I'd be interested in getting a little more info here. I also doubt my problem is exhaust leak related. Within the last 8 months the manifolds have been taken off and put back with new gaskets, the y-pipe has been dropped and installed new studs and new gaskets between y-pipe and manifolds, cats have been cut out and new ones welded in, same with center muffler. The only connection that is air tight would be after the center muffler where the rear exhaust connects with 3 studs/bolts.

Anyways, back to the current philosophy = ECU. What are my options here?
I'm guessing I need to get it hooked up to testbook to confirm that its leaving the heater on until killing it, THEN (if proven to be the issue) I can simply have them Re-MAP the ECU to resolve this issue? Or Re-PROGRAM it?

Or will I need I new (or properly functioning used) ECU and have that one re-programmed to work with my car?

Thanks in advance.
DIIB

 

Ok. So I got my truck hooked up to a much better scanner to get some more info, here's the results and my questions to follow:

*I still have the same two codes: P0134 and P0154 (bank1sens1, bank2,sens) "no activity".
*The scanner showed this to be true with readings of .45 or .045 (forget) from both front o2 sensors with no movement or "no activity". This makes sense as according to the RAVE if the ECU isn't getting readings from the sensors, it will run the truck in the default setting which is .45 or .045 for the o2 sensors - which is the equivalent of OPEN LOOP which the trucks runs when cold to get more fuel in when it needs it. This also explains why I am getting worse than usual gas mileage as it keeps the truck in open loop full time therefore dumping more fuel in then necessary once the truck is warmed up - hench 8-10mpg's on average.
*The heater element in both o2 sensors are actually working. I draw this conclusion from seeing the live readings from the heater element. I would assume this wouldn't happen if they weren't working. This is new news as I thought the heater element was causing the issues before.

So, i've gone through 3 new sets of o2 sensors from Atlantic British, who has been great to work with and supplied the 2 sets shipped for free when I told them that the new ones weren't functioning properly.
I've come to the conclusion that these non-OEM sensors just aren't working or taking properly with my truck, so i'm going OEM now unless someone else wants to chime in and tell me i'm wrong or should check something else first.

Unless directed otherwise, I'm going to order 2 new OEM O2 sensors from British Parts of Utah, which will show up in the nice white/green LR box.
Hopefully this solves my issues, restores my proper MPG's, and has me codeless for the first time since purchase.

Thanks in advance, DIIB

 

Brandon,

I am surprised that DiscoMike did not jump in but he always says "only run OEM O2 sensors". He is so specific about it that I'm sure there is a good reason for it.

 

I'm surprised nobody asked me that before either. I had heard Mike and others say they have heard of people having issues with sets from AB, but I figured they just meant a bad set here and there, not that 3 sets in a row will all be bad and not work so go OEM only. Oh well.

Though if this is the root cause of all my frustration, you can bet I will be yelling it on here every chance I get! Stay tuned.

 

Come on Sunshine!!! NO going cheap on parts.

NTK or NGK (same thing) 25624 is for the DII

That is the real deal B-real.

Pay your club dues slacker.

 

Dammit, I didn't KNOW I was going cheap since the AB sensors cost the same and they are pretty safe to order most parts from! I'm still learning...

And I appreciate your persistence, will I get a sticker?

 

Not sayin AB O2's are cheap, in fact I don't know what they are using these days... I'm just saying the NTK 25624 IS the tried and true correct replacement.

DII - NTK 25624
DI and RRC running on the 14cux EFI (1995 and earlier) - NTK 25016
DI w/o AEL - NTK 25017
DI with AEL - NTK 25044


And yes you can have a handful of stickers, a club t-shirt with a map on the back in case you get lost out at Richloam and I'll help you get the plug off your window lift ECM!!

 

Well, my mistake was assuming AB was selling the right stuff.
P.S. You're going to regret offering to get the plug off my window lift ECU...that SOB.

 

What's the update? Did switching to OEM solve the problem of no activity?

 

Woah cowboy woah.
You can't soak the O2 sensors in raw gasoline.
you kidding?

That ruins them.
They can't soak in anything.

You need to replace those O2 sensors with new ones.
And don't give the new ones a soak.

Sorry to sound harsh, but I am trying to help you out.
Raw gas wrecks the o2 sensors.
Antifreeze wrecks them really fast.
Oil does too.