Post-upgrade to Magnacor wires & Bosch+4 plugs with questions...
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Overlanding
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
Post-upgrade to Magnacor wires & Bosch+4 plugs with questions...
After I reported a rough/shaky idle, my LR Dealer here in Chicago detected a misfire in the #3 cylinder of my 2003 Disco (58,XXX miles). I reasoned this was the perfect opportunity to upgrade to Magnacor wires and Bosch+4 plugs. This past week I had my local, reputable shop (non-dealer) execute the job with the wires I purchased from Apex and plugs I purchased from AutoZone. The shop also replaced the intake gasket and cleaned the fuel line (both jobs were upon their suggestion).
Sadly, I could tell shortly after I drove off from the shop that the rough/shaky idle HAD NOT been fixed by the plugs and wires upgrade. I guess I would say it's a little better, but still not the smooth running to which I've grown accustomed. Instead, there's an intermittent, though frequent, shutter felt when idling.
Any thoughts on what may be causing this? Is it possible the plugs/wires were not inset properly? I supposed I could take it back to the repair shop or the dealer for additional diagnosis, but I'm already in this repair $1,100 (and that's with an extended warranty).
On the plus side, the power seems fine and is perhaps improved with the upgraded plugs/wires. Hopefully when the larger problem is fixed, there will be an even more marked improvement.
Sadly, I could tell shortly after I drove off from the shop that the rough/shaky idle HAD NOT been fixed by the plugs and wires upgrade. I guess I would say it's a little better, but still not the smooth running to which I've grown accustomed. Instead, there's an intermittent, though frequent, shutter felt when idling.
Any thoughts on what may be causing this? Is it possible the plugs/wires were not inset properly? I supposed I could take it back to the repair shop or the dealer for additional diagnosis, but I'm already in this repair $1,100 (and that's with an extended warranty).
On the plus side, the power seems fine and is perhaps improved with the upgraded plugs/wires. Hopefully when the larger problem is fixed, there will be an even more marked improvement.
Last edited by tcbinaflash; Jun 2, 2009 at 12:13 PM.
Rock Crawling
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 278
Likes: 2
From:
it's tough to say what to do being that you're not servicing the vehicle yourself. If the rough idle was occuring prior to the ignition wire / spark plug upgrade and it is still evident than that would seem to indicate that the problem lies elsewhere. If the issue was merely a bad wire or a fouled-plug I would expect the new wires and plugs to remedy the issue.
Super Moderator
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,174
Likes: 106
From: Middle of Caribbean
$1,100??!! I'm sorry to hear that. Could you not do this your self?
All you should have done was replace the plugs,wires,clean the throttle body, and do a seafoam induction cleaning. THEN go from there.
Why did they charge so much?
All you should have done was replace the plugs,wires,clean the throttle body, and do a seafoam induction cleaning. THEN go from there.
Why did they charge so much?
Camel Trophy
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 4,959
Likes: 11
From: Tulsa, OK
The job is easier if you remove the intake, so there is your gasket replacement, and cleaning the fuel line is just dumping some injector cleaner in the tank.
$1100 is waaaaaaaaay too much. You are about $600 shy of head gaskets there... Take it back and tell them it is running rough. Is your check engine light on?
$1100 is waaaaaaaaay too much. You are about $600 shy of head gaskets there... Take it back and tell them it is running rough. Is your check engine light on?
Administrator
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 25,707
Likes: 107
From: Denver, Colorado
After I reported a rough/shaky idle, my LR Dealer here in Chicago detected a misfire in the #3 cylinder of my 2003 Disco (58,XXX miles). I reasoned this was the perfect opportunity to upgrade to Magnacor wires and Bosch+4 plugs. This past week I had my local, reputable shop (non-dealer) execute the job with the wires I purchased from Apex and plugs I purchased from AutoZone. The shop also replaced the intake gasket and cleaned the fuel line (both jobs were upon their suggestion).
Sadly, I could tell shortly after I drove off from the shop that the rough/shaky idle HAD NOT been fixed by the plugs and wires upgrade. I guess I would say it's a little better, but still not the smooth running to which I've grown accustomed. Instead, there's an intermittent, though frequent, shutter felt when idling.
Any thoughts on what may be causing this? Is it possible the plugs/wires were not inset properly? I supposed I could take it back to the repair shop or the dealer for additional diagnosis, but I'm already in this repair $1,100 (and that's with an extended warranty).
On the plus side, the power seems fine and is perhaps improved with the upgraded plugs/wires. Hopefully when the larger problem is fixed, there will be an even more marked improvement.
Sadly, I could tell shortly after I drove off from the shop that the rough/shaky idle HAD NOT been fixed by the plugs and wires upgrade. I guess I would say it's a little better, but still not the smooth running to which I've grown accustomed. Instead, there's an intermittent, though frequent, shutter felt when idling.
Any thoughts on what may be causing this? Is it possible the plugs/wires were not inset properly? I supposed I could take it back to the repair shop or the dealer for additional diagnosis, but I'm already in this repair $1,100 (and that's with an extended warranty).
On the plus side, the power seems fine and is perhaps improved with the upgraded plugs/wires. Hopefully when the larger problem is fixed, there will be an even more marked improvement.
Thread Starter
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Overlanding
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
Thanks Mike. I just sent you my mobile phone number via a PM.
The high repair bill was a damn shame and could have been reduced if I had taken my truck straight to the local repair shop instead of taking it first to the LR dealer. I'm not much for do-it-yourself auto repair (although that's about the only do-it-yourself I won't attempt). The primary reason I took it to the dealer for diagnosis is because I have an extended warranty and repairs there typically don't cost me a dime beyond my $200 deductible.
After TWO DAYS of investigation, the LR service tech first thought the #3 misfire was caused by coolant leaking onto the coil packs. Then he deduced it was just worn out wires after a bit more examination (i.e. two more days in the shop).
Once the problem was diagnosed as "normal wear and tear", my warranty wasn't applicable. The LR dealer here in Chicago quoted me a WHOPPING $1,400 for the plugs and wires repair. That seemed insane to me, so I decided to just pay the dealer's diagnostic fee of $185 and take it to a local, reputable shop that I'd dealt with before.
The independent shop similarly diagnosed the cylinder misfire but also surmised that the intake gasket was shot and the fuel line was dirty, potentially aggravating the problem. I purchased the Magnacors and Bosch+4 parts myself as the shop couldn't supply these brands for some reason. These ran about $140. As for the labor, my warranty covered the intake gasket but I had to pay for the plugs/wires and fuel line labor myself.
In case anyone's curious (or just wishes to laugh at me), here's how it all broke down:
LR Dealer Diagnostic Fee: $185
Magnacor Wires from Apex: $86
8 Bosch+4 Plugs from auto parts store: $55
Warranty Deductible (for intake gasket): $200
Plugs and Wires Repair: $475
Fuel Line Cleaning: $110
TOTAL: $1,111
Since the repair sadly didn't solve the rough/shuttering idle, I'm debating on what to do next. I hate to spend another dime on repairs that are not targeted at the problem, but I imagine that's exactly what I'll have to do in order to get the engine back to where it should be.
Still, I do love the truck.
The high repair bill was a damn shame and could have been reduced if I had taken my truck straight to the local repair shop instead of taking it first to the LR dealer. I'm not much for do-it-yourself auto repair (although that's about the only do-it-yourself I won't attempt). The primary reason I took it to the dealer for diagnosis is because I have an extended warranty and repairs there typically don't cost me a dime beyond my $200 deductible.
After TWO DAYS of investigation, the LR service tech first thought the #3 misfire was caused by coolant leaking onto the coil packs. Then he deduced it was just worn out wires after a bit more examination (i.e. two more days in the shop).
Once the problem was diagnosed as "normal wear and tear", my warranty wasn't applicable. The LR dealer here in Chicago quoted me a WHOPPING $1,400 for the plugs and wires repair. That seemed insane to me, so I decided to just pay the dealer's diagnostic fee of $185 and take it to a local, reputable shop that I'd dealt with before.
The independent shop similarly diagnosed the cylinder misfire but also surmised that the intake gasket was shot and the fuel line was dirty, potentially aggravating the problem. I purchased the Magnacors and Bosch+4 parts myself as the shop couldn't supply these brands for some reason. These ran about $140. As for the labor, my warranty covered the intake gasket but I had to pay for the plugs/wires and fuel line labor myself.
In case anyone's curious (or just wishes to laugh at me), here's how it all broke down:
LR Dealer Diagnostic Fee: $185
Magnacor Wires from Apex: $86
8 Bosch+4 Plugs from auto parts store: $55
Warranty Deductible (for intake gasket): $200
Plugs and Wires Repair: $475
Fuel Line Cleaning: $110
TOTAL: $1,111
Since the repair sadly didn't solve the rough/shuttering idle, I'm debating on what to do next. I hate to spend another dime on repairs that are not targeted at the problem, but I imagine that's exactly what I'll have to do in order to get the engine back to where it should be.
Still, I do love the truck.
Last edited by tcbinaflash; Jun 2, 2009 at 05:41 PM.
Camel Trophy
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 4,959
Likes: 11
From: Tulsa, OK
What part of the country are you in? There may be someone on here that may want to help.
Are you loosing coolant?
And again, IS YOUR CHECK ENGINE LIGHT ON? (I did it in caps so you would see, I am by no means yelling at you ) =)
Are you loosing coolant?
And again, IS YOUR CHECK ENGINE LIGHT ON? (I did it in caps so you would see, I am by no means yelling at you ) =)
Thanks Mike. I just sent you my mobile phone number via a PM.
The high repair bill was a damn shame and could have been reduced if I had taken my truck straight to the local repair shop instead of taking it first to the LR dealer. I'm not much for do-it-yourself auto repair (although that's about the only do-it-yourself I won't attempt). The primary reason I took it to the dealer for diagnosis is because I have an extended warranty and repairs there typically don't cost me a dime beyond my $200 deductible.
After TWO DAYS of investigation, the LR service tech first thought the #3 misfire was caused by coolant leaking onto the coil packs. Then he deduced it was just worn out wires after a bit more examination (i.e. two more days in the shop).
Once the problem was diagnosed as "normal wear and tear", my warranty wasn't applicable. The LR dealer here in Chicago quoted me a WHOPPING $1,400 for the plugs and wires repair. That seemed insane to me, so I decided to just pay the dealer's diagnostic fee of $185 and take it to a local, reputable shop that I'd dealt with before.
The independent shop similarly diagnosed the cylinder misfire but also surmised that the intake gasket was shot and the fuel line was dirty, potentially aggravating the problem. I purchased the Magnacors and Bosch+4 parts myself as the shop couldn't supply these brands for some reason. These ran about $140. As for the labor, my warranty covered the intake gasket but I had to pay for the plugs/wires and fuel line labor myself.
In case anyone's curious (or just wishes to laugh at me), here's how it all broke down:
LR Dealer Diagnostic Fee: $185
Magnacor Wires from Apex: $86
8 Bosch+4 Plugs from auto parts store: $55
Warranty Deductible (for intake gasket): $200
Plugs and Wires Repair: $475
Fuel Line Cleaning: $110
TOTAL: $1,111
Since the repair sadly didn't solve the rough/shuttering idle, I'm debating on what to do next. I hate to spend another dime on repairs that are not targeted at the problem, but I imagine that's exactly what I'll have to do in order to get the engine back to where it should be.
Still, I do love the truck.
The high repair bill was a damn shame and could have been reduced if I had taken my truck straight to the local repair shop instead of taking it first to the LR dealer. I'm not much for do-it-yourself auto repair (although that's about the only do-it-yourself I won't attempt). The primary reason I took it to the dealer for diagnosis is because I have an extended warranty and repairs there typically don't cost me a dime beyond my $200 deductible.
After TWO DAYS of investigation, the LR service tech first thought the #3 misfire was caused by coolant leaking onto the coil packs. Then he deduced it was just worn out wires after a bit more examination (i.e. two more days in the shop).
Once the problem was diagnosed as "normal wear and tear", my warranty wasn't applicable. The LR dealer here in Chicago quoted me a WHOPPING $1,400 for the plugs and wires repair. That seemed insane to me, so I decided to just pay the dealer's diagnostic fee of $185 and take it to a local, reputable shop that I'd dealt with before.
The independent shop similarly diagnosed the cylinder misfire but also surmised that the intake gasket was shot and the fuel line was dirty, potentially aggravating the problem. I purchased the Magnacors and Bosch+4 parts myself as the shop couldn't supply these brands for some reason. These ran about $140. As for the labor, my warranty covered the intake gasket but I had to pay for the plugs/wires and fuel line labor myself.
In case anyone's curious (or just wishes to laugh at me), here's how it all broke down:
LR Dealer Diagnostic Fee: $185
Magnacor Wires from Apex: $86
8 Bosch+4 Plugs from auto parts store: $55
Warranty Deductible (for intake gasket): $200
Plugs and Wires Repair: $475
Fuel Line Cleaning: $110
TOTAL: $1,111
Since the repair sadly didn't solve the rough/shuttering idle, I'm debating on what to do next. I hate to spend another dime on repairs that are not targeted at the problem, but I imagine that's exactly what I'll have to do in order to get the engine back to where it should be.
Still, I do love the truck.
That gasket that you paid $200 for...http://roverparts.com/Parts/ERR6621.cfm
Warrenties NEVER cover wear and tear, so the first thing you should have done was ask us (free), then do the tune up which would have cost you $700 instead of the a$$ raping $1,100 that you paid.
As for cleaning the fuel lines, thats a ripe off, no such thing.
Since you have a warrenty that is going to rape you every time you use it, price the parts/repairs FIRST, it might be cheaper to buy the part without the warrenty, just like that intake gasket.
Word to the wise...take the cost of the extended warrenty and open a Money Market Account, when youi need a repair that you cant pay for without starving, draw off your MM account.
If you cannot afford that much money up front then open a MM account with $50, then make payments to it once a week, whatever you can afford, $50 is good $100 is better.
If you never use it youi are that much closer to retirement, if you use it for car repairs then it wont hurt your pocketbook or max out your credit card.
Do as much maintence as you can yourself, if you dont want to or cant that is fine, but find a good shop that you can trust and use them and only them, build a reputation with them and they will treat you good.
I have a shop like that and every once in awhile I bring them a 18" pepperoni pizza, I take a slice and then leave the rest for them and it costs me $10, they love me and get me right in and cheap labor and I can buy my own parts.
As for why the shop could not get those parts for you, they have their own suppliers that they use and if they dont carry them then the shop cant get them for you.
Now for the next step...did you take it in for a tune up or to diagnois a rough idle?
If it was for the latter what did the shop tell you that you needed?