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Old Aug 15, 2014 | 07:16 AM
  #21  
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Fourwheeler Network has a blog posting on a DII head project. They are using the ARP stud kit and torquing to 60 lb-ft
2001 Land Rover Discovery II - 4 Wheel Drive & Sport Utility Magazine

From the APR 157-4301 instructions:http://arpinstructions.com/instructions/157-4301.pdf

Following the manufacturers recommended torque sequence tighten the nuts in three equal steps to 100 ft lbs with ARP ULTRA-TORQUE FASTENER ASSEMBLY LUBRICANT.

Heres a defender source thread on the topic: http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...d.php?p=548741

another one on rangerovers.net. http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/7-r...d-bolts-2.html

Seems the consensus it do not go over 65-70 lb-ft.
 

Last edited by acamato; Aug 15, 2014 at 07:42 AM.
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Old Aug 15, 2014 | 08:12 AM
  #22  
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I think I did 88
 
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Old Aug 15, 2014 | 08:35 AM
  #23  
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From: Boston Strong
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acamato,

that is a good little read, will have to follow the rest of the story.
it strange to see an American mag. doing an article on a LR build.

thanks
 
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Old Aug 15, 2014 | 10:17 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by drowssap
acamato,

that is a good little read, will have to follow the rest of the story.
it strange to see an American mag. doing an article on a LR build.

thanks
They are pretty slow on part II. The article was posted on 3/16/14 and states Check back next month for Part II of this article to read about completion of the head gasket repair and some of the other cool fixes we’ve applied to our second-hand Disco.

They are at 5 months since Part I.
 
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Old Aug 15, 2014 | 11:14 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by acamato

Seems the consensus it do not go over 65-70 lb-ft.
I went 25-50-75
 
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Old Aug 15, 2014 | 11:26 AM
  #26  
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From: Boston Strong
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They are pretty slow on part II. The article was posted on 3/16/14 and states Check back next month for Part II of this article to read about completion of the head gasket repair and some of the other cool fixes we’ve applied to our second-hand Disco.

probably found a loose line and sent it of to the bone yard or part II will be how to install flanged liners.
 
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Old Aug 16, 2014 | 01:47 AM
  #27  
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Those are good links but not what I was hoping to hear. I have torqued the ARP studs to 100ft/lb and now worry I may have damage to the blocks threads. What was ARP thinking when they came up with this, damit!!!
I have a 2 week camping trip starting Saturday morning and don't need a catastrophic failure with the family in tow.
 
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Old Aug 16, 2014 | 07:34 AM
  #28  
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From: Boston Strong
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have you pressure test your system yet?
have you cleaned the back of the engine and gotten on top with an inspection camera or mirror and checked the back of the heads and intake.
If your oil leaks are that bad and coming from the head gaskets I would expect to coolant leaks as well.check where the heads and intake meet in the rear and see if your leak is not coming from there.

if you had done damage with the ARP stud you would know it right way, you would have felt them pull out or after the first real heat cycle they would have been leaks everywhere.

if ARP say 100 then im sure the tested it for that, they are the largest manufacture of hp fasteners in the world. honestly I just don't think anyone has the ***** to go up to 100. no offence.

another mistake often made with studs is people use a taps to clean bolt holes which is fine on cast iron but on aluminum a thread chaser should be used, because you want to keep as much material as possible in the threaded hole.
 
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Old Aug 16, 2014 | 08:10 AM
  #29  
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Agreed. If you hit 100 incrementally and sequenced in to out in an alternating pattern, prolly fine. You'd know if yanked a set of threads or cracked it. The point is that it's unnecessary risk. Why up the risk %.
 
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Old Aug 16, 2014 | 08:37 AM
  #30  
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I went with 72ft/lbs on mine after reading through many differing specs when I did the job.
 
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