Potential new owner
#11
04-01-2019, 10:42 PM
I disagree with almost everything in this post.
Let me just say you and the other Toyota guy thank you. I’m not looking for a daily driver, I’m looking to get a cheaper trail rig that I will probably take out a few times a month.
I get 16-17 mpg driving 75 mph, 320-350 miles. You want better mileage, slow down. 4Runner barely gets better, C&D observed mpg is 17 - OP what do you get with yours?
I’ve got a 3 inch lift 35” 10 ply tires and armor, I average around 13mpg. Honestly the only driving benefit I’m seeing it’s the ability to cruise around 80 mph /130 kph
Absolutely does not, I have owned 12 and never put premium in it. Regular might decrease the power a bit, but it already makes more torque than the 4runner anyway. If you wanted a fast truck, buy a Raptor.
one of the reasons I’m buying it is to not depleat my TRX Rebel fund to get a classic show truck. Most people say I only run 91 oct not knowing what it means. I’ve got a car tuned for 104 and I still run 85 in it going to the track or on cruises. Just change the tune to run 91.
Same as the Toyota. The main difference is the plastic cooling systems components on the Toyota are higher quality and it is less likely to overheat
Toyota uses a bit more QC on their line it seems. If a Toyota breaks down it leaves you stranded, LRs are more field expedient repairable.
Commonly replaced parts are cheap - ignition coils, water pumps, radiators, coolant bottles, idler pulleys, window rollers, door lock motors.
NEVER let a non-LR shop work on it, disaster will ensue guaranteed.
Why is this? They seem super easy to work on?
I have had 12, had one that needed the WABCO mod. Most of the rest of the issues are due to either people not properly placing the abs sensor wiring in the holders after a brake job, or worn hubs (usually over 150k on the clock).
I don’t understand this and need to look into it more
This actually the one thing that is a crap design from LR. The drain pans have too many leak paths, the drain tubes were crappy plastic from the factory and poorly sealed. These can be fixed with judicious application of silicone caulk, but its a crappy design for sure. I would love to have a discussion with the engineering manager responsible for that design.
Let me just say you and the other Toyota guy thank you. I’m not looking for a daily driver, I’m looking to get a cheaper trail rig that I will probably take out a few times a month.
I get 16-17 mpg driving 75 mph, 320-350 miles. You want better mileage, slow down. 4Runner barely gets better, C&D observed mpg is 17 - OP what do you get with yours?
I’ve got a 3 inch lift 35” 10 ply tires and armor, I average around 13mpg. Honestly the only driving benefit I’m seeing it’s the ability to cruise around 80 mph /130 kph
Absolutely does not, I have owned 12 and never put premium in it. Regular might decrease the power a bit, but it already makes more torque than the 4runner anyway. If you wanted a fast truck, buy a Raptor.
one of the reasons I’m buying it is to not depleat my TRX Rebel fund to get a classic show truck. Most people say I only run 91 oct not knowing what it means. I’ve got a car tuned for 104 and I still run 85 in it going to the track or on cruises. Just change the tune to run 91.
Same as the Toyota. The main difference is the plastic cooling systems components on the Toyota are higher quality and it is less likely to overheat
Toyota uses a bit more QC on their line it seems. If a Toyota breaks down it leaves you stranded, LRs are more field expedient repairable.
Commonly replaced parts are cheap - ignition coils, water pumps, radiators, coolant bottles, idler pulleys, window rollers, door lock motors.
NEVER let a non-LR shop work on it, disaster will ensue guaranteed.
Why is this? They seem super easy to work on?
I have had 12, had one that needed the WABCO mod. Most of the rest of the issues are due to either people not properly placing the abs sensor wiring in the holders after a brake job, or worn hubs (usually over 150k on the clock).
I don’t understand this and need to look into it more
This actually the one thing that is a crap design from LR. The drain pans have too many leak paths, the drain tubes were crappy plastic from the factory and poorly sealed. These can be fixed with judicious application of silicone caulk, but its a crappy design for sure. I would love to have a discussion with the engineering manager responsible for that design.
Excuse proff reading and stuff, my dog stole my other hand so I’m responding one handed. Really thanks!!
#12
04-02-2019, 10:41 AM
Mikeiy, non rover shops mostly because they do not have either the tools - Code reader, 12 point sockets various other tools or the Rave manual for specific directions. They need a few specific procedures followed with respect to the cooling system, but or the most part they are not rocket science. The issue is the same as finding a decent mechanic for any vehicle, but older not common vehicles are always worse.
The Nissan dealer local to me screwed up my 98 Pathfinder, and the nearest actual LR dealer is not recommended for service by guys with Defenders, Series trucks and Disco's.
But if you buying one as weekend truck and trail rig and enjoy wrenching go for it. I have talked to few people who got into these thinking they are basically drive and forget,and they whined about how awful they are. When the problem was they bought a 14 year truck that had been neglected and did not want to spend any money on it.
If you read the list of what to look for, when buying and what people wrote in this post, and are comfortable with all the quibbles then have it. But get a year with the CDL and Lever in place it does make a real difference to off road performance
The Nissan dealer local to me screwed up my 98 Pathfinder, and the nearest actual LR dealer is not recommended for service by guys with Defenders, Series trucks and Disco's.
But if you buying one as weekend truck and trail rig and enjoy wrenching go for it. I have talked to few people who got into these thinking they are basically drive and forget,and they whined about how awful they are. When the problem was they bought a 14 year truck that had been neglected and did not want to spend any money on it.
If you read the list of what to look for, when buying and what people wrote in this post, and are comfortable with all the quibbles then have it. But get a year with the CDL and Lever in place it does make a real difference to off road performance
#13
04-02-2019, 06:01 PM
Camel Trophy
The LR is rare enough and different enough from the average universal asian car or universal american car or even the German cars to throw most shops for a loop. The cooling system is different, the pcv valve, the coils, the sensors, the ecu's, the wiring, etc. On top of that most read the owner as "Rich" so half the time they will tell you that you need an new engine or a boatload of parts, when neither is true.
I have bought two Discos off owners that came straight from the repair shop. One had a plugged valve cover baffle and had blown the lower intake end seals out and was leaking a quart of oil every 30 miles. The PO paid to have the gasket replaced, when it blew out again the shop told him the motor was worn out (129 on the clock) and needed a new engine. Paid $700 for that one, mint FL truck I am still driving today.
The other one was a girl in NC, stuck thermostat so it was overheating fast and ticking when hot. Took it to two shops one of which was the dealer and they both told her it needed a new engine. She didn't even blow the hg because she would turn it off in the middle of traffic before it got too hot. I put a 180 thermostat in it and it never ticked again. I think I paid $700 for that one too.
I have bought two Discos off owners that came straight from the repair shop. One had a plugged valve cover baffle and had blown the lower intake end seals out and was leaking a quart of oil every 30 miles. The PO paid to have the gasket replaced, when it blew out again the shop told him the motor was worn out (129 on the clock) and needed a new engine. Paid $700 for that one, mint FL truck I am still driving today.
The other one was a girl in NC, stuck thermostat so it was overheating fast and ticking when hot. Took it to two shops one of which was the dealer and they both told her it needed a new engine. She didn't even blow the hg because she would turn it off in the middle of traffic before it got too hot. I put a 180 thermostat in it and it never ticked again. I think I paid $700 for that one too.
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