Hello All,

background:
I bought my second discovery two months ago, 2003 Land Rover discovery with 130k miles. Owner said it was fine. Sale was as is. We test drove on the highway it ran smooth. Bought it and I am driving home and 30 minutes in it starts to overheat and I hear the infamous tapping noise but it's loud. I stop the car and text the seller and he says the sale was as-is. So I figured I could try to save it. I heard pressure being released from the engine bay so I pop the hood and the coolant is boiling over. I let it cool down, in the meantime a tow truck was on its way to take the car to a foreign car indy shop with good reviews. The guy said it was misfiring and low compression in cylinder 7. So we pulled the heads off and found that an intake valve was stuck open in cylinder 7 and the valve seat was damaged. I Got the heads rebuilt. I purchased the Atlantic British head gasket kit that comes with all the seals and gaskets. I also purchased a new maf sensor because I thought that could have been the reason for the cylinder 7 misfire as well as a new thermostat because I had thought that was the reason for the overheat. The mechanic put the car back together with all new gaskets and seals, he said the fuel system was good and the o2 sensors were reading fine and that the cause of all this was possibly just that broken valve seat. Once I got it back about an hour in I could hear sloshing water noises from the heater core and no heat in the car with the heat setting on high so I tried to bleed the air out of the coolant by opening the bleed screw on the T and opening the expansion tank cap then lifting the expansion tank about 8in high until a steady flow of coolant was pouring out of the bleed screw. This helps for a day, I drive about 10 miles a day for work so for the next day it was fine as well. I end up getting all the paperwork at the dmv. The next day it overheats on me again and loses heat in the car as well. I also get a cylinder 3 misfire code. I take it back to the shop where he says he fixed the air trapped in the heater core issue and as far as the cylinder number 3 misfire he said drive the car around a little bit more so that the the valve guides seat properly. I believe him because the car runs as smooth as ever,I could not tell at all if there was a misfire because the car is running so smoothly and it was great the last two days.
This morning I was driving to work and the heat in the car went out again followed by a sudden overheat, I stopped the car pulled over and got an Uber to work then I got an Uber back to the car with coolant during my lunch break and after bleeding the coolant system I let the engine heat up but it gets too hot again I popped the hood and the coolant was boiling over. I managed to get the car home without overheating by letting it cool driving a couple miles ..letting it cool etc. I decided to open the oil cap and it was steaming I tap the oil cap over the radiator shroud plastic.. low and behold water drops fell out of the oil cap. I checked the oil dipstick and the oil level was about three times as high as it is supposed to be and there was a milky oil color. Mind you this car had new fresh oil 2 days ago when I got it back from the shop.

What to do?:
I want to take it back to the indy shop on Monday but is it worth redoing the head gaskets again, or is there an engine swap that I can do that will give me enough power as this current engine but that is more reliable. What would be my estimated cost for the parts alone. I know about the ls swap with a $2,000 kit that would allow my indie mechanic to just bolt in the new engine with minimal custom fabrication although I do not want to go this route because a rebuilt LS motor is $4,000 plus $2,000 for labor. I can't afford that right now. So what are my options if any ...... Other than to get the head gasket replaced again.

Thank you in advance.

 

With that much anti freeze in the oil pan, my first educated guess would be front cover/oil pump housing gasket.

Brian.

 

Thank you for that, I will inspect that area today and report back. So that I can understand better, is that a common failure point?

 

It's also important to realise that the temperature gauge on the dashboard is not particularly accurate. By the time it starts to move from the centre area, you've probably actually already overheated -- which may or may not have caused damage. Repeatedly overheating (as has happened to you) is definitely not doing your block or heads any good.

 

Update: I didn't find any visual leaks so I took it back to the repair shop that did my head gaskets.
they called me today saying the block is cracked.

​​I really do not want to put in another oem overheat prone 70's architecture Buick engine in this truck so what are my options for an engine swap that would cost less than 7k?

Thank you for your responses

​

 

Numerous threads on this exact topic on the forum, but for the money you're willing to spend it would be very hard to accomplish. Especially if you're paying someone to do the engine swap as well.
Search for "turner" or "ls swap" to see what kinds of prices people are talking about.

 

Hey sorry to hear about what you went thru. That seller knew what he was selling you so it's a good lesson for all potential disco buyers.

From what I understand you want to get a running truck for minimal money. Buddy you are in luck. There is a way to do that and I know cuz that's how I always do that. Find a used engine for 500 and slap it in. Hell, go crazy and spend a few more bucks and change head gaskets and water pump while you are there. Get your temps at the 180 ish mark and monitor them with an ultra gauge and you are good to go.

Disclaimer: this is my usual rant everytime this issue comes up. I like my discos but I don't want to marry them with a 7k motor.

 

@zuke thanks for the support 👍 my only thing is what if the engine I buy has a cracked block or how long until it will get cracked?! Idk if I'm willing to take that risk but I definitely will consider it

​​​​​I know there are other threads on here about engine swaps but I was wondering if anyone could let me know how bad of an idea it would be to drop in a 4bt or a 6bt Cummins diesel engine. Thanks again for he fast replies

 

Thats why you look for a (preferably) running RR P38 4.6. They were the cream of the crop.

 

The LS swap is the Only swap that can retain the D2 electronics/abs, hill decent, etc.
A diesel swap would not, and would be very expensive.
Plus, diesel weight will also require upgraded suspension...more money.
No disrespect, but a D2 is only for 2 kinds of people; ones that do their own work, and ones that can afford to pay a shop for all the things that break, and not if, but when.
As said above, a P38 4.6 from a RR is your best bet, and really your only option. Unless you find a running 4.0 or 4.6 from a D2 and take the risk.
D2's are also Very easy to work on, and the service manual is here. So, money can be spent on tools vs paying someone else, and you learn and save money.
Good luck with it.