Power steering pump hose replacement DIY Tips
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Drifting
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 36
Likes: 6
From: Manchester, MA
Power steering pump hose replacement DIY Tips
I replaced my power steering pump a week or so ago, and it turns out my high pressure hose was rusted through and leaking. I changed it today and thought I would offer some tips. It was definitely a trial and error for a while, but in the end it is not that difficult, with patience. Sorry no pics but It was snowing, and I was covered in power steering fluid. Just some tips to keep you sane.
First off, I did this on ramps and I think that worked well. No need to take any wheels off, or do anything with the radiator or front bumper, grill etc. You may think it is easier to pull the wheel off and put it on a jackstand, but you are sitting partly under the truck a good amount of time, and it is an unnecessary risk. The tire is not really in the way enough to make a difference. It may help to turn it hard left if you are doing this on the ground (entirely possible), but I wasn't doing that because of the ramps.
Take off the Air intake and MAF and move it out of the way.
Take out the whole air box as it will make access easier. The intake goes into the fender, and there are 2 nylon nuts holding that, but there are no other bolts holding it down. It has pegs on the bottom that snap in. Some gentle persuasion and it will come out. You may find it easier to pull the PS Steering reservoir out of it's bracket and move it aside.
Now look in through the driver's side (on Left hand drive trucks) wheel well and there is a plastic panel alongside/above the frame rail (it's tucked in behind the sway bar in the front.) Basically if you are looking sitting and looking straight at the tire, look past at the inner fender and you've got it. It's held on with 3 screws. 2 near the shock and 1 at the front. They are Phillips, but I used a 8mm socket. Because of the way the panel is formed, you may not be able to take it off, but you can slide it straight up into the engine bay to get some room. Just leave it there, not need to pull it all the way out.
The HP line runs under the radiator across the front of the truck, and then back. Take your license plate off and remove the metal mesh and can get access to the two brackets. The mesh is help on by 4 8mm bolts and 4 clips at the bottom. There is a plastic panel covering the PS Hose, but you will see the two bolts that go through the panel and through the brackets. My bolts were rusted as well and stripped. You have just enough room to grind them down, drill and retap for another bolt if you have to (I Did.) Pull the bolts out and take the panel off and you will see the metal hose in all it's glory. You will not be able to get the brackets off the hose itself as there is a bolt at the top that you can't access until it is out.
Unbolt the PS line as it goes into the PS Pump. It is a 16mm open end. The other fitting is down and back from the fitting to the pump (If you are leaning in over the fender.) It is held on by a plate and a 10mm bolt. Once it is unbolted, pull it straight up to unseat it. Check out your new line for reference.
Now go back into the fender well, and with some finagling, you can pull it straight out the side of the truck. Mine was so brittle, I carefully broke it in two peices and it came right out. If you do this, looking through the bumper where it ran under the radiator, use some good snips or mini bolt cutter and cut is at close the the driver's side frame rail as possible. If you decide to take it out in one piece and leave the brackets on, it will still come out, but be careful and go slow as you can damage the radiator and other stuff pulling it through.
Before I fed in the new hose, I took the chance to do some cleaning of the front cross member with a wire brush and put a coat of black spray paint on it.
With the new hose, I would recommend leaving the brackets off until you get it fed back into position. First, it is easier to put the o-rings on while you have it outside the truck. Then feed it back though the wheel well like the old one came out. Before you connect it to the PS Pump, you have some room to put the brackets back on. Keep in mind that once the brackets are on, you can't move them, so do your best to position them right the first time. You have to attach the brackets to the hose first, but I would not attach them to the frame until you get the connections made at the pump. You may go fiddling near the pump, back the the front and back a few times before everything sits like it is supposed to. once everything is in position, make the connections at the pumps, and then bolt the brackets to the frame. Don't forget that you have to put the plastic panel back on before you thread the bolts as it uses them to hold it in place. While your there you might as well put your mesh back on and re-attach your license plate. You are don under the truck.
After that it is a matter of putting things back together in the engine bay (Air box, MAF, Wheel Well panel etc...) and bleeding it. If you moved the PS Reservoir, there may be a bundle of wire underneath that keeps it from seating all the way, so move them to the side and it will drop into place.
I took the messy way of bleeding it and used the nipple on top of the steering box. If you look straight down at the top of the steering box, you will see it on top toward the driver's side. There may be a plastic cap on it (It's gray, but will likely be covered in dirt/grime) Pop that off. I used an 11mm socket wrench with a bunch of extensions on it to reach it. If you get it on the nut, you can position it so you can run the engine with it in place and not have to worry about it hitting the fan etc. I was able to cycle through the steering and get it bled. I used about 3 qts of fluid until it ran clear. Put a big drip pan underneath the steering box and you will catch most of it.
I highly recommend decreasing your engine and rinsing parts of it. This way, it you didn't quite snug something up, you will be able to identify the leak. Most likely it will be the PS line as it goes into the Pump, and will leak on to the top of the steering box.
Hope this helps.
First off, I did this on ramps and I think that worked well. No need to take any wheels off, or do anything with the radiator or front bumper, grill etc. You may think it is easier to pull the wheel off and put it on a jackstand, but you are sitting partly under the truck a good amount of time, and it is an unnecessary risk. The tire is not really in the way enough to make a difference. It may help to turn it hard left if you are doing this on the ground (entirely possible), but I wasn't doing that because of the ramps.
Take off the Air intake and MAF and move it out of the way.
Take out the whole air box as it will make access easier. The intake goes into the fender, and there are 2 nylon nuts holding that, but there are no other bolts holding it down. It has pegs on the bottom that snap in. Some gentle persuasion and it will come out. You may find it easier to pull the PS Steering reservoir out of it's bracket and move it aside.
Now look in through the driver's side (on Left hand drive trucks) wheel well and there is a plastic panel alongside/above the frame rail (it's tucked in behind the sway bar in the front.) Basically if you are looking sitting and looking straight at the tire, look past at the inner fender and you've got it. It's held on with 3 screws. 2 near the shock and 1 at the front. They are Phillips, but I used a 8mm socket. Because of the way the panel is formed, you may not be able to take it off, but you can slide it straight up into the engine bay to get some room. Just leave it there, not need to pull it all the way out.
The HP line runs under the radiator across the front of the truck, and then back. Take your license plate off and remove the metal mesh and can get access to the two brackets. The mesh is help on by 4 8mm bolts and 4 clips at the bottom. There is a plastic panel covering the PS Hose, but you will see the two bolts that go through the panel and through the brackets. My bolts were rusted as well and stripped. You have just enough room to grind them down, drill and retap for another bolt if you have to (I Did.) Pull the bolts out and take the panel off and you will see the metal hose in all it's glory. You will not be able to get the brackets off the hose itself as there is a bolt at the top that you can't access until it is out.
Unbolt the PS line as it goes into the PS Pump. It is a 16mm open end. The other fitting is down and back from the fitting to the pump (If you are leaning in over the fender.) It is held on by a plate and a 10mm bolt. Once it is unbolted, pull it straight up to unseat it. Check out your new line for reference.
Now go back into the fender well, and with some finagling, you can pull it straight out the side of the truck. Mine was so brittle, I carefully broke it in two peices and it came right out. If you do this, looking through the bumper where it ran under the radiator, use some good snips or mini bolt cutter and cut is at close the the driver's side frame rail as possible. If you decide to take it out in one piece and leave the brackets on, it will still come out, but be careful and go slow as you can damage the radiator and other stuff pulling it through.
Before I fed in the new hose, I took the chance to do some cleaning of the front cross member with a wire brush and put a coat of black spray paint on it.
With the new hose, I would recommend leaving the brackets off until you get it fed back into position. First, it is easier to put the o-rings on while you have it outside the truck. Then feed it back though the wheel well like the old one came out. Before you connect it to the PS Pump, you have some room to put the brackets back on. Keep in mind that once the brackets are on, you can't move them, so do your best to position them right the first time. You have to attach the brackets to the hose first, but I would not attach them to the frame until you get the connections made at the pump. You may go fiddling near the pump, back the the front and back a few times before everything sits like it is supposed to. once everything is in position, make the connections at the pumps, and then bolt the brackets to the frame. Don't forget that you have to put the plastic panel back on before you thread the bolts as it uses them to hold it in place. While your there you might as well put your mesh back on and re-attach your license plate. You are don under the truck.
After that it is a matter of putting things back together in the engine bay (Air box, MAF, Wheel Well panel etc...) and bleeding it. If you moved the PS Reservoir, there may be a bundle of wire underneath that keeps it from seating all the way, so move them to the side and it will drop into place.
I took the messy way of bleeding it and used the nipple on top of the steering box. If you look straight down at the top of the steering box, you will see it on top toward the driver's side. There may be a plastic cap on it (It's gray, but will likely be covered in dirt/grime) Pop that off. I used an 11mm socket wrench with a bunch of extensions on it to reach it. If you get it on the nut, you can position it so you can run the engine with it in place and not have to worry about it hitting the fan etc. I was able to cycle through the steering and get it bled. I used about 3 qts of fluid until it ran clear. Put a big drip pan underneath the steering box and you will catch most of it.
I highly recommend decreasing your engine and rinsing parts of it. This way, it you didn't quite snug something up, you will be able to identify the leak. Most likely it will be the PS line as it goes into the Pump, and will leak on to the top of the steering box.
Hope this helps.
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 35
Likes: 1
I replaced my power steering pump a week or so ago, and it turns out my high pressure hose was rusted through and leaking. I changed it today and thought I would offer some tips. It was definitely a trial and error for a while, but in the end it is not that difficult, with patience. Sorry no pics but It was snowing, and I was covered in power steering fluid. Just some tips to keep you sane.
First off, I did this on ramps and I think that worked well. No need to take any wheels off, or do anything with the radiator or front bumper, grill etc. You may think it is easier to pull the wheel off and put it on a jackstand, but you are sitting partly under the truck a good amount of time, and it is an unnecessary risk. The tire is not really in the way enough to make a difference. It may help to turn it hard left if you are doing this on the ground (entirely possible), but I wasn't doing that because of the ramps.
Take off the Air intake and MAF and move it out of the way.
Take out the whole air box as it will make access easier. The intake goes into the fender, and there are 2 nylon nuts holding that, but there are no other bolts holding it down. It has pegs on the bottom that snap in. Some gentle persuasion and it will come out. You may find it easier to pull the PS Steering reservoir out of it's bracket and move it aside.
Now look in through the driver's side (on Left hand drive trucks) wheel well and there is a plastic panel alongside/above the frame rail (it's tucked in behind the sway bar in the front.) Basically if you are looking sitting and looking straight at the tire, look past at the inner fender and you've got it. It's held on with 3 screws. 2 near the shock and 1 at the front. They are Phillips, but I used a 8mm socket. Because of the way the panel is formed, you may not be able to take it off, but you can slide it straight up into the engine bay to get some room. Just leave it there, not need to pull it all the way out.
The HP line runs under the radiator across the front of the truck, and then back. Take your license plate off and remove the metal mesh and can get access to the two brackets. The mesh is help on by 4 8mm bolts and 4 clips at the bottom. There is a plastic panel covering the PS Hose, but you will see the two bolts that go through the panel and through the brackets. My bolts were rusted as well and stripped. You have just enough room to grind them down, drill and retap for another bolt if you have to (I Did.) Pull the bolts out and take the panel off and you will see the metal hose in all it's glory. You will not be able to get the brackets off the hose itself as there is a bolt at the top that you can't access until it is out.
Unbolt the PS line as it goes into the PS Pump. It is a 16mm open end. The other fitting is down and back from the fitting to the pump (If you are leaning in over the fender.) It is held on by a plate and a 10mm bolt. Once it is unbolted, pull it straight up to unseat it. Check out your new line for reference.
Now go back into the fender well, and with some finagling, you can pull it straight out the side of the truck. Mine was so brittle, I carefully broke it in two peices and it came right out. If you do this, looking through the bumper where it ran under the radiator, use some good snips or mini bolt cutter and cut is at close the the driver's side frame rail as possible. If you decide to take it out in one piece and leave the brackets on, it will still come out, but be careful and go slow as you can damage the radiator and other stuff pulling it through.
Before I fed in the new hose, I took the chance to do some cleaning of the front cross member with a wire brush and put a coat of black spray paint on it.
With the new hose, I would recommend leaving the brackets off until you get it fed back into position. First, it is easier to put the o-rings on while you have it outside the truck. Then feed it back though the wheel well like the old one came out. Before you connect it to the PS Pump, you have some room to put the brackets back on. Keep in mind that once the brackets are on, you can't move them, so do your best to position them right the first time. You have to attach the brackets to the hose first, but I would not attach them to the frame until you get the connections made at the pump. You may go fiddling near the pump, back the the front and back a few times before everything sits like it is supposed to. once everything is in position, make the connections at the pumps, and then bolt the brackets to the frame. Don't forget that you have to put the plastic panel back on before you thread the bolts as it uses them to hold it in place. While your there you might as well put your mesh back on and re-attach your license plate. You are don under the truck.
After that it is a matter of putting things back together in the engine bay (Air box, MAF, Wheel Well panel etc...) and bleeding it. If you moved the PS Reservoir, there may be a bundle of wire underneath that keeps it from seating all the way, so move them to the side and it will drop into place.
I took the messy way of bleeding it and used the nipple on top of the steering box. If you look straight down at the top of the steering box, you will see it on top toward the driver's side. There may be a plastic cap on it (It's gray, but will likely be covered in dirt/grime) Pop that off. I used an 11mm socket wrench with a bunch of extensions on it to reach it. If you get it on the nut, you can position it so you can run the engine with it in place and not have to worry about it hitting the fan etc. I was able to cycle through the steering and get it bled. I used about 3 qts of fluid until it ran clear. Put a big drip pan underneath the steering box and you will catch most of it.
I highly recommend decreasing your engine and rinsing parts of it. This way, it you didn't quite snug something up, you will be able to identify the leak. Most likely it will be the PS line as it goes into the Pump, and will leak on to the top of the steering box.
Hope this helps.
First off, I did this on ramps and I think that worked well. No need to take any wheels off, or do anything with the radiator or front bumper, grill etc. You may think it is easier to pull the wheel off and put it on a jackstand, but you are sitting partly under the truck a good amount of time, and it is an unnecessary risk. The tire is not really in the way enough to make a difference. It may help to turn it hard left if you are doing this on the ground (entirely possible), but I wasn't doing that because of the ramps.
Take off the Air intake and MAF and move it out of the way.
Take out the whole air box as it will make access easier. The intake goes into the fender, and there are 2 nylon nuts holding that, but there are no other bolts holding it down. It has pegs on the bottom that snap in. Some gentle persuasion and it will come out. You may find it easier to pull the PS Steering reservoir out of it's bracket and move it aside.
Now look in through the driver's side (on Left hand drive trucks) wheel well and there is a plastic panel alongside/above the frame rail (it's tucked in behind the sway bar in the front.) Basically if you are looking sitting and looking straight at the tire, look past at the inner fender and you've got it. It's held on with 3 screws. 2 near the shock and 1 at the front. They are Phillips, but I used a 8mm socket. Because of the way the panel is formed, you may not be able to take it off, but you can slide it straight up into the engine bay to get some room. Just leave it there, not need to pull it all the way out.
The HP line runs under the radiator across the front of the truck, and then back. Take your license plate off and remove the metal mesh and can get access to the two brackets. The mesh is help on by 4 8mm bolts and 4 clips at the bottom. There is a plastic panel covering the PS Hose, but you will see the two bolts that go through the panel and through the brackets. My bolts were rusted as well and stripped. You have just enough room to grind them down, drill and retap for another bolt if you have to (I Did.) Pull the bolts out and take the panel off and you will see the metal hose in all it's glory. You will not be able to get the brackets off the hose itself as there is a bolt at the top that you can't access until it is out.
Unbolt the PS line as it goes into the PS Pump. It is a 16mm open end. The other fitting is down and back from the fitting to the pump (If you are leaning in over the fender.) It is held on by a plate and a 10mm bolt. Once it is unbolted, pull it straight up to unseat it. Check out your new line for reference.
Now go back into the fender well, and with some finagling, you can pull it straight out the side of the truck. Mine was so brittle, I carefully broke it in two peices and it came right out. If you do this, looking through the bumper where it ran under the radiator, use some good snips or mini bolt cutter and cut is at close the the driver's side frame rail as possible. If you decide to take it out in one piece and leave the brackets on, it will still come out, but be careful and go slow as you can damage the radiator and other stuff pulling it through.
Before I fed in the new hose, I took the chance to do some cleaning of the front cross member with a wire brush and put a coat of black spray paint on it.
With the new hose, I would recommend leaving the brackets off until you get it fed back into position. First, it is easier to put the o-rings on while you have it outside the truck. Then feed it back though the wheel well like the old one came out. Before you connect it to the PS Pump, you have some room to put the brackets back on. Keep in mind that once the brackets are on, you can't move them, so do your best to position them right the first time. You have to attach the brackets to the hose first, but I would not attach them to the frame until you get the connections made at the pump. You may go fiddling near the pump, back the the front and back a few times before everything sits like it is supposed to. once everything is in position, make the connections at the pumps, and then bolt the brackets to the frame. Don't forget that you have to put the plastic panel back on before you thread the bolts as it uses them to hold it in place. While your there you might as well put your mesh back on and re-attach your license plate. You are don under the truck.
After that it is a matter of putting things back together in the engine bay (Air box, MAF, Wheel Well panel etc...) and bleeding it. If you moved the PS Reservoir, there may be a bundle of wire underneath that keeps it from seating all the way, so move them to the side and it will drop into place.
I took the messy way of bleeding it and used the nipple on top of the steering box. If you look straight down at the top of the steering box, you will see it on top toward the driver's side. There may be a plastic cap on it (It's gray, but will likely be covered in dirt/grime) Pop that off. I used an 11mm socket wrench with a bunch of extensions on it to reach it. If you get it on the nut, you can position it so you can run the engine with it in place and not have to worry about it hitting the fan etc. I was able to cycle through the steering and get it bled. I used about 3 qts of fluid until it ran clear. Put a big drip pan underneath the steering box and you will catch most of it.
I highly recommend decreasing your engine and rinsing parts of it. This way, it you didn't quite snug something up, you will be able to identify the leak. Most likely it will be the PS line as it goes into the Pump, and will leak on to the top of the steering box.
Hope this helps.
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 35
Likes: 1
How do I find out if it has a cooler or just a cooling toob? The car is not handy to go an look at just now.
Last edited by Steve Jepson; Mar 4, 2019 at 05:55 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 35
Likes: 1
OK - replaced the pump and hoses. Got it very clean with degreasers and power washing, good wipe down... so I can see if there are any more leaks. The old pump was probably still functioning ok, but it does not spin real easy like the new one does. Also, there was a very questionable little green rubber o-ring on the pressure tube coming out of the pump. Also, the nut the tightens that connection was loose to the touch when I removed it. Probably was leaking there too. Anyway, now that it is all very clean, I can see that there is a leak somewhere around the top of the steering box. It's hard to tell. The fluid is blown all around by the fan.
I am guessing the leak is around one of the 4 bolts I see on the top of the steering box. ? Or perhaps a gasket for the lid of the steering box ? In any case, that is my next pursuit in the search for the PS fluid leak. Anyone know what the torque ( if there is any listed) for the 4 bolts that hold the lid of the PS box on ?
I am guessing the leak is around one of the 4 bolts I see on the top of the steering box. ? Or perhaps a gasket for the lid of the steering box ? In any case, that is my next pursuit in the search for the PS fluid leak. Anyone know what the torque ( if there is any listed) for the 4 bolts that hold the lid of the PS box on ?
Last edited by Steve Jepson; Mar 10, 2019 at 04:31 PM.