p0174 CEL and towed home... advice needed
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Three Wheeling
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 61
Likes: 0
From: Milwaukee, WI
If the pump is dead then it's dead. But you should take a meter and check for power at the fuel pump wiring/connector and see if it is getting power to the pump when you switch on the key. You may have to get a friend to switch the key while you watch the meter since it only cycles for a few seconds at first. I would check that for sure before buying a pricey pump.
I'm sure you said but, without going back to see, did you check the fuse and the relay for the fuel? You could swap the relay with another one next to it that is the same to test if it's a relay.
Too bad you don't have a friend with a truck nearby that you could take his pump and stick in yours to see what you get.
Do you have any u-pulls around? if so you could probably get a fuel pump for cheap. maybe $25? Not sure what they get for them as all are different.
I'm sure you said but, without going back to see, did you check the fuse and the relay for the fuel? You could swap the relay with another one next to it that is the same to test if it's a relay.
Too bad you don't have a friend with a truck nearby that you could take his pump and stick in yours to see what you get.
Do you have any u-pulls around? if so you could probably get a fuel pump for cheap. maybe $25? Not sure what they get for them as all are different.
Pick n pull here just crushed the one rover I used for stuff, the next is 50 miles away. Ebay has a few pump assemblies from semi low mileage cars but I really don't want to experience this again any time soon. I do tow and Id hate to try to do this again during a winter or something. I've heard mixed reviews about pump kits being shotty at high RPMs, over working the pump and causing failures. Anyone have more say on this? Or Recommendations?
Swapped relays, yes, going to swap fuses just for good measure even though it looked good. I will meter the pump too for indication of on signal. I will try to get my buddy to listen tomorrow on first key turn. On my other autos I always heard the pump prime every time regardless of pressure, but best to rule that out.
MAF has been cleaned out with mass sensor CRC cleaner, vac lines checked and cleaned pretty heavily, one time crap clamps replaced with new tight ones. Unplugged the MAF Sensor and got a code for it today noticing drop in voltage to see if the limp mode fuel map would kick in (it didn't for my 3rd try), plugged it back in, made zero difference on how the truck operated either way.
Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 1,125
Likes: 24
Well sounds like you are a good troubleshooter and coming at it from all angles. next up, make sure you are getting power to the pump and if no power coming into the pump then you will know it is upstream from there and you can look elsewhere and not have to buy a pricey pump.
If no power is getting to the pump then it's sounding more like something else. Maybe the crank sensor again. But, I thought when the crank sensor died it killed fuel and spark and not just fuel? and sounds like you are getting some spark. But maybe it's not a total go and no-go with the CPS and they die slowly still working some but not 100%?
so first eliminate power getting back to the pump with a meter. if you are getting power and the pump is not working it's the pump, and if you are not getting power coming into the pump it's not the pump. then you can go from there.
I know Jared suggested the CPS and I have read the same about if no RPM while cranking the engine then maybe CPS or CPS connection.
You are looking at the fuel pump but, if the CPS is out then it is my understanding that the fuel pump will not work, although I'm not sure if that would kill the fuel pump or power to fuel pump totally?
Maybe Drowssap, Jared, RoverTech, OffroadFrance, Dusty1, Pinkytoe69, or one of the regulars will see this and chime in with more angles to look at.
If no power is getting to the pump then it's sounding more like something else. Maybe the crank sensor again. But, I thought when the crank sensor died it killed fuel and spark and not just fuel? and sounds like you are getting some spark. But maybe it's not a total go and no-go with the CPS and they die slowly still working some but not 100%?
so first eliminate power getting back to the pump with a meter. if you are getting power and the pump is not working it's the pump, and if you are not getting power coming into the pump it's not the pump. then you can go from there.
I know Jared suggested the CPS and I have read the same about if no RPM while cranking the engine then maybe CPS or CPS connection.
You are looking at the fuel pump but, if the CPS is out then it is my understanding that the fuel pump will not work, although I'm not sure if that would kill the fuel pump or power to fuel pump totally?
Maybe Drowssap, Jared, RoverTech, OffroadFrance, Dusty1, Pinkytoe69, or one of the regulars will see this and chime in with more angles to look at.
Last edited by RicketyTick; Sep 9, 2014 at 09:09 AM.
Thread Starter
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Three Wheeling
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 61
Likes: 0
From: Milwaukee, WI
Just a follow up as I find that many posts in search sometimes never had them and it is frustrating.
Seems the pump refused to work at the posted 1/4th tank on the fuel gauge and the fuel gauge was off by 1/8th of a tankish for an unknown reason (worn float sending unit?). There was enough fuel in the tank when I pulled the old pump to submerge half the pump but it wouldn't hold pressure. The truck initially died on an incline so if I was really at 1/8th of a tank and it sloshed it could technically kill the truck.
I put the new pump in and I would suggest for anyone who is going to attempt the feat to 100% fit the new seal (if you have one) to the tank seal and plastic ring itself and slide the pump through the seal. Spent 40 minutes cussing until I got this right.
The new pump when key primed several times didn't make noise. The truck sensor on the new pump showed 0 fuel even though I could see probably about 3 gallons-ish inside towards the bottom. I put some spare fuel I had in and it began to run. Went and topped it off and she runs fine.
I would argue if you are having the same issue as me the float and measuring mechanism is faulty, however it basically is a part of the pump enclosure.
Due the the age of my truck, my towing need, and overall concern with the fuel pump possibly acting up on lower tanks I opted to replace. Chances are my pump is not dead but the gauge was incorrectly reading, pump overheating, or symptoms of both.
I replaced from Atlantic British, they sent a broken float in a sealed box on the first pump from land rover but sent another pump and checked it before sending the second time. Be sure to examine your float, it should not turn and have no chips or bits of foam in the box/plastic wrap with it. If it does you may not get any fuel level reading. Luckily I had a BMW break a float retention clip 2 years ago and I noticed the issue.
check your type of tank pump first hand, there are 2 types
Seems the pump refused to work at the posted 1/4th tank on the fuel gauge and the fuel gauge was off by 1/8th of a tankish for an unknown reason (worn float sending unit?). There was enough fuel in the tank when I pulled the old pump to submerge half the pump but it wouldn't hold pressure. The truck initially died on an incline so if I was really at 1/8th of a tank and it sloshed it could technically kill the truck.
I put the new pump in and I would suggest for anyone who is going to attempt the feat to 100% fit the new seal (if you have one) to the tank seal and plastic ring itself and slide the pump through the seal. Spent 40 minutes cussing until I got this right.
The new pump when key primed several times didn't make noise. The truck sensor on the new pump showed 0 fuel even though I could see probably about 3 gallons-ish inside towards the bottom. I put some spare fuel I had in and it began to run. Went and topped it off and she runs fine.
I would argue if you are having the same issue as me the float and measuring mechanism is faulty, however it basically is a part of the pump enclosure.
Due the the age of my truck, my towing need, and overall concern with the fuel pump possibly acting up on lower tanks I opted to replace. Chances are my pump is not dead but the gauge was incorrectly reading, pump overheating, or symptoms of both.
I replaced from Atlantic British, they sent a broken float in a sealed box on the first pump from land rover but sent another pump and checked it before sending the second time. Be sure to examine your float, it should not turn and have no chips or bits of foam in the box/plastic wrap with it. If it does you may not get any fuel level reading. Luckily I had a BMW break a float retention clip 2 years ago and I noticed the issue.
check your type of tank pump first hand, there are 2 types
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