Chasing the 441 code. Took elect connection off purge valve and the hose off manifold and blew into it to check if stuck open. (No power should be closed). Was closed. Ohm check across 2 connectors was 28 ohm. (26-29 is good). Removed valve. Hooked up small alligator clips to valve terminals and to batt (uses 12v power). Valve opened although delayed. Blew into valve again when powered to open. Was very difficult and just a small exit of air. The only way to properly clean this valve is to trip it open then spray the hell out of it, which I did. Arrow on valve points direction of flow. Electric contact cleaner is what I used. Need to fill up valve the blow hard into valve. Lots of black/brown junk came out did this 4-5 times until liquid was clear. Now when blowing through much easier. Valve opens/closes much faster. Installed with hose clamps.. Will see if code stays away....hopes this helps someone save $300.......Also when tightening gas cap if you put some downward pressure on it, it tightens better, few more lbs of torque. Sucked on end of gas cap and I believe poppet valve was sticking a bit as first suck was much harder than next ones. .Contact cleaned that too......

 

A new purge valve is only like $35 at autozone. (OEM: 28910-22040 | Canister Purge Valve | AutoZone.com) Not sure who told you $300.

I had problems with the aftermarket gas cap I had also. I bought a Genuine land rover one and it goes on and off with no problems now. If yours isn't original then I bet that's your problem.

Here is a link to my thread with the AutoZone Part# >>>> https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...e-valve-52821/




_________________________________________