I'd like to hear some experiences with having sleeves pinned to prevent or fix slipping. I want to do it, but I want to hear a few opinions and experiences first. Rickety Tick has a write up on it, and I'd like the insurance after rebuilding this engine from the naked block up, but also, I want to know if anyone has had negative side effects from pinning their sleeves.

 

have you seen this write up?

 

I think this is the same write up that I have. Someone sent it to me not my write up.

I didn't now how to link it to a post since I only have it in a file and not a wiz when it comes to computers.

Thanks for posting that!

 

Complete writeups.
I would use a hex set screw with a backing locking bolt on it.

Drill a precise hole.
And I would only drill just a small mark into the sleeve.
Just enough for the set screw to get a grip.
Like the dome of the set screw at the end.
Make a dome crater in the sleeve but don't puncture through.

Thread the aluminum in the block.
In goes the set screw.

But - for threading
Drilling all the way thru the sleeve may be best.

I would want to do it without drilling thru the sleeve.
Just partially into it.

but yes, drilling all the way thru - will be stronger.
as more of the set screw is exposed to the sleeve.

 

I would try to lower the engine temps first and see if you can get by with out the sleeve slapping. Doubt it.

Guess there will not be a 4.6 engine in my future.
I'll stick with the 4.0 if I dip my toe in the water again.

 

Or get this.
Engine seems OK at 217,000
No sleeves???

05 Grey Land Rover LR3

 

Prices of LR3's are coming down to the well kept 2004 Discovery Range...
I would upgrade to an LR3.

2005 Land Rover LR3 - Excellent Conditition!!!

 

Of course we are tired of this video but..

 

I just wish the new Discos weren't so ugly.

I may have to splurge get a Range Rover when I finally upgrade, if just because i don't like the look of the LR3.

That said, I think it's gonna be a while before I give up on my truck.

 

I'd like to keep from piercing the sleeve, but I don't think it would work and would just put a strange side force on the sleeve instead of holding straight. If I do it, I'm going all the way through.
And instead of a 1/4-24, how about a 10-32 or 10-40? The higher the thread pitch the more threads can grab onto the sleeve. And I like the socket head screw. I'll see if I can find the properties of the sleeve and match the screw to it so it will have the same heat/expansion coefficient and not crack the sleeve try to back out, even if held by the wire. I've used that wire on salt flats racing cars and it works, but I'll look at doing a more malleable and stronger steel or other material. With the vibration from the engine, the wire can easily form stress fractures because it is so brittle. And if it fractures, imagine those little steel chucks of twisted wire dropping into the cam valley opening and having fun grinding away at all we hold dear!
I still haven't heard if anyone has had success with this procedure. I'm wary about drilling into my engine and need to have some peace of mind. So have any of you tried this and succeeded or failed?