Hey everyone.

So, I'm swapping out my BMC and like an idiot, forgot to remove the plastic protector from the piece that goes into the booster. After a few seconds of struggling to get it seated, I back off and see the protector stuck on the actuator. The nipple/hexcap on the end of the actuator pin had made it's way through a hole in the protector and in my infinite wisdom, I pulled. Out pops the actuator. It looks to have a star type ring (see below) that looks like some kind of retaining clip. Does anyone know if I can get this thing back in, or did I just buy myself a whole new booster? FML

 

I would suggest you look at the RAVE to see if this can be put back in. I have never seen/read anything on here about this part. if you do have to replace whole booster, I would suggest you get a new one ( I know it ain't cheap) and not a reman. Reman almost cost me a trip to the ER.

 

Check this thread, just below you:
https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...problem-72036/

 

https://www.lucky8llc.com/search?q=Drive+shafts#
Call them. I just noticed thread was 2 years old. Lucky 8 still in business.

 

Thanks man. That will probably be faster than digging through the RAVE! Fingers crossed I can just clip it back in.

 

Good luck!

 

I couldn't get a hold of them yesterday, but will try again today. I looked at the RAVE and it seems that the retaining clip and the BMC itself basically hold the output rod in place, so I clipped it back in with a long flathead screwdriver and installed the new BMC. I haven't bled the lines yet, but when bleeding the BMC (with the disco off) I got a nice firm pedal once I closed everything up. Then when I started her up to check for coolant leaks (also replaced the top radiator hose) I noticed that I lost the pedal once the booster was in play. I can "pump it up", but not to the point where it's 100% firm. I'm no engineer, and have no idea how much air in a break line can compress, but I'll try bleeding the lines once I warm up a bit, and hopefully there's just a lot of air in there, and the output rod issue isn't the culprit. I don't think it's the booster diaphragm itself because as bad as the BMC was, the booster was bone dry and clean when I took it out.

 

I'm glad you got it back in place.
You may have two issues going on here. First is needing to bleeding the lines. Furthest from booster first: Passenger side rear, driver rear, passenger front, driver front.
If you get your breaks back great. Remember, there is always some play on first push.
That being said, also listen to break booster when car is running. If you press on pedal and hear lots of hissing, even after you push down a second time, your booster may be on the way out. If your booster is shot, it is a pretty easy repair, a second pair of hands makes even easier. I said this before on another thread, if the booster is shot, I don't recommend using a re-manufactured one. I replaced mine with a reman, had a deer try to hump the hood of my car, and the reman failed. I spend the money on a brand new OEM one and no issues since. Reman was $275, OEM $500. Value of my life or my teenager who occasionally drives my D2: priceless.

 

Damn. Glad you're alright man. I did bleed in that order. I took her out yesterday to a parking lot and couldn't get the abs to kick in. I've been throwing a p1590 code for a while, but thought is was due to an issue I'm having with the lights. Maybe it's the shuttle valves? I do here a little hissing, but is sounds more like its coming from the lines out of the bmc if anything. Maybe I need to reflare those? I'll take another listen today, and maybe try nother bleed juat to be sure I got it all.

 

Code first.
P1590 ABS rough road signal circuit malfunction Hardware is OK, but SLABS ECU is sending an error signal ( from RAVE).
I would suggest you go find a steep hill and try the Hill Descent Control. If that works, you know the ABS is functional. Procedures for engaging are in the owners manual. See what happens (safely of course) and re-bleed.