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Pain, suffering and wheel sensors

Old Apr 6, 2014 | 06:59 PM
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Default Pain, suffering and wheel sensors

I spent 8hrs today working on the Rover. My primary goal was to replace the right rear wheel sensor. I finished it, took it down the road after resetting the codes and bam, right back on.

This was a solder in which I did in the passenger footwell.

Continuity shows about the same on all 4 of the sensors at the plug.

The wheel bearing was good, not sure on the splines inside, as it was filled with grease...

Help! What do I try now?

Dave
 
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Old Apr 6, 2014 | 07:24 PM
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Are you replacing parts based on a guess or did you actually have someone with a rover specific abs code reader pull the codes for you?

That being said, I've had a sensor go off because I had a stuck caliper before and warped/pitted rotors or even a bad quality pad could set it off.
 
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Old Apr 6, 2014 | 07:28 PM
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or greased up disc or bad hub. personally, if I had code to one side, I'd swap hub with one of the others
 
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Old Apr 6, 2014 | 08:05 PM
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Originally Posted by br0keit
Are you replacing parts based on a guess or did you actually have someone with a rover specific abs code reader pull the codes for you?

That being said, I've had a sensor go off because I had a stuck caliper before and warped/pitted rotors or even a bad quality pad could set it off.
Calipers are recent, as well as rotors and pads -- all the high quality stuff.

I'm not guessing - I've got an ABS amigo and the AutoCOM setup. It's definitely the right rear sensor. Just not sure why. I'll have to pull out the hub next and see if I can see anything wrong with the tone ring/grease. Maybe I'll try another hub back there next.

Dave
 
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Old Apr 6, 2014 | 08:13 PM
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Was the old sensor in tact? Did it appear to have any wear on it? Where did you get the new sensor? The cheap ones I have seen DOA.
 
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Old Apr 6, 2014 | 08:32 PM
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Haven't done this repair yet, but have been researching it for when I do soon. Ive seen people say you have to put gear lube on the end of the sensor or in the hole it goes in after cleaning it out to make them read correctly. Maybe someone who's done it can elaborate a little.
 
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Old Apr 7, 2014 | 06:31 AM
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It was a cheapo sensor - ordered from Lucky8's ebay store, so it could in fact, be bad. I did put grease on the end of the sensor before putting it in -- as I had heard of this being an issue as well. The previous sensor came out nicely, intact, much to my surprise.

Anyone have an ohm meter to test their resistances at the connector, or even better -- knowledge of what an 'in spec' range sensor can read for resistance? Perhaps it's in the rave, I'll take a look there.

Dave
 
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Old Apr 7, 2014 | 08:11 PM
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After I replaced the front sensors on my p38 Rangie the lights stayed on. I was burnt down about it... However I did decide to drive it down the road before I returned the cheapo sensors I had ordered from Hong Kong and to my suprise once I got up to about 40mph all the lights went off and havn't came back yet. (Borrat voice)"Great Success!"
 
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Old Apr 9, 2014 | 02:31 PM
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Update:

This one is a little bit of pride eating... As Ron White has stated... you can't fix stupid.

When I started in on my sensor nonsense, I knew from last fall that I had an intermittent front left, and a failed rear right.

When I ordered the sensors, I got both...

The sensors that showed were a short wired one with factory plugs. The other was a long solder in style.

I overnight'd a new rear sensor and swapped it out last night, re soldering the line. This was a much quicker process the 2nd time!

Cleared the codes, fired it up, drove it 20 yards down the road and boom, right back on. Continued my driving to the store and came back, back in the garage... cleared codes again and brought it back in the house to pull the logs off the abs amigo.

To my delight, the 2nd sensor worked, error gone for the right rear! Awesome! Front left now failing. Not surprised, that's why I ordered the other!

I went back in the house thinking well, I've got the short front sensor to do, perhaps tomorrow night. What if that one's bad too? Perhaps I'll overnight another one for the front to solder in. I'll see how much cheaper it is for the front than the rear...

It hits me like a train - Part numbers... are backwards! The one I put in the back the first time is actually for the front! - I'm suddenly refreshed on my stupidity, and start laughing... There were a whole bunch of rubber doo-dads on the sensor wire. I cut most of them off thinking well, obviously this sensor fits a few different trucks with abs... and then it was too short to get into the cab by about 2' - I thought that was odd, but no biggie, soldered in an extension too................. you FOOL!

So tonight, I'll be attempting the front sensor, with the ACTUAL front sensor...

I'm amazed by how easily just a single moment or decision in life can cause such chaos!

Feeling a bit dumb, but hopefully someone else will glean some insight to my mistake! The part numbers are very close - You have been warned!!!

Dave
 
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Old Apr 9, 2014 | 03:12 PM
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Quite honestly, I find Land Rover's solution to problems with the inline connectors to be a trifle odd. The technology exists to make strong, waterproof connections that work in far harsher environments than a LR sees. These are widely used on boats : heat shrinked butt connectors :

http://www.amazon.com/Ancor-Electric...ated-Adhesive-
Connectors/dp/B000S2040G

and if you really want to go belt and braces, there's adhesive-lined heat shrink.
 
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