plenty of cranking power but no start
When I started out for dinner, myDisco took about 5 seconds of cranking before starting (a first for this),and then ran fine for the 25 mile trip to the restaurant. About 90 minutes later I tried to leave but it wouldn't start. Plenty ofcranking powerbut no go. So I hitched a ride with my buddies to the game and4 hours later I tried it again and this time it fired right up with no hesitation and ran fine all the way home. After I garaged it I tried it again and it fired right up like new. Could this be a failing fuel pump (though my experience with them is when they go bad, they usually go without intermittent operation) or something else like a loose ignition wire?
It depends. Your thread is title "plenty of spark but no start" which leads me to believe it's a fuel related issue. Then you state after your 90 minute meal it wouldn't start, but you had plenty of juice. My question(s) - did you actually check to see if you have spark (when it's failing) and what does plenty of juice mean? I also assume you're talking about a crank and no start situation.
The next time it is failing (cranking but will not start) pop the hood and slowly depress the schrader valve in the fuel rail. If fuel comes out, then it's not the pump.Then you need to check for spark while it's cranking.
Fuel and spark are the two major component needed fora internal combustion engine.
If it's not cranking, then you have other issues.
The next time it is failing (cranking but will not start) pop the hood and slowly depress the schrader valve in the fuel rail. If fuel comes out, then it's not the pump.Then you need to check for spark while it's cranking.
Fuel and spark are the two major component needed fora internal combustion engine.
If it's not cranking, then you have other issues.
sorry for the semantical confusion - I edited for clarity, and no, I didn't check for spark or fuel flow. It was late andI was on the highway.
If you feel someone has offended you in a public forum, don't be a coward and send thatperson a email.State your opinion here. By no means was I trying to "talk down to you" If that's how you took it, that's not myproblem.One thing youhave to realize, we have no idea what each member mechanical skills are.
Even you yourself realized your original post mayhave been misleading or incomplete, that's why you choose to edit your post.
Forthe rest of you who might be thinking what's going on. 2000 Disco 2 SD7 sent me a personal email.Which I'll copy and paste
"I have never had anyone talk down to me on a public forum like that before - fuel and spark main components fora combustion engine - really? Thanks Mr. wizard...."
Did you really expect me not to post your email? I'm going to be a bigger person and apologize if my words offended you, but keep your personal emails to yourself. I don't need it.
Mike aka Mr. Wizard
Even you yourself realized your original post mayhave been misleading or incomplete, that's why you choose to edit your post.
Forthe rest of you who might be thinking what's going on. 2000 Disco 2 SD7 sent me a personal email.Which I'll copy and paste
"I have never had anyone talk down to me on a public forum like that before - fuel and spark main components fora combustion engine - really? Thanks Mr. wizard...."
Did you really expect me not to post your email? I'm going to be a bigger person and apologize if my words offended you, but keep your personal emails to yourself. I don't need it.
Mike aka Mr. Wizard
Yup, fuel and spark would be the first place to start looking, but surprisinglya lot of people don't realise this, or even know how their engine works for that matter. Anyways, see if you have spark first because it's easiest to do, if not then your crank sensor is probably bad. Mike, I kind of like Mr. Wizard, I would take that as a compliment and it seems like you know enough to have earned it.
While I sincerely appreciate our technical advice, your condescending remarks have no place in a public forum. Apology accepted and offered to those subjected to this.
You won't be able to check the fuel pressure do to the location of the shrader valve.
My money id on a failing crank senor that will not allow the ECU to fire the plugs. This is a pretty common and easy problem to fix if I am right.
My money id on a failing crank senor that will not allow the ECU to fire the plugs. This is a pretty common and easy problem to fix if I am right.
when its cranking and not starting, itll happen again, check to see if the check engine light turns off, its on when the key goes to pos 2, then should turn off when the ecm gets the signal from the crank sensor, so, if light stays on, crank sensor is bad
Mike,
According to the RAVE resetting adaptions using textbook is required after replacing the cankshaft position sensor. Is this absolutely necessary or will I be able to R&R w/o textbook (which I don't have anyway)?
update: just learned thatECU will learn after 24 hours so textbook is not required.
According to the RAVE resetting adaptions using textbook is required after replacing the cankshaft position sensor. Is this absolutely necessary or will I be able to R&R w/o textbook (which I don't have anyway)?
update: just learned thatECU will learn after 24 hours so textbook is not required.


