Those tiny scratches in the crank should be ok, those look like they were done accidentally during disassembly. Just make sure they do not stand proud of the surface. The crank main bearings look very typical - essentially zero wear. They should be fine to reuse. Crank looks fine, rest of the pistons look fine. Have you downloaded the RAVE manual, available here: https://extinctmotorsports.com/extin...-manuals-rave/

 

that is certainly one tool I would highly recommend having. There are many others and some of those require some experience to use them properly. All parts you are using should be checked to ensure they meet proper specs. If you don’t you might be pulling the engine again in a few thousand miles. The rover v8 is a very simple engine and it’s a good rebuild candidate for a novice. Just take your time and read up as much as you can.

EDIT: I am by no means an expert engine rebuilder. I have done a couple of rover V8 an and Ford Modular engine. I am just trying to pass advice back to the community here that has helped me for over a decade.

Give this channel a watch to hep give you an idea of what goes into a successful engine rebuild:
https://youtube.com/@jamsionline?feature=shared

 

The tool you need most is the feeler gauges for measuring end gap on the new rings. The crank is fine, the rods are fine, an the non-scored pistons are fine. You can measure everything if you want but it is all going to be in spec as it is obviously OEM parts with minimal wear.

 

take the camshaft and crank to a local machine shop. Have them 'only polish' the crank (rod and main journals) and have just the journals polished on the camshaft (if you plan to replace the cam bearings and reuse the old lifters). it's fast cheap and well worth doing.... I wouldn't even bother measuring big and little C rod ends if you are using them again.... If it was not already mentioned, look for sunken liners, and have your heads checked for flatness....I would also put a quick hone into the liners (You can do it yourself with a ball hone) . after all this, your main components are good to go

 

If I am unable to take it to a machine shop would it be fine? Should I try doing it myself like in this video?

 

Just went through something very similar. Cracked block in my 2003 198,XXX mile motor replaced with a 4.0 with ~140,000 miles. I have put about 200 miles on the truck and she runs like a new car.

 

In my opinion none of your stuff needs to go to the machine shop. All those tiny scratches are too small to make a difference and it will look like that 3 months after the rebuild.

 

Is it completely necessary to replace the piston rings or can they be re-used in the new block?

The rave says not to hone cylinders. Why does it say this? Is it only for factory rings?
I found Goetze rings for a little bit cheaper on fcpeuro. It says on the page that they are OE and were the factory rings. Would I need to do honing with these?

Will this tool from harbor freight be good for honing?
https://www.harborfreight.com/4-in-e...one-59677.html

 

You are correct on the Rave, I suspect they do not want you to hone the cylinders because they put a precise pattern on the hone and do not want you to mess it up. You can measure the end gap on the piston rings and decide if they are re-usable based on the spec in the Rave however two of yours were damaged so you will have different ring tensions and dimensions. Rings are among the most critical for good compression and sealing of oil so I always replace them.

 

I will probably replace the rings then. Will I be fine if I do not hone the cylinders like the rave recommends? Will not honing lead to an increased risk of slipped liners?