It is my understanding that this particular sensor can become faulty with out always throwing a code. So far I have no codes or CEL, just the two incidents previously reported.

 

No you dont need testbook to reset after you replace the cranksensor.
I think DiscoMike is right and you just need a new crank sensor.

 

I'm a little confused now, so you do have spark and the truck won't start? Then I don't think it's your crank sensor. Listen closely to your fuel pump and see if it turns on when you turn the ignition on (it should turn on for a second or two and then shut off).

 

Fuel pump does come on for about 4 or 5 seconds when I turn the key on, so that doesn't appear to be the problem. New crank sensor should arrive today.

 

Even if it's not the crank sensor (which it probably is), I think they should all be replaced before 100k miles anyways since it will leave so stranded. They tend to go badsince they'relocated in a pretty bad place right next to the exhaust. You'll probably find that your's is scorched, rusty and covered in metal shavings when you take it out.

 

You are not kidding when you say the location is in a bad spot. I can see it, at least the lower half, but getting to it without having the truck on a lift is next to impossible especially where the multiplug connects to the harness. Luckily I have a friend with a lift I can use tomorrow to change this out. Even with that convenience, the multiplug connection appears to be a blind spot at best. Thanks everyone for your input.

 

Getting the sensor out from below is pretty easy with the front end on a set of car ramps. A rachet box/end wrench helps a lot too. Get the sensor out and then unplug it from above in the engine compartment, aflatscrewdriver andlong needle-nose pliers helps pop the plug out.Getting the new one plugged back in is the hard part, just keep trying different body and arm positions until you can reach in there far enough. For some reason your arms just keep bendingthe wrong way, once you find the right position, it's very easy. I think laying across the top of the engine helps and then you have to snake your arms in there.

 

No doubt you have done this before Mike - thanks much for the tips. I kind of discovered some of those contortions you described when doing a dry run earlier. Still can't see that plug-in connection from the top though I imagine I will if I can push it up from the bottom after I disconnect the sensor. Man what bugger! And I thought getting the alternator out was a pain!