Overheating issue
#12
02-23-2018, 05:06 AM
Pro Wrench
Warm up the truck.
Park it on a hill.
Front up on a steep incline.
Let it idle, turn the heat on, open the bleeder.
Feel the heat, is it hot? It should be very hot.
Leave the overflow jug where it sits, don't pull it out and raise the lines. These are old trucks, those lines are becoming brittle and hard from the dexcool. I already replaced mine 2 years ago when I pulled the jug out and it snapped.
I run the green coolant now, 185-199 all day long even while it idles.
Park it on a hill.
Front up on a steep incline.
Let it idle, turn the heat on, open the bleeder.
Feel the heat, is it hot? It should be very hot.
Leave the overflow jug where it sits, don't pull it out and raise the lines. These are old trucks, those lines are becoming brittle and hard from the dexcool. I already replaced mine 2 years ago when I pulled the jug out and it snapped.
I run the green coolant now, 185-199 all day long even while it idles.
#13
02-23-2018, 08:19 AM
Camel Trophy
Very unlikely it is the water pump. If you want to check disconnect the top radiator hose and rev the engine - if it pumps water out pump is good.
Idles fine, hot in 1/2 mile? Definitely sounds like a stuck thermostat. Bypass and test. Kit cost $5 at Advance.
Unlikely a blown headgasket - those take much longer to overheat, usually about 10-15 minutes. And you would have white smoke, defective o2 sensors, bubbling in the tank, hoses that were swollen, etc. You can check with the test kit from Amazon - less than $20 but does not sound like it.
Don't spend money on temp sensor yet - they rarely go out. Get an IR gun first. Double check that hose is there on the small nipple that is supposed to feed the throttle body heater - if it is not there the gauge will read incorrectly.
Idles fine, hot in 1/2 mile? Definitely sounds like a stuck thermostat. Bypass and test. Kit cost $5 at Advance.
Unlikely a blown headgasket - those take much longer to overheat, usually about 10-15 minutes. And you would have white smoke, defective o2 sensors, bubbling in the tank, hoses that were swollen, etc. You can check with the test kit from Amazon - less than $20 but does not sound like it.
Don't spend money on temp sensor yet - they rarely go out. Get an IR gun first. Double check that hose is there on the small nipple that is supposed to feed the throttle body heater - if it is not there the gauge will read incorrectly.
#14
02-23-2018, 09:28 AM
Three Wheeling
Not sure where you are in WA but Rovin Rovers is a great option in this case. Jahn is a great guy and is reasonable. I had him do an inspection for me and some other work and I can vouch for his expertise and value.
Like the others here, I would make sure the air is out of the system and the temp is what it is. Be sure to grab both heater hoses and make sure they are hot. These trucks can take several attempts to get right. It also sounds like there was some alternate hoses installed? Go to the cooling system diagram in the RAVE manual and make sure each hose is there and correctly routed.
Sounds silly but take a breath and start at the beginning and check all the obvious items. Sometimes we get too dialed in to one area and miss the entire picture. Good luck.
Like the others here, I would make sure the air is out of the system and the temp is what it is. Be sure to grab both heater hoses and make sure they are hot. These trucks can take several attempts to get right. It also sounds like there was some alternate hoses installed? Go to the cooling system diagram in the RAVE manual and make sure each hose is there and correctly routed.
Sounds silly but take a breath and start at the beginning and check all the obvious items. Sometimes we get too dialed in to one area and miss the entire picture. Good luck.
#15
02-23-2018, 10:34 AM
It idles fine, overheats in half mile,,
As said above, of course the first suspect is T-stat, air in system will also cause overheating but not that quickly,,,
What do you think a good honest mechanic should do at shop first? He will check or replace T-stat first, bleed system properly & go from there.
This is suggested to you by other members, but you haven't done it.
As said above, of course the first suspect is T-stat, air in system will also cause overheating but not that quickly,,,
What do you think a good honest mechanic should do at shop first? He will check or replace T-stat first, bleed system properly & go from there.
This is suggested to you by other members, but you haven't done it.
#16
02-23-2018, 12:27 PM
TReK
Since you are not getting any misfires,!its definitely the thermostat not opening. This case, it overheats when you run the truck a mile or two after idle. Another thing is that when your cap is off, coolant will flush out from the reservoir. If the pump not working, you wont see any activity inside the reservoir when you rev it. Often you can drive normal when the thermostat un clog itself but it will return to overheating again. While in the proccess of diagnosing the problem, you can use regular water to save on the spolled coolant. Once corrected, add concentrated coolant instead to top it.
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