Pulled the upper intake and valve covers. Nothing out of the ordinary. Setup TDC on #5, pushrods & rockers were tight. Set #7 TDC, push rods and rockers were tight.
We've nearly pulled the lower intake off and removed the valley pan but I had to stop for my next batch of students who are taking my mid-term.
I'll post more later.

I'll be pretty ticked if the cam is worns. It's a new 229 that was very well lubed as were the lifters. Lots of assembly lube in all the appropriate places. Break-in oil was used and break-in went very smoothly (to the book).
So, yeah, I hope it's not that.

 

Baffled and frustrated here.
Upper and lower intake removed. Valley pan pulled.
Valve covers removed.


Super clean inside (heck, >100miles on rebuild and two oil changes).


Rolled crank over by hand and checked all the lobes of cam (back two are hard to see btw!). All have little to no wear on them and are spinning the lifters as they run up the ramps. Ramps and opening flanks have are shiny only on one outer edge, and noses look perfect. No play in any pushrods.


Pulled both rocker shafts and all lifters have a beautiful light swirl on the bottom.
I checked the rockers and the hardened cups staked into them. There were a couple IATN hits on these coming loose and making noise.


I'm coming up blank here.

 

I think I've figured it out.
When I pinned the sleeves I used 6mmx1.00 socket head bolts grade 12.9. They were what I had on hand. I shortened them to .25" and installed them into the drilled and threaded holes. I then carefully ground them down flush to the cylinder wall from inside the cylinder.
#5's must have extended 0.001" into the cylinder and with a cold motor, the piston isn't large enough to touch it.
But when the motor heated up and the piston warmed up, it expanded enough to just graze it.
Strangely enough, the #7 pin is longer by comparison (I removed it too looking for the sound). Its bore's length from exterior of block to piston skirt is .0035" longer than #5. This insinuates that the thickness of either (or both) the block and/or the sleeve are different between cylinders.
Stuff you learn!
Wish I would have found this BEFORE tearing the intake off.
Live and learn.
See pictures.
Picture on left shows shiny wear mark on #5 cylinder pin next to #7's pin.
Rightmost picture show (needs clocked 90degrees I see) the corresponding shiny mark on piston skirt through pin's hole.
Reassembly will commence tomorrow.
That's all for now.

 

Well, what happened here?

I'm chasing a loud tick at idle when the motor is up to temp ( https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...-thread-73313/ ) and I'm contemplating pulling the motor, dissassembly, jet hot/pressure check, pressing the sleeves down on the bottom recesses/stops, pinning the sleeves, new bearings, and Comitec HGs.

Please update with your findings.

Thanks!

 

Thanks for reminding me!
The owner parked the D2 for the entire winter after I finished the work.
He was going to have one of his motor head buddies, specializing in VW's, tear it down when they had time over the winter.
This plan never materialized.
SO, after inadvertently leaving the D2 running for 2+hrs after using it to jump start his wife's car, and finding the D2 still humming (with the noise still present) along and no issues, I think he took it as a sign the beast was OK to drive.
He's been driving it everyday since.
I've replaced the power steering pump since on it (previously was leaking, and finally gave out), and rebuilt the injectors.
He loves it.
Still clatters a bit when warm, I'm theorizing it's just piston slap.

 

Wait, you went to college?!😇

 

Don't worry... Nothing stuck

 

Some people have had serious problems with cometic gaskets leaking badly immediately after installation. You may want to google them before you use them. I was planning on using them until I saw the horror stories.

 

Thanks. I have been reading up on this since I posted. I'm going w a Victor Reinz gasket set.

 

Reinz Head Gasket Set Defender 90 Discovery Range Rover | eBay