Found a number of related posts and the video for replacing the CPS and all very informative. What I'm wondering is what I might do first before replacing the CPS. And should I stop driving it?

This is a 2001 SE D2 with 105k. Bought in Jan 2011 with 95k for $3500. Did a Throttle body heater plate repair myself (4-5mos ago) from the instructions on this forum and I think it worked fine.

About a month ago got a service engine soon (SES) light and had Auto Zone clear it. I think it was an emission code but not sure I remember since it didn't come back right away. Since then the battery died (it was pretty old) and I replaced it. Last week it stalled on my wife while driving slowly and then started back up no problem. Since then it didn't start once for her leaving Wallgreens, she got a jump and it started. Then yesterday after running multiple errands it wouldn't start for me. Cranked and cranked but wouldn't turn over. Gave it a few minutes and got it to start. Last night on my way home I got the SES flickering on a couple times and felt a "klunk" and then got the flashing "M" and "S" lights and the "D" on the odometer. Pulled over turned it off checked the manual. Turned it back on and no lights so drove the rest of the way home 20 miles. Today took to local shop paid $35 to pull the code! PO335. Drove to work 25 miles fine and going to drive home another 25 miles. The mechanic also mentioned "As a side note, we’ve seen people set this code.. when having starting problem which cause the engine to kick back (as in backwards for a moment) screws up the crank signal time readings. Computer thinks the sensor switched too many times in a defined time Ms" -hard to read but maybe you guys know how to interpret?

Wondering if this is a really bad idea to keep driving it or not? Should I try anything before replacing the CSP? Thanks and sorry for the long post...

-Eric

 

Had crank position sensor issues similar to yours; replaced and good to go for past 3000 miles...

 

If it were me, I wouldn't drive it. With my luck, it would go into limp mode on the highway, or not start when I need it to. It took me less than an hour to replace.

 

Drove home from work last night and stopped at the store near home (after about a 25 mile ride) wouldn't start when I came out. Let it sit for 10 minutes and it started right up. I had to drive in to work today and it stalled on me after about 10 miles (again going slowly and around a corner) It started back up and got me to work. I'll probably order the part today and try to get a ride to work tomorrow, and replace it tomorrow night.

Before I throw money at parts though, is there anything else that could be causing this?

 

crank position sensor with potential charging system issues. one you replace the crank sensor, have the charging system checked.!

 

See attached - two bolt job. From RAVE workshop manual, a whole free copy awaits you at link in my signature. And text is a little old, Rover techs have stated that it does not need Testbook, will re-learn in 20 minutes or so.

 

Just wanted to follow up and say thanks. I did the replacement of the CPS ($85 +$10 shipping from Atlantic British) and the truck has been fine for a couple of weeks now. It was a pain trying to un-clip and re-clip the plug on the wire from below the truck. My forearm would not fit between the chassis and the exhaust pipe and I didn't want to remove the pipe as I believe they did in the video. My wife actually held the top part of the plug in place which allowed me to plug the bottom of it back in eventually.

 

First don't go pay some dumb mechanic $35 to read the codes, maybe is wasn't so dumb when you consider you can get codes read for free at most part stores.
Replace the crank sensor. Are you a little mechanical, if so there is a good link to LUCK 8 and a video on how to replace it. Part cost between $70 and $85 depending on where you buy it.

 

Where is the crank shaft sensor on a D2 v8 1999?

 

Rear of engine - see attached.