Mine won't engage the ABS on asphalt. Not good at all. I have EBC rotors and akebono pads and no luck. I have bled the system many times, using both manual methods and by activating the pump with an autocom cdp+. Very unhappy with these things. I may just try rebuilding the calipers for the hell of it at this point.

 

I honestly don't know any of the history on my rover! Pads were ~halfway gone, and the rotors weren't grooved or anything when I installed the new stuff.

Really just went with the drilled/slotted stuff because of good previous experiences using that brand/distributor and the price was great.

 

X1 exactement

 

X1, couldn't agree more ZGP. It'll be carbon/carbon next and 2 miles to stop the damned things through lack of brake heat IMO race brakes for racing cars etc or you're wasting time, effort and hard earned cash for prettiness and often creating inefficiencies. anyways, brakes are for 'sissies' as the saying goes

 

You need a better friction coefficient to get a better bite. Big brakes dissipate heat better, they wont get you stopped any faster (*for this discussions sake*)
If you have enough bite, but are fading towards the end of a panic stop, your pads are not up to the task of operating under high temps. In that case, get a more performance oriented pad designed to withstand more heat. SS braided lines might not help you stop better but will give you a better feel at the brake pedal since they do not balloon like rubber lines under pressure.
Want to stop better? live with brake dust, accept faster rotor wear, and expect some squeaking.
FYI Hawk makes HP-Plus road race/street driven track car pads for the discos... I have these in my corvette and they stop like crazy. But they dust, squeal and take a few stops to warm up to operating temp.

 

The D1 and Defender brakes are 4 piston, the D2 are 2 piston.

P38 has the exact same brakes as D2.

It wouldn't be impossible to replace brakes with something better. You'd need custom brackets to allow the upgraded calipers to attach. If you wanted to go to lager rotors, you would probably need to run 17" or 18" wheels.

Also, maybe someone could volunteer their D2 (and maybe a D1 also?) and get wilwood to make a kit? Here is what it says on their website:

"Our engineers are continuously developing new kits. In order to do so on many older models, we need to digitize an actual vehicle corner, design a kit and then install it on the car for final fitment and performance checks. If you would like to participate in this program, go to our Brake Kit Referral page to submit your information to our development department."

 

So what exactly determines how good a caliper is? The more pistons the better the braking?

A little background on my truck. When I picked it up she had 130k on the clock, Goodyear Eagle LS tires on 18" wheels and standard brake rotors and pads (not sure if they were genuine or aftermarket). The brakes were normal I guess but not great. Then I ordered new front calipers and a mid grade brake kit from Atlantic British. No noticeable change in braking. Then I downgraded to 16" wheels and skinny MT tires, next I replaced rear calipers, brake booster, brake master cylinder and upgraded to drilled slotted rotors and ceramic pads. Again I noticed no difference in braking. Then I replaced both front wheel hubs and front ABS sensors.... again no change making. The reason why I spent all that $$$$ on new brake parts is because I thought that the brake system was old and perhaps if I replaced most all the parts then i would have really good braking. Regarding my MT tires, true they wont help with brakes but keep in mind they are not your traditional wide tires. I will get the SS brake lines installed soon but I doubt that will do very much.

Its worth mentioning that before I purchased my current D2, I test drove another vehicle. A 2004 Disco 2 S. Low end model with no bells or whistles. Took her down the road and I was amazed at how quickly she stopped when i put a little bit of pressure on the brake pedal..... I expect as much from my D2.

All this work should pay off with better braking power:

 

probably surface area of the pistons and the brake pads.

Did you replace all of these brake parts yourself? If so, how did you bleed the brakes afterward?

I got the best results after bleeding everything very well. I also had access to a scan tool to actuate the modulator. Pedal feel and "assist" was never as good as many other cars, but it stopped fine. You just have to, as Zack said, press harder.

 

I just contacted wilwood so we will see what happens.

 

I installed the front calipers, brake booster, master cylinder myself, a Rover mechanic buddie installed the rear calipers and new rotors and pads and bleed the system. Before that I had DAP enterprise bleed the system.