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Parts Changed, Still Showing Codes? Help!

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  #21  
Old 08-06-2019, 11:37 AM
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Update 8/6

I got the OEM Hyundai purge vale installed. Here is a list of what has been replaced, just to catch everyone up:

- New NGK Platinum spark plugs (gapped to .038")
- New Bosch Mass Air Flow Sensor
- New crankshaft position sensor
- New camshaft position sensor
- 4 new O2 sensors
- New Hyundai purge valve
- New Interstate battery
- New air filter
- 44K added to half tank of gas non premium gas (PO's gas, not mine)

This morning, after installing the new purge valve, I cleared the codes and reset the adaptions, I drove the truck around the neighborhood, up to about 30 MPH. The truck reached operating temperature. It ran just as badly as it always has.

Here are the error codes after driving around the neighborhood (they are essentially the same as they have been):


Add Camshaft Sensor error to the screenshot above - it wouldnt fit in the screen shot.

While I drove it around the neighborhood, I ran live data for the O2 sensors and MAFS. Screen shots below:






I am not sure what any of the graphs are supposed to look like, but whatever is happening with the Os sensors sure doesnt look right to me.

I welcome all feedback and suggestions.

Thanks again, this group in invaluable in keeping new owners engaged and wanting to fix this trucks.

-Burwell, New Orleans
 
  #22  
Old 08-06-2019, 12:10 PM
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By the graphs, looks as if your O2 aren’t doing anything. You might want to check out the wire diagram and see if all the faulted sensors meet at a solder or wire or even ecu to see what correlates. Maybe a junction point could have corrosion, or a shafed wire. Maybe where the loom enters into the cabin from the engine. Just an idea.
 
  #23  
Old 08-07-2019, 11:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Nosugar0carbs
By the graphs, looks as if your O2 aren’t doing anything. You might want to check out the wire diagram and see if all the faulted sensors meet at a solder or wire or even ecu to see what correlates. Maybe a junction point could have corrosion, or a shafed wire. Maybe where the loom enters into the cabin from the engine. Just an idea.
Thanks Nosugar0carbs. I talked to my good friend and professional mechanic. He is going to take it for a test drive and check it out Saturday for me.

I had a thought: A while back, the catalytic converter went out on my Dodge truck. There was a rattle from underneath the vehicle, a dramatic loss of power and the truck began to over heat. I have the same issues with the 2004 Land Rover, except it doesn't over heat. There is a distinct rattle under the truck, acceleration is terrible and per the iLand diagnostic tool, the new O2 sensors aren't functioning. Given I have these known issues, plus the PO stated she noticed that gas mileage was terrible for the Rover (although she admitted to only running regular gas in it) and had gotten worse.

I don't notice any smoke from the exhaust, but I didn't have that symptom with my Dodge truck either.

What is the groups thoughts on this as a possible cause of (at least some?) my issues?

Thanks as always!
 
  #24  
Old 08-07-2019, 01:34 PM
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I have seen one other cause of this before, now that you mention it, Restricted exhaust will cause a lack of power like you are describing.

In the case I saw it was the glass packing inside one of the mufflers separated and clogged everything up. I assume clogged cats would do the same thing.... And I assume if cats were blocked they would be getting visibly hot and red.

Not sure what a good test would be without taking things apart.
 

Last edited by Dave03S; 08-07-2019 at 01:48 PM.
  #25  
Old 08-12-2019, 10:22 AM
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Update 8/12

My good friend and professional mechanic looked at the 2004 Discovery and he thinks the ECU may be bad.

I haven't had a chance to have a conversation with him yet, but per a text from him yesterday, he stated " When I read the live data I get 0% on most of the data points which is impossible with the truck running. Have any of the folks on the Land Rover forums mentioned anything about the ECU failures or independent modules that run emissions and fuel trim or anything like that?"

What are the thoughts of the group? Pull the ECU and send it off and see if needs repairs ($350) or are there other possible solutions we can look into?

Thanks again got the help and feedback!

-Burwell, New Orleans
 
  #26  
Old 08-12-2019, 10:31 AM
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rather than repairing your ecu, you'd probably be better off getting a matched ecu/gauge cluster/bcu set and replacing them all. the mileage on the odometer will change to the mileage on the new set, of course.
 
  #27  
Old 08-12-2019, 10:51 AM
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Originally Posted by mollusc
rather than repairing your ecu, you'd probably be better off getting a matched ecu/gauge cluster/bcu set and replacing them all. the mileage on the odometer will change to the mileage on the new set, of course.
Thanks Mollusc. I knew that would be an option. What is the advantage to tracking down a new ECU, BCU and cluster and installing vs. repairing the original ECU? Cost?

I found a place online that will repair an ECU for a 2004 Discovery II for $350. https://www.g7computers.com/
 

Last edited by bjordan; 08-12-2019 at 10:56 AM.
  #28  
Old 08-12-2019, 10:58 AM
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pretty sure that cost will be significantly less, and if they have come from a running vehicle then you know that they should all be functional. i don't know if you will have to program the bcu for your specific setup/preferences.
 
  #29  
Old 08-12-2019, 11:19 AM
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Originally Posted by mollusc
pretty sure that cost will be significantly less, and if they have come from a running vehicle then you know that they should all be functional. i don't know if you will have to program the bcu for your specific setup/preferences.

Thanks again Mollusc. I am leaning heavily to repairing the original ECM. I contacted these folks too: https://moduleexperts.com/ecm-repair...SAAEgId2vD_BwE and one of their techs called. I can send them the ECU and they will test it and repair it for $239. If they test it and its Ok, its a $149.00 diagnosis fee. Turn around is 3 business days. Lifetime warranty.


With replacing the ECM/BCM and cluster from another vehicle, even if its running, I prefer not to have to get into programming it - if it even needs programming and I would still lose my correct milage (111,000). I have an iLand diagnosis tool, and it may do what I would need, but there isn't any form of manual for the iLand. I can call Atlantic British and I have worked with their main support guy for the iLand to get me up and running, but I think its easier for me to just get the ECM in the truck sent off and repaired, unless I am missing something?

Thanks again for the help so far!

-Burwell
 

Last edited by bjordan; 08-12-2019 at 11:23 AM.
  #30  
Old 08-30-2019, 04:07 PM
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Update 8/30

I sent my ECM off to these folks last week: https://moduleexperts.com/ecm-repair...SAAEgId2vD_BwE

I heard back from the technician and this was his response:
"Diagnostics are completed on the Land Rover module, and this unit is beyond repair due to the issue being traced to the main processor (computer chip). The chip is not able to be replaced on this module, as it is made into the circuit board assembly, so you would need to replace the unit to correct the issue. This damage was caused by the corrosion on the unit, unfortunately. Cleaning and repairing the corrosion now will not save the damage done."



So, we found the problem with the 2004 Discovery and all its woes. They offer a re manufactured unit that is plug-in-ready with zero programming needed on my end. Lifetime warranty. I told them to go ahead and do that. Should be shipped in 3-5 business days.



I will report back and let the group know how it works out after I get the ECM back from them.



Thanks for all the help! More to come.
 


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