Overheating problem
First Rover and post. Recently purchased a 99 Discovery II with 80k miles and have only been able to drive the truck for a week until I noticed a coolant leak from the lower coolant hose where it attaches to the water pump. I chose to replace the entire cooling system since it appeared to be original. Truck was not moving past half on temp gauge or overheating while leaking but now will overheat not leaking and cooling system refresh.
Parts replaced/installed:
Water pump, ALL cooling hoses including throttle body hoses and flange repair kit, Expansion tank and cap, Coolant temp sensor, Fan clutch (standard duty), Radiator flushed @ radiator shop...was told it was clogged by 15-20%, on 3rd thermostat...first two would not open..now currently have the 82c soft spring from Rimmer Bros. Ultra Gauge.
Followed fill and bleed procedure by the RAVE Manual. Aux fan comes on when AC is turned on and also comes on when engine reaches 210.2f according to the Ultra Gauge. Aux fan is pulling a piece of paper in when held in front of the grill while running.
The truck will overheat idling 244f, around town driving between 235-239f, and highway driving 230f
Need help with this problem and where to go next????
Parts replaced/installed:
Water pump, ALL cooling hoses including throttle body hoses and flange repair kit, Expansion tank and cap, Coolant temp sensor, Fan clutch (standard duty), Radiator flushed @ radiator shop...was told it was clogged by 15-20%, on 3rd thermostat...first two would not open..now currently have the 82c soft spring from Rimmer Bros. Ultra Gauge.
Followed fill and bleed procedure by the RAVE Manual. Aux fan comes on when AC is turned on and also comes on when engine reaches 210.2f according to the Ultra Gauge. Aux fan is pulling a piece of paper in when held in front of the grill while running.
The truck will overheat idling 244f, around town driving between 235-239f, and highway driving 230f
Need help with this problem and where to go next????
Good sir
sorri about your coing troubles
have you assures the radiators can pass air correctly ?
perhaps reverse hose with high pressure water
when the truck is hot does the large fan roar?
if so that is good
system is totally bleed?
fan belt routed correctly?
if you pull off the expansion tank cap with the engine running
does it throw out coolant continously?
hoping is. it had head gasket putting air into the system
radiator plugged 15% may put you over acceptable limits
190 * 15 percent puts you up to 240f
perhaps replace rad and call it good
cheers
j
sorri about your coing troubles
have you assures the radiators can pass air correctly ?
perhaps reverse hose with high pressure water
when the truck is hot does the large fan roar?
if so that is good
system is totally bleed?
fan belt routed correctly?
if you pull off the expansion tank cap with the engine running
does it throw out coolant continously?
hoping is. it had head gasket putting air into the system
radiator plugged 15% may put you over acceptable limits
190 * 15 percent puts you up to 240f
perhaps replace rad and call it good
cheers
j
Thank you Mike for calling and speaking with me about my problem. To answer your questions.
1. When truck is stone cold from sitting overnight the coolant level in the expansion tank is 1 1/8 from the expansion tank cap molded black seam and 2 1/2 from the top of the expansion tank cap.
2. The new fan clutch installed checked when engine is stone cold has a medium amount of resistance and when spun will turn 2 fan blades until it stops. Same test when engine is warm yielded the same exact results.
3. Checked belt routing since new belt and belt tensionor were installed at the same time as the cooling system work. The belt is routed correctly and has good tension along with grooved side of belt on grooved pulley and smooth side of belt on smooth pulley.
1. Expantion tank and cap *Uro Parts*
2. Water pump *Airtex with bronze impeller*
3. Water temperature sensor *FAE*
4. Throttle body heater flange repair kit and hoses
5. Throttle body gasket and cleaned throttle body
6. ALL Coolant hoses besides the 2 heater core hoses *Uro Parts, AMR, LR*
7. Thermostat *Carlostat* Would not open
8. Auto Zone 50/50 Green
9. Belt *Contitech*
10. Belt tensioner *Gates*
11. Engine air filter and cleaned MAF with CRC *Mann*
After this work the truck now overheats.
12. Thermostat *Carlostat* Again did not open
Still over heats
13. Radiator flush. Removed radiator and brought to radiator shop to have tested and flushed. Was told the radiator had 15-20% blockage. Had it cleaned/flushed/tested and I put back in the truck.
Still overheats
14. Thermostat *Land Rover Soft Spring from Rimmer Bros*
15. Redline Water Wetter
16. Ultra Gauge
Still overheats
17. Fan clutch *Torqflo Standard Duty*
Still overheats!!!
I assume this waterfall sound behind dash is very noticeable? It's hard to tell but I am 99% positive I do not hear this sound.
Yes. Expansion tank is full
Where can I get the $208 replacement radiator?
I will break open my end tanks on the old radiator when I receive the new one. While doing the cooling system work I did not notice and DexCool funk and when I pulled the water pump out the block had green in it but the radiator is original.
This weather is BS!!! I'm a casper white irish kat from Boston...I moved out of FL because of it years ago! Stay COOL man
!!
!!
I think it's Lucky 8, The web address is in Mikes signature, I couldn't find the rad listed in their website but a lot of members have talked about getting it from them so I presume you need to call them.


