You guys need to stop with this bleeding the system stuff. It bleeds itself, its designed that way, every car is, there is no magic. If your bottom hose is cold you have a clogged up thermostat or clogged up radiator. If the 4 holes in the metal plate on the top of the thermostat get junk in them, it will overheat.

 

So the section in the RAVE with all the steps to bleed your system of air is just extra paper to wipe your *** with, not needed?

 

I never had it on paper. I think RAVE only came as CD's. I mean, you could try to wipe your *** with the CD but it's probably hard to do.

 

The colorstat is just an aftermarket version of the regular genuine thermostat(190 deg). Also don't order the Atlantic British soft spring thermostat, you will end up with britpart box that has a motorad 180 deg thermostat. If you read around the forums a lot of us myself included have had questionable luck with these. They also don't cool nearly as well as the genuine grey 180 thermostat. I had similar overheating "issues"... Turned out it was just my temp sensor that went haywire and was running 20-40deg hotter then actual. You can check this by checking your ambiant temp sensor and coolant temp sensor temps when the vehicle is cold and make sure they are about the same.

 

Not hard to do, simply print it off the same computer you made your "Rover Master Tech" certificate on.

Seriously, don't dodge the question now.
Are you really saying that the steps that Land Rover gives you to bleed your truck are not needed? If so then I think that you have somehow managed to go completely crazy in the few months I took a break. I mean, you've always been a little out there, but I think you've finally lost it.

"You don't need to bleed any car, ever!! They all bleed themselves. Those stupid little bleed screws were just put there to trick people." For real? Is this your logic?

FYI- Stop thinking you are god's gift to Rovers. I've seen your diesel swap, not impressed.

 

A few mysteries solved by applying simple physics to the approach.

As far as bleeding the system and the waterfall noise in the passenger compartment. Lets remember that when hot/under pessure every cooling system becomes a closed system after the first time you heat it up. But when cold you can break that seal which is fine because gravity keeps the fluid levels equal thus not allowing air into the system. much the same way the trap on the sink in your house which stops methane gasses from getting into your home.

Now for why the land rover way to bleed the system is the only way to do it right and its simple.

This applys to both D1's and D2's..

If you look at a picture of the truck from the side and draw a vertical line across it at level with the top of the radiator. you will notice that both the heater core and the bleed cap sit above plane with the rest of the system.

As for the heater core and the water fall noise this is do to an air pocket that gets trapped in the part of the heater core that is above plane withth the rest of the system. That said if you have even a pin hole or loose clamp bad head gasket ETC.ETC. Air is making its way into what should be a closed system. With air getting into the system it will make its way to the top of the heater core causing the water fall noise. Most likely cause for this is a pin hole in the heater core itself which is very common for all older cars. I recommend bypassing the heater core by pulling the hoses off the fire wall and hooking them together. this will give a good idea of weather the heater core is bad or not. pin holes in the heater core can cause an over heating problem to resurface moths later after you have done tons of work and spent tons of money replacing everything else to no avail.

As far as bleeding the system you must have a bleed orafice above the radiator if you dont have the factory one in the rad hose that runs over the cowl or in the T fitting that connects the 3 hoses to the left of the AC compessor you need to get the oem parts or plumb one in to either of those locations they are clearly pointed out on diagrams in the rave just look up cooling system drain and refill.

Now for simple physics if you take a clear hose and fill it water stand at the top of a stair case and have another at the bottom with a pole to hold the hose end up to same level as the person at the top the sairs the water at both ends of the hose will be level on the same spacial plane. if you were to have a third person hold the hose up in the center to same hieght then you would have a bubble in the middle. Trust me it never fails.

Now apply this Simple theory to your cooling system if part of the heater core sits above the rest of the cooling system then you have the potential to get an air bubble in the heater core this air bubble can migrate or split into 2 or 3 or more bubbles. Now one of those bubble can migrate to the thermostat housing and get cuaght in there thus allowing the thermostat to cool down and close up on you.

So when the rave tells you to unclip the hose from the top of the cowl and open the bleeder and raise the overlow tank. that opens the system at it's highest piont and puts the over flow into a potision to gravity feed and push any air out of the system.

This was an oversite in the heater design location and can only be rectified by bleeding the system the way they tell you. Or to or bypass or relocate the heater core lower in the system.

If you can have your system pressureized and watch for leak down if it does find it. leaks dont allway present them selves by fliud spilling out some of those can actually close up as the system heats up. Remember simple physics when thins get hot they expand thus closing gaps. but when the system cools down it can suck air in. Which common sense tells me is the cuase of alot of overheating and cooling system problems withese cars.

Last but not least use THE ORANGE COOLANT I cannot stress this enough. These are all aluminum motors and having owned BMW's before. Remember these motors were originally desinged and built by bosch. Which are most notable for there formula1 engines. that saud they are way over engineered for a utility aplication so treat the motor like its from a porsche or beemer. To get the performace specs they were looking for in an SUV the engine runns hotter and the orange coolant is desined to haddle that heat and keap the motor at its safe running temperature. The green stuff does not do it. remember these motors were disined by race engineers so the normal peramitters do not apply.


I hope this helps. I love this forum it has been supper helpful so I hope this helps others understand the cooling sytem better.

 

if 2 mouths ago you replaced the stat and it ran fine for 2 months and your not losing coolant go out and replace your thermostat again with a 180 and get yourself a ultra gage, also chage your coolant from the red stuff to green , i did this 3 years ago and been runing well at steady 194 degrees
there has been so many topics here about thermostats
get the 180 asap your you gonna kill it

 

Well dear sir, I have worked on hundreds of disco's, and have never read the cooling system bleed procedure in rave. Being that I'm not retarded, and like most people, I understand that liquid is heavier than air and eventually makes its way to the bottom, so that If you raise your container of liquid higher than the highest point that air can get trapped, the air will quickly find it's way out of the system. You and like 3 other people on this forum cant seem to grasp simple physics and rely on instructions word for word lest roverjesus smite you down for blasphemy. You say "For your information" - and then tell me to stop thinking I'm God's gift to rovers. That's not information, that's you telling me not to do something. I really don't care what you think about my awesome diesel BenzRover, I drive it every day, it's rad as hell, and everyone loves it. The facts of the matter are, his truck has a clogged radiator or a clogged thermostat, (If it was not properly bled it would have overheated right away, not 2 f'in weeks later) and you're an idiot. Now go back to licking stamps and let people who actually know how to fix cars help people fix cars.

 

Well I just flip my truck over on its top to bleed the system
I guess you guys overlooked that little trick

 

You aren't on here to help people fix there car, you are just on here to advertise your little chop shop. That's why you pop into new threads and make 1 post, so your phone number is plastered all over the forum. Everything from your user name to your signature was designed to try and make you money. Stop pretending you are here to "help" people.

Stamps taste good by the way.

Here is a BBB complaint from one of your satisfied customers, Keep up the great work

Complaint: I paid this company to change the motor out in my car and get the car running. I paid $1,200.00 to the owner ********* ***** who was to provide these services. When I was told to pick up my car the power steering was cut and it was working when I dropped it off. The car was given back to me in pieces to which he told me he "didn't have time to finish fixing it". I told him I refused to take the car because the motor was not running correctly and it was not safe to drive without power steering to which he refused to do anymore work to the vehicle. I decided to go pick up the car because he was forced to close the Long Branch shop where this took place before his move to Wall and he locked the car in a gated lot and refused to give it to me if I did not give him another $300.00. I am not out $1,500.00 and a not drivable car. He refused any and all receipts that I asked for. I have now had another mechanic look at the car and I have been informed that it seems that the motor that he put in is a bad motor. He released an unsafe vehicle into my custody, did not proved the services that were paid for, refuses to return my money and extorted me for another $300.00 on top of the $1200.00 and the excuse he gave me is "I don't have time to finish it". I need this matter resolved.

Consumer Complaints for 5 Corners Auto Repair - BBB serving New Jersey