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Possible secondary air injection tick? Opinions

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Old Apr 19, 2020 | 08:41 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by redwhitekat
Well sure enough I have a leak on the sai piping passenger side.
Looks like someone tried to put something over it before.
Any tips to patching this without removing anything.
Maybe flex seal lol

Almost zero chance you can fix with some kind of adhesive. Consider a replacement, or take it off and take it to a local muffler shop and ask them to weld it. Or take the whole truck to the muffler shop and have them weld it.
 
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Old Apr 19, 2020 | 10:09 PM
  #12  
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I’m going to try jb weld and permatex wrap over top of that. See how it goes
 
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Old Apr 19, 2020 | 10:39 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by Extinct
Almost zero chance you can fix with some kind of adhesive. Consider a replacement, or take it off and take it to a local muffler shop and ask them to weld it. Or take the whole truck to the muffler shop and have them weld it.

actually your probably right. I think i will take it off and take it over to my mechanic for a bit of patching
 
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Old Apr 20, 2020 | 08:44 AM
  #14  
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I had the exact same thing happen to mine. The pipe completely broke in two. Found a decent used one on ebay and replaced.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2020 | 09:53 AM
  #15  
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Looks like mine was welded before
I tried removing it today soaked it in wd 40 yesterday. It’s like Swiss cheese. Put my wrench on the nut and everything just twists

I’ll see what my mechanic thinks I sent him a few pictures. I think they can weld in the cracks in place without removing

or I will just jb weld steel the crap out of it
 
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Old Apr 20, 2020 | 11:46 AM
  #16  
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Your mechanic would probably have a better chance of brazing the tube. Pretty thin stuff for your average mechanic to weld, especially, since most garages utilize .035 wire (which usually covers their daily needs the best). Even with .023 wire, you'd have a difficult time welding this (IMO)...not saying it can't be done...but the person better be pretty fluid with welding techniques.

Brazing offers a lower working temperature. You can get 1/16 rod and braze that up easily, probably right in place...since brazing offers a bit of "run" to the method...meaning, it can be worked into an area just by "pulling it" with heat. Very similar to soldering, technique wise.

Your best bet would be...find a body shop...they would be more familiar with the technique.

Another issue with welding, is the amount of heat needed to penetrate and melt wire is going to actually harden the surrounding area and weld. Which will encourage breakage down the road. These tubes are suppose to be somewhat flexible, expanding and contracting. Normally, if l end up welding something like this...l work the area with a torch afterwards, heating slightly and letting cool...couple times...to reduce the hardening affect of welding.

Brian.
 

Last edited by The Deputy; Apr 20, 2020 at 11:52 AM.
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Old Apr 20, 2020 | 11:58 AM
  #17  
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@redwhitekat You need 2 wrenches, and a lot of penetrating oil to avoid twisting.
  • A short open ended 18 for the nut into the head -you may or may not need this one
  • And the 27 for the big nut
I soaked mine for a couple of days before trying, then gently turn the big one while watching for twist. If it looks like it will twist tighten back and try again.
I found locking the 18 mm wrench on the engine side stopped the twist on one I had that tried to twist.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2020 | 01:23 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by The Deputy
Your mechanic would probably have a better chance of brazing the tube. Pretty thin stuff for your average mechanic to weld, especially, since most garages utilize .035 wire (which usually covers their daily needs the best). Even with .023 wire, you'd have a difficult time welding this (IMO)...not saying it can't be done...but the person better be pretty fluid with welding techniques.

Brazing offers a lower working temperature. You can get 1/16 rod and braze that up easily, probably right in place...since brazing offers a bit of "run" to the method...meaning, it can be worked into an area just by "pulling it" with heat. Very similar to soldering, technique wise.

Your best bet would be...find a body shop...they would be more familiar with the technique.

Another issue with welding, is the amount of heat needed to penetrate and melt wire is going to actually harden the surrounding area and weld. Which will encourage breakage down the road. These tubes are suppose to be somewhat flexible, expanding and contracting. Normally, if l end up welding something like this...l work the area with a torch afterwards, heating slightly and letting cool...couple times...to reduce the hardening affect of welding.

Brian.

yes i I thought about that when I actually felt that tubing. It is very thin I actually pinched it a bit with my Chanel lock to close up some of the gaps.

Ive been reading about jb weld steeel
I’ll clean up the area and apply a good amount of this stuff let it cure and on top of that apply jb weld high temp steel weld. Apparently this stuff dries to a like steel form so who knows

 
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Old Apr 20, 2020 | 01:25 PM
  #19  
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I’m actually not bad at brazing. I’m used to copper to copper or copper to steel

but currently I don’t have any torch’s or any rods.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2020 | 01:30 PM
  #20  
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I used to be pretty good at brazing too, good enough to know I would not want to point an Oxy Acetylene torch at those tubes while they are in the vehicle.

I've also noticed a suspicious SAI type tic lately. Either that or vacuum leak... Seems to be common suddenly.
 

Last edited by Dave03S; Apr 20, 2020 at 01:33 PM.
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