P38 ownership in the context of a Disco 2?
I picked up this gem for $450 on Friday. It runs and drives it has a host of issues but so far not terrible to sort. However the code scanner is not it’s friend so the info it puts out needs a bit of translation.
That being said I have a soft spot for the P38 I have always loved the look. The D2 is likely a better built truck with less electrical gremlins
That being said I have a soft spot for the P38 I have always loved the look. The D2 is likely a better built truck with less electrical gremlins
Last edited by ArmyRover; Feb 9, 2025 at 09:45 PM.
In my opinion, LR3s are the best all around LRs you can get. More reliable in my case, smoother ride, better mileage (16mpg +), and easier to drive. They are slightly bigger than a D2, but have PLENTLY of space for 5-7 people, depending on the spec. When I was a kid, my dad hauled me and my 2 younger sisters everywhere in it.
Now a D2 and LR3 combo is the best there is! Can fill pretty much any role except a fuel economy car.
Now a D2 and LR3 combo is the best there is! Can fill pretty much any role except a fuel economy car.
TReK
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 2,782
Likes: 628
From: NYC
I bought a P38 in the summer of 2021 having only owned a D1 prior. Given your experience with LR's, the concepts LR employed, where to find parts, where to find answers, who's answers to truly believe because they work on the trucks daily, what parts can be purchased used, and what diagnostic gear you need, I think you could handle it easily.
For example, I can source an driver door latch (notorious for the microswitches going bad) for <$100 new because I read and search forums and have a sense of which participant provides good info. I also reach out to people in DM's when I want to drill down on something they wrote and don't want the peanut gallery to pollute a thread.
Since you know D2's you know what will need replacement or maintenance in the drivetrain/axles. The list is long. Same for electronics. Heck, I've had trouble finding a coolant temp sensor that is accurate, allows the gauge on the dash to function, and doesn't throw a code when comparing temps to the unit at the bottom of the radiator. Little stuff can drive you nuts.
And them you really need to plan for blend motor replacement and heater core o-ring replacement. You'll want to be willing to tear apart the HEVAC display (not difficult, but not something everyone wants to do).
You can handle any of it, but as they say "you make your money on a car when you buy it, not when you sell it".
Like any used vehicle, plan for worst, hope for the best.
I'm happy to answer any specific questions you have. Hit me on DM if you like.
Here is my build thread....
https://landroverforums.com/forum/bu...01-p38-106739/
For example, I can source an driver door latch (notorious for the microswitches going bad) for <$100 new because I read and search forums and have a sense of which participant provides good info. I also reach out to people in DM's when I want to drill down on something they wrote and don't want the peanut gallery to pollute a thread.
Since you know D2's you know what will need replacement or maintenance in the drivetrain/axles. The list is long. Same for electronics. Heck, I've had trouble finding a coolant temp sensor that is accurate, allows the gauge on the dash to function, and doesn't throw a code when comparing temps to the unit at the bottom of the radiator. Little stuff can drive you nuts.
And them you really need to plan for blend motor replacement and heater core o-ring replacement. You'll want to be willing to tear apart the HEVAC display (not difficult, but not something everyone wants to do).
You can handle any of it, but as they say "you make your money on a car when you buy it, not when you sell it".
Like any used vehicle, plan for worst, hope for the best.
I'm happy to answer any specific questions you have. Hit me on DM if you like.
Here is my build thread....
https://landroverforums.com/forum/bu...01-p38-106739/
Last edited by WaltNYC; Feb 10, 2025 at 11:31 AM.
TReK
Joined: Sep 2020
Posts: 2,957
Likes: 754
From: British Columbia Canada
ArmyRover that’s great! What scanner do you have? My Nanocom works well on mine. And before I got the Nano I used RSW which also worked well on mine I’m not sure if RSW is still available or not.
I would say the P38 is a much better built vehicle than the D2, but with more electronic gremlins. As Walt said, you won’t have trouble sorting it out.
I would say the P38 is a much better built vehicle than the D2, but with more electronic gremlins. As Walt said, you won’t have trouble sorting it out.
Jag motor L322 is the best 3rd Gen truck there is. I have had a few LR3s they are fine but, a Supercharged L322 is a magnificent place to be.
ArmyRover that’s great! What scanner do you have? My Nanocom works well on mine. And before I got the Nano I used RSW which also worked well on mine I’m not sure if RSW is still available or not.
I would say the P38 is a much better built vehicle than the D2, but with more electronic gremlins. As Walt said, you won’t have trouble sorting it out.
I would say the P38 is a much better built vehicle than the D2, but with more electronic gremlins. As Walt said, you won’t have trouble sorting it out.
I need to start my own thread on this fine piece of British engineering and get out of Brandon’s thread lol
Last edited by ArmyRover; Feb 12, 2025 at 07:18 AM.
I went with non-supercharged just for simplicity and making it that much easier to work on. Was really hard to find actually, most of them out there are the SC version.