leak, thought I finally cured my problem, until I drive it, it took longer but it overheated again! So I replaced expansion tank and cap, did chemical test, but no luck to a solution!! I'm having to ride bus to work, I love my truck- but this is becomming very frustrating to say the least!!

 

Sorry having trouble figuring out how to do new post!!

 

Allowing it to get in the red at all can be enough to have boiled your engine.

 

well i was just at BA site and they do have two cheap hoses that you can not tell if they have bleeder screws, but the should; they all should.

you are never going to bleed the air out hoping it will make it to the recovery tank, the main reason is the recovery tank is not the highest part of the cooling system.

two suggestion 1. get the correct hose or 2. you could try bleeding it using a cooling system pressure tester while cold, threw the upper hose on the heater core. that is how i did mine after the head gaskets and have never had a problem.

also the 180 t-stat white or dark gray?

 

Thermostat white 180f. Please excuse my ignorance, but what exactly is the heater core? Obviously I would like save money and not replaced a perfectly good hose set- next time I will replace with one that has bleeder screw. Would raising the expansion tank higher than engine help?

 

attached is a picture of a DI that has had it's heatercore by-passed as you can see by the looped heater hose, on the firewall are the two pipes that connect to the heater core itself.
if it is a white t-stat from BA then it is not oem LR, it is an aftermarket t-stat that have been known to have issues. but without bleeding the air out of the system no t-stat is going to work right.