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Overheating issue

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Old 02-20-2018, 11:54 PM
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Default Overheating issue

Sorry, i originally posted in LR2 discussion topic.

Need some help diagnosing my 2002 Disco SD .it has 130400 miles. It is having overheating issues. So far i have replaced the thermostat, the radiator, radiator cap, and upper radiator hose assembly. The oil is not milky, it gets good power, no significant oil leaks. I got this vehicle a couple of weeks ago. I was told it needed new coil packs, and the catalytic converters had burned out and been removed. I had the coil packs and cats replaced, and it drove good for a week or so, then it started overheating. The first thing i noticed was the upper hose assembly was not OEM, it did not have a relief valve, and there was a hole over the fan shroud in the hose where it looked like something was supposed to be inserted but was missing. Since air was venting and spewing coolant i replaced that with a oem upper hose assembly that came with the relief valve, at the same time i put a new thermostat and radiator cap on it. It kept overheating... after further investigation i noted that the plastic piece that protrudes from the top of the radiator had broken off, and a diy fix had been attempted. Coolant was leaking from this point. I bit the bullet and got a new radiator, and installed it. I am continuing to have overheating issues, any advice? My next step will have to be to take it to the Land Rover dealership and have them diagnose it. No local shops deal with Land Rover, so i will have to have it towed to the closest dealership about 70 miles away. And that is gonna cost about 160 just for them to look at it. Sorry for the wall of text, i want to give as much info as i can to assist in diagnosing issue. I appreciate any help in advance.
Sorry, i originally posted in LR2 discussion topic
 
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Old 02-21-2018, 01:04 AM
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Do you have heat?

Do you hear a waterfall sound coming from the heater core.

There's a possibility it isn't bled properly.

If you can't get all the air out using the lousy factory method you can try parking the truck on a hill and bleeding that way.
 
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Old 02-21-2018, 03:12 AM
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I agree, make sure there is no air in the system. Page 428 in the RAVE tells you how to do it.

Also check that once the vehicle is at operating temperature, the top hose feels hot. If it doesn’t the thermostat may be stuck closed ( happened to a buddy on a brand new thermostat). To really check it you can pull it out and pour hot water into it and visually see if it opens.
 
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Old 02-21-2018, 09:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Tito19
To really check it you can pull it out and pour hot water into it and visually see if it opens.
Yep... could be a bad thermostat straight out the box. I've had that happen before.
 
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Old 02-21-2018, 10:57 AM
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I recommend a Scangauge II or Ultragauge to monitor the live actual temps. The gauge is cold, middle, and fireball and is anything but accurate. Also make sure you grabbed a 180F thermostat.
 
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Old 02-21-2018, 06:45 PM
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Ok, couple things to check.

1st - lets make sure it is actually overheating. Get an IR temp instrument. Check ebay, amazon, harbor freight, whatever your cost and time sensitivity dictates. Shoot the heater hoses out of the manifold and the manifold discharge hose out of the engine when it is getting close to top of the gauge.

If it is not actually overheating, check to make sure the port in the top of the manifold that goes to the throttle body heater has a hose attached and is somehow routed to the expansion tank (maybe through the throttle body heater, maybe not).

2nd, if it is actually overheating (temp over 220) then check for bubbles in the expansion tank (cap off). If so, you might need to get an exhaust gas test kit to test for a blown head gasket. If not, then you might consider replacing the thermostat with a hose repair bushing and routing the top radiator hose directly to the manifold outlet. This effectively pulls the thermostat out of the system and puts coolant directly to the radiator. Since it is a new radiator we can rule out a plugged radiator.

Good luck.
 
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Old 02-21-2018, 06:50 PM
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Old 02-21-2018, 06:54 PM
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If you have not burp/blead the air out by the manual, you probably have air in the system. You need a code reader, to see if you are getting a misfire code, also I would do a compression test. I am in Washington and saw the add for that Land Rover...
 
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Old 02-21-2018, 07:32 PM
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Just in case the OP does come back to this page, there are indy LR shops within the same distance at a dealer.

Do bleed the system, Do not take it to a dealer at this point. You've already spent enough money.

Look up Biggs on the east side, Lamorna in North Seattle, and I believe there is a roving rover mobile mechanic who I hear good things about.
 
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Old 02-22-2018, 09:54 PM
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Default Thamks for the quick responses

So, i went ahead and did the air bleed procedure outlined in the RAVE manual. I can turn the vehicle on and let it sit for 30 minutes and it will read a steady normal operating temp. If i take it out and drive ir, after a half mile or so the gauge quickly rises into the red. The top hose is hot, and there is bubbling in the coolant reservoir. Could it be the water pump? I will note that yesterday, when i pulled it into the garage after the temp gauge showed overheating, i shut off the engine and then turned it back on and the engine temp gauge showed normal, today i let the engine run with the radiator cap off for about ten minutes and it started bubbling out of the reservoir. I replaced the cap and turned off engine for about two hours. I started it up, let it run for twenty minutes with no signs of overheating. I then took it around the neighborhood and it quickly started overheating. I do not see signs of leaking coolant, my exhaust smoke is not white, and my oil still dpes not show a milky color. I will have to go get a temp sensor, and i am thinking of replacing the water pump and seeing if that could fix the issue... what do you guys think?
 


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