Filling them while level is what you are supposed to do, but I have a hard time fitting under the truck that way. I like having the extra room to move around.

My truck does not leak even with the diffs and t-case slightly overfull.

 

Ok...

I thought it was important to get a Baseline for the Gas Mileage before I did this extensive 60k service..
Filled tank with Premium Fuel last week..
Drove 117 City Miles
Filled up today, requiring 7 gallons of Fuel.

Quick Math

16.7 MPG !!!!
I am actually Amazed..
Nearly 17 MPG in a 15 year old Land Rover.. I am very, very pleased.

 

You need to run it until the low fuel light comes on, then fill up, do this three times and then take your average of the three.

The MPG in a Rover is not as bad as people think as long as you drive smart.
I have gotten 24mpg expressway on a long trip.
We just drove 389 miles on one tank of fuel over Christmas break.

 

Bled the Brakes today...
Flushing out the old fluid and replacing with new synthetic fluid. I even managed to purge a little air in the process, not much but I did see a couple bubbles during the process. The old fluid was definatly Dark...



I noticed some Oil around the bottom of the (coilovers??) today, and was curious..
The vehicle rides very well, but is this oil from the strut or shock or whatever its called?? When it comes time to replace these, how much of a P.I.T.A is it?? Ive done shocks before, but never a coilover, or something that is engineered to such a degree as the Disco.. I mean all the parts seem to be massive, they built these things to fall off of buildings!!



Also I noticed the Brake Pads were a looking a little thin, but I am not going to replace them until I order and recieve the specialty Brake Clamp shown in the Rave Manual..



Do you guys have any suggestions regarding the Brand of Brake Pads???

 

You do NOT need that special brake clamp, a $3 C-clamp from the Home Depot will do the exact same job. That is all I use, been doing it that way for 100's of years, brake shops use C-clamps too.
You def need new shocks, your seals are shot and they are leaking fluid.
I did mine no problem, you will need a pipe wrench or large channel locks to keep the front shocks from turning when you loosen the bottom nut.
The rears are easy. The fronts take longer.
I bought my shocks from AutoZone, I bought Gabriel shocks. $120? for all four. Lifetime warrenty.
Not only were these trucks built to drive off cliff's, they were built to pull houses off their foundations.

 

Ok I was concerned that the clamp that I use for doing brakes wouldnt fit between the Rotor and the Caliper.. most of the brakes Ive had were not the kind that you can change while the caliper is still on the spindle.. Possibly just need to get a smaller clamp that will fit.. but looking at those rotors makes me want to turn them.. they dont shudder but I still think about it... I should just change the pads and be done with it.. I can get a little obsessive about this kind of stuff..

As far as pulling down houses.. Thats Good...

Pancho <- Carpenter

Recomendation on Brake Pad Manufacturer????

 

You cannot turn Rover rotors, so dont even try.
As for which brakes, go to www.atlanticbritish.com and pick what you can afford.

Now, how in the hell do you copy a page off of the RAVE CD and post it on the forum?

 

I will Post a little "How To"

 

Link to the How work with Screenshots Thread

 

Ok replacing the coolant, and besides the issue of the difficulty getting my hands to the plugs on the block..

I have also discovered the Thremostat is a little diffrent, the aftermarket thermostat doesnt have the "Jiggle/Vent" hole..



What exactly does the "Jiggle/Vent" hole do? Is the piece of plastic intended to melt off of the engine reaches an extremely high temperature?? Or is this just a way for the engine to keep pressures in the cooling system equalized when the engine is cool??

Anyhow.. Do I need to find a Thermostat with this feature or will with aftermarket one do???