Updates from yesterday:
Extinct and other senior members: Thank you so much for your valuable input.

I could not get any Walker O2 sensors, I ended up having to buy 2 Bosch sensors. Pepboy has a sale right now for only $61 apiece. regular price is $81. I wanted a "walker" one for only $43, but they dont have them in stock. Guess what: After installation of new bosch sensors, codes P0130 and P0150 went away. I am not sure why the after market ones did not work. Helpful hint: I used some dielectric gel on the connector contacts which, I believe , made excellent contact between the male and female sensor contact. I would recommend using the dieelectric gel. I live 5 miles from a body of water and the humidity is reliatively high. Previous pending codes P0100, P0400, and P0011 all went away as well.
I cleared the engine light codes, and had to deal with three new monitors CAT, EVAP and AIR and one code P01569 (plausible rough road bs which I do not think will affect smog passing)

I managed to clear the CAT monitor, but still have to deal with the monitors EVAP and AIR. These two monitors are very stubborn. I was told the AIR can only be dealt with after engine has been sitting for 8 hours or overnight. I will try again tomorrow to try getting rid of the monitor AIR (supplemental air for California emission)

As for the monitor EVAP, I may have to buy a new gas cap, or take my chance at the smog test station, I was told they may allow me to have one monitor at time of smog inspection.

Again, I really appreciate any comments or feedback on how to get rid of the two monitors EVAP, and AIR. BY the way, the CAT monitor came back after I got rid of it early morning. CAT monitor can easily come back while I was trying to get rid of the EVAP and AIR monitors. Any idea why?

Thanks

 

I'm not sure that any of the usual places will have Walker sensors in stock. Amazon would be the only real option for getting them I think, but since you got some that seem to be working, there shouldn't be any need to keep looking.
You usually have to drive for a while in varying traffic conditions (slow speed with varying RPM, high speed with constant RPM, etc.) in order for all of the emissions tests to complete. Whenever you clear the engine codes, the test process resets and you have to start again.
Have you checked for vacuum leaks?

 

Post your most recent codes. It is very rare to have random leaks, most of the time it is an electronic failure. Evap purge valves frequently fail, The most common AIR failure is the pump is seized, the AIR solenoid valve can fail also although it is possible the pump is not working or the vacuum lines have come loose from the actuators. Can you hear your AIR pump running on startup? You can jumper the relay to test the AIR pump. You can jumper the solenoid to test its operation.

Good luck.