Water pump? Hoses reversed on top of tstat?

 

Run it up on ramps and turn the heat wide open...let it run to operating temp. That should get the air out of the heater core. Let it sit overnight and check the bleed for air.....fill it there if needed. Should be good to go then.

 

turning on the heat makes no difference. coolant flows through the heater coils continuously, regardless of the climate control setting.

 

Took the Disco for a light drive today (Don't tell the cops). Temps got up to 230 today after another coolant flush, no loss of coolant, new water pump. I'll check the fan clutch tomorrow after its fully cooled off.

 

Worked for me ....guess it was more getting the front up. But I read somewhere to turn heat all the way up ......nothing lost or gained by it so no big deal.

 

While I agree with him, I also agree with you.

I don't lift the jug or anything...

I park the truck on a hill and let it run, i crack the bleeder and squeeze the hoses, my temp goes up until the stat opens and then it's all fine.

All the other stuff is too long and too time consuming. The highest point of the system also doesnt matter with the heater pipes pointing downward, the air likes to stay there, thinks why parking it on a hill is better...plus it only takes a couple minutes.

 

yes, it's not going to hurt anything to open the heater all the way up. glad that you did get it bled though.
on many vehicles -- especially older ones -- you do need to open up the heater because the heat control is achieved by restricting the coolant flow through the heater coils. on these trucks the heat is controlled by diverter flaps instead; the amount of coolant flowing through the coils remains the same.

 

is your bottom rad hose cold going into thermostat?? Probably is change out your thermostat with a good quality one not one from lucky 8

i had the issue

 

So after a bleed this morning, I took the Disco for a test drive. Temps started getting up to 215 and still had no heat. I admittedly got kinda frustrated and it reflected in my driving. I guess that worked in my favor because after a few sharp turns the heat started working and the temps started dropping steadily and settled around 203 going down the road. This still seemed a little high, but I was happy that it wasn't overheating during long idles (around 215). I let it sit overnight again and let more air out the following morning. I went ahead and modified the fan and clutch with a heavy duty unit and the 620-112 fan. Man is this setup aggresive! That fan moves a lot of air and fits perfectly. I've heard the severe duty can be a little much for people, so I settled for the heavy duty and am happy with it so far! Driving temps with the stock thermostat are around 194 and long idle temps are never higher than 203 on an 80 degree day. Thanks for everyone that helped. As always a meticulous bleed and replacing a worn fan clutch can work wonders!

 

That's because you didnt let it cycle. The temp reading is coming from the left side of the engine while the cold stat that's air bound is on the right.

You have to let the upper hose going to the stat and the lower hose to the stat heat up before it opens.

That's why I ask for people to send me their tstats because they arent bad. Every one I've ever had opened when its supposed too. Even on other peoples trucks.