Is it possible to fit better brake componets from a different model/make?
#11
I still think that this is an area of the aftermarket that is missing for the Discovery given owners penchants for installing bigger tires and adding weight to our trucks.
I did more or less what you're thinking about to my 1976 Moto Guzzi. Added 4 pot Brembo Calipers from a Ducati, Brembo floating drilled rotors, upgraded pads and a new master cylinder. I can peel the rubber off my tires with my brakes as configured, which is how I like it.
Big Brake kits are also really popular with the VW Westfalia crowd. Another massively heavy vehicle where the laws of physics become unkind when you need to stop in a hurry.
I did more or less what you're thinking about to my 1976 Moto Guzzi. Added 4 pot Brembo Calipers from a Ducati, Brembo floating drilled rotors, upgraded pads and a new master cylinder. I can peel the rubber off my tires with my brakes as configured, which is how I like it.
Big Brake kits are also really popular with the VW Westfalia crowd. Another massively heavy vehicle where the laws of physics become unkind when you need to stop in a hurry.
#12
Quite a few LR parts are interchangeable like RR P38, D1 to D2 but IMO there are little differences. Most servo assisted brakes feel sqidgy and once the ABS kicks in it's all down to tires whether you stop or not. Yep you can fir Brembo or AP calipers and rotors+pads but they only stop wheel rotation until the ABS takes over and unless you're running sticky winter tires or top quality highway tires it's all academic. AT or MT tires are cr@p on tarmac by comparison to high performance tires designed for tarmac. The best tarmac tyre I often use is the Goodyear Eagle F1 which takes some real beating but isn't good offroad but has lots of adhesion for braking and cornering on tarmac. Horses for courses like brakes and stopping, the ABS limit is king coupled with good rubber. I only use tarmac tires on my LR's and the RRS and to some extent the D2 can be driven like a 'go kart' on good rubber and good stock brakes IMO everything else is a myth.
#14
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DustyLBottoms (11-07-2014)
#15
One of the first things I did to my D2 was to add some better brakes. Made a huge difference over the stock brakes that were on it.
With this setup, I do not feel like I need any more braking power.
Came with everything to do all 4 corners. Purchased from here:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/291240229324...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
With this setup, I do not feel like I need any more braking power.
Came with everything to do all 4 corners. Purchased from here:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/291240229324...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Last edited by adventr; 11-07-2014 at 02:46 PM.
#16
We're not talking pads and rotors. Most people complaining about brakes on these things have already installed upgraded pads and rotors, as well as stainless steel hoses. We're looking for better calipers and master cylinders.
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TRIARII (11-07-2014)
#17
One of the first things I did to my D2 was to add some better brakes. Made a huge difference over the stock brakes that were on it.
With this setup, I do not feel like I need any more braking power.
Came with everything to do all 4 corners. Purchased from here:
Front Rear Performance Drilled Slotted Brake Rotors Ceramic Pads Fits Discovery | eBay
With this setup, I do not feel like I need any more braking power.
Came with everything to do all 4 corners. Purchased from here:
Front Rear Performance Drilled Slotted Brake Rotors Ceramic Pads Fits Discovery | eBay
#18
Ok, I get it.
I'm curious what you guys are using your rovers for, in order to feel like you need to upgrade the brakes?
#19
Better as in all-around better, in my opinion. Much better bite than the original brake parts that were on the rover when I got it. Once bedded in, they engage the ABS from a 60mph panic stop. Not sure what more you could ask from brakes on one of these rigs.
Just for reference, my D2 stops better than the FZJ80 landcruisers I've owned in the past.
#20
How old were the stock pieces on the Rover when you got it? I think the D2 has a perfectly fine braking system, and have locked up my 33s for 15-20 feet on dry pavement with stock equipment.
Drilled/slotted rotors are really designed for high-heat applications, that's where they shine. Stock vs. drilled/slotted should stop nearly identical under any braking that's not been overheated.
Drilled/slotted rotors are really designed for high-heat applications, that's where they shine. Stock vs. drilled/slotted should stop nearly identical under any braking that's not been overheated.