I thought I had all the loose ends covered with this thing. Then driving home from town and the car RPMs hit 0 and no power. Pulled off and my ultragauge has a pending p0174 solo code with the oil and batt light lit.

Cranks but won't turn over. Crank Pos. Sensor is maybe 2k miles on it, coil and wires 4k. It was raining today but the air filter was dry.

Reading on here oil can interfere with the 02 sensors and I do have oil buildup on all new sensors about 4k ago. So I may de-grease the connections but its been that way for a long long time with no issues prior.

MAF unplugged and it wouldn't run without to a pre-mapped code. Fuel tank is 1/4th as well. Started to head up small incline when it did die.

In the driveway a few hours later, still no start. She wants to go but no fuel.

So MAF, fuel pump and or filter?, sensors? Where do I start

at 164k miles now btw '99, no SAI

 

The situation sure does sound like a bad crank position sensor. Are you sure you got the new one plugged back in all the way? I would start by checking the crank position plug for oil and that it is plugged in all the way.

Have you checked to see if you have spark?

I've been hearing that if you watch the rpm's on a scanner while cranking the engine and the rpm's read "0", it's a bad crank position sensor.

Also, if your O2 plugs are covered in oil I would take the time to clean them just in case it's related.

 

CPS was done by a shop as I could not get to it myself. Ive logged about 2k miles since then with it and a winter. My symptoms and codes are completely different from the bad CPS before but I will check it out.

As a new note I have been checking all hoses and vac system components and I am finding only small things. Fixing clogs and old clamps etc and cleaning out things. I also could see water spatter marks on the airbox past the filter well within range of the sensor. I think I may have fried the mass air sensor by simply driving it in rain and having a kinda beat up splash guard. I assume water vs. sensor is the cause so far...

You'd think unplugging it would start it up though like any other auto, still nada

 

These trucks will run with the maf out so, your problem may be elsewhere.

I would start the troubleshooting process by first checking to see if you have spark at the plugs and fuel at the rail.

And just for the ease of it, have you checked your inertia/rollover switch on the passenger side firewall? press the reset button on top of it (round about the size of a quarter). if it triggers it disables the fuel pump.

 

Check if spark plug is wet or dry.

 

Well the MAF with no fuel from a bad pump still means there is a bad pump, so I totally agree with you. It should run like any other car I have worked on without the MAF hooked up.

I cleaned PCV, oil seperator, and IACV and put new clamps on everything and checked for leakage. Hand a friend turn my key and I heard no fuel prime from the pump with my ear against the carpet above the tank. He cranked it then nothing. I cranked it and about 3-4 times in a row, after seperate cranks/key turns, it would revv to 2000rpms and sputter sputter sputter mayyybe recover to idle then die. She would run a maximum of 30 seconds each time firing right up. Literally feels like fuel starving. Pedal did nothing to help.

I did inertia switch for the heck of it too several times and nothing significant to report.

No codes are being thrown right now, but CEL is lit. No pending or active.

I did wipe down one 02 sensor that had grease near it.

I cleaned the airbox out completely last night and sprayed the MAF with cleaner. Dryed over night.

 

Well if it fires up for 30 seconds, I guess you're getting spark. Have you checked for spark from several plugs on each side of the engine to be sure both coils are firing?

and since it runs for a 30 seconds, it's getting some fuel... maybe not holding pressure or delivering the correct pressure.

Could be the pump like you said but, if it were totally dead or not pumping any when key is switched on, don't seem like it would start and run for even 30 seconds. Maybe once or twice until any fuel it may get from the rail is used up and then shouldn't start at all. Sounds more like it's pumping but then loosing pressure quickly if it's a fuel problem.

If you have a fuel pressure test gauge, check to see if you have pressure at the rail.

If you don't have a test gauge, you should be able to borrow one from autozone, but you'll have to pay for it up front and then they will refund all of your money when you return it.

Be sure to get the large test kit with all of the adapters so that it will have an adapter to fit your schrader valve. or if they don't have the large kit, check that the one they do have for loan will fit a standard tire valve stem. It's the same size as the fuel schrader.

 

I was going to test the rail pressure but I tried something else since I have to wait for a friend to even get that stuff from autozone.

So I got down to the pump today and the rusted cover to it. Unplugged everything from the pump except the fuel line and the car still runs the same aka start, sputter sputter,idle, sputter, die under any pedal or demand. Oddly did this several times and I assumed the pressure would have been gone by the 4th try. Is there that much left over pressure?

I'm assuming there is a natural vacuum of fuel in the lines and if the truck is starting up, it is literally pulling that fuel from the tank by itself and the pump must be dead. I have the 2 plug unit so unfortunately Atlantic at 400 bucks is the cheapest I can find at the moment.

kinda bizarre if you ask me that it would even run like that. Am I missing something here?

btw tested again with a friend, ZERO pump noise on key turns

 

Maybe so, about pulling enough fuel on its own to run just a little? I would have never guessed it but, could be since it's only running a few seconds.

If the pump is dead then it's dead. But you should take a meter and check for power at the fuel pump wiring/connector and see if it is getting power to the pump when you switch on the key. You may have to get a friend to switch the key while you watch the meter since it only cycles for a few seconds at first. I would check that for sure before buying a pricey pump.

I'm trying to remember how that works. It seems like on some vehicles, not sure if all, when you first switch on the key in the morning after a long sit, then the pump cycles to build up pressure, but if the system already has pressure like if you switch it off and then right back on the pump may not cycle since it is already up to pressure. So it would be good if you had someone to switch on the key while you listen or check for voltage on the first try of the day.

I'm sure you said but, without going back to see, did you check the fuse and the relay for the fuel? You could swap the relay with another one next to it that is the same to test if it's a relay.

Too bad you don't have a friend with a truck nearby that you could take his pump and stick in yours to see what you get.

Do you have any u-pulls around? if so you could probably get a fuel pump for cheap. maybe $25? Not sure what they get for them as all are different.

You also may be able to do some searching and see if you can find any info on replacing just the pump and using your housing.

I know I have read of some changing out just the actual pump on these. I've did that on chevy but never had to on LR.

Maybe someone else will chime in with more info as far as that goes.

Anyway, I'm not much help but, just throwing anything out there that comes to mind to try to help.

 

Could be a dirty or failing MAF sensor. Could try cleaning the MAF first.