Pinning Sleeves on V8
I'd like to keep from piercing the sleeve, but I don't think it would work and would just put a strange side force on the sleeve instead of holding straight. If I do it, I'm going all the way through.
And instead of a 1/4-24, how about a 10-32 or 10-40? The higher the thread pitch the more threads can grab onto the sleeve. And I like the socket head screw. I'll see if I can find the properties of the sleeve and match the screw to it so it will have the same heat/expansion coefficient and not crack the sleeve try to back out, even if held by the wire. I've used that wire on salt flats racing cars and it works, but I'll look at doing a more malleable and stronger steel or other material. With the vibration from the engine, the wire can easily form stress fractures because it is so brittle. And if it fractures, imagine those little steel chucks of twisted wire dropping into the cam valley opening and having fun grinding away at all we hold dear!
I still haven't heard if anyone has had success with this procedure. I'm wary about drilling into my engine and need to have some peace of mind. So have any of you tried this and succeeded or failed?
And instead of a 1/4-24, how about a 10-32 or 10-40? The higher the thread pitch the more threads can grab onto the sleeve. And I like the socket head screw. I'll see if I can find the properties of the sleeve and match the screw to it so it will have the same heat/expansion coefficient and not crack the sleeve try to back out, even if held by the wire. I've used that wire on salt flats racing cars and it works, but I'll look at doing a more malleable and stronger steel or other material. With the vibration from the engine, the wire can easily form stress fractures because it is so brittle. And if it fractures, imagine those little steel chucks of twisted wire dropping into the cam valley opening and having fun grinding away at all we hold dear!
I still haven't heard if anyone has had success with this procedure. I'm wary about drilling into my engine and need to have some peace of mind. So have any of you tried this and succeeded or failed?
but I'm with you on being kind of nervous about drilling into the block.
yea if the screw only catches a couple threads when going all the way through, I doubt anything but all the way through would help.
you may have luck searching some of the foreign forums for pinning sleeves as I think they have been working on these things longer than we have and probably know all the little tricks. I know I read on one of the UK forums that installing flanged liners in rovers is a commonplace over there so I'm sure some pin sleeves too.
Someone suggested stainless steel screws were the best match for dissimilar metal expansion on our blocks/sleeves. Not sure what grade of stainless...or if they had a background in metallurgy.
let us know what you find out.
Last edited by RicketyTick; Jul 20, 2014 at 08:25 PM.
I was looking at a stainless option. I think the stainless would be grade 5 and would expand with heat a bit, but not much. The black oxide ones from McMaster-Carr would be grade 8 and bare expand, if at all. Stronger isn't always better, so the stainless could really be our best option. I'd rather match thermal expansion coefficients of the Aluminum and Cast Iron as best I can than have a higher shear strength. Especially when it won't be carrying a load of more than 50 lbs.
Rickety Tick, Have you pinned your sleeves?
Rickety Tick, Have you pinned your sleeves?
Not yet. Thinking about it. Still rolling the idea around. Looks pretty simple but, like you I would like to hear from some of those that have done this before and see how it's holding up. ptshram has pinned some but haven't heard how many hours, miles, years have been clocked since. Another guy on here also pinned his but don't know if he's been back with an update. I still gotta carry this block to have it all checked before I get to that point. I got sidetracked on that with this other truck I bought. Now working on this truck and will get back on the 4.0 engine project asap.
I pinned mine. Drilled all the way through. Threaded & locked in place with sleeve retainer thread locker. I shortened the pinserts so as not to extend beyond the inner surface of the sleeve.
Easily done and worth the peace of mind.
Here's the link to some of the rebuild: https://landroverforums.com/forum/showthread.php?p=456045#post456045
Easily done and worth the peace of mind.
Here's the link to some of the rebuild: https://landroverforums.com/forum/showthread.php?p=456045#post456045
Last edited by ImQuattro; Jul 21, 2014 at 08:24 PM.
I pinned mine. Drilled all the way through. Threaded & locked in place with sleeve retainer thread locker. I shortened the pinserts so as not to extend beyond the inner surface of the sleeve.
Easily done and worth the peace of mind.
Here's the link to some of the rebuild: Motor back from machine shop. Liners are now flush with deck - Land Rover Forums - Land Rover Enthusiast Forum
Easily done and worth the peace of mind.
Here's the link to some of the rebuild: Motor back from machine shop. Liners are now flush with deck - Land Rover Forums - Land Rover Enthusiast Forum
Last edited by RicketyTick; Jul 21, 2014 at 10:58 PM.
I pinned mine. Drilled all the way through. Threaded & locked in place with sleeve retainer thread locker. I shortened the pinserts so as not to extend beyond the inner surface of the sleeve.
Easily done and worth the peace of mind.
Here's the link to some of the rebuild: Motor back from machine shop. Liners are now flush with deck - Land Rover Forums - Land Rover Enthusiast Forum
Easily done and worth the peace of mind.
Here's the link to some of the rebuild: Motor back from machine shop. Liners are now flush with deck - Land Rover Forums - Land Rover Enthusiast Forum
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