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Powertrain Rebuild Options

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  #11  
Old 02-21-2023, 08:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Alex_M
I agree, your numbers do not look all that bad. A little above average in a couple places, sure, but remember you're talking about parts per million. Those are still very small numbers. Were it mine, I'd throw a head gasket in it and run it. While you've got it apart and easy access, go ahead and throw a new crank sensor in it.

As for tranny and t-case... killer shipping price. As far as upgraded 22 vs standard rebuilt 24, I'd call em up and ask. Sounds to me like 6 of one, half dozen of the other. Won't go wrong either way. Like Extinct said, these are really robust trannys. You're starting to see a failure here and there, but really they're very uncommon. I've dealt with a lot of bad trannys, but for all the D2s I've owned I've never had one with a bad trans.

Now, if you decide to rebuild the motor anyway - there is no way I would spend that much money and not upgrade to 4.6.
You guys are slowly convincing me to just run the thing. I just really like the sound of a 300HP RV8... Maybe a project for a year or so from now. I'm dying to drive it again - after all I did pick the D2 over the recently departed new Defender and 911... My '78 BMW was supposed to be the temporary driver, but what I thought was a bad HG is a cracked head and ruined cylinder so maybe the money is best applied to that for the time being.

I'll reassess this weekend while I'm parting an '04. I have a bunch of good stuff coming off that onto mine, so fun times ahead regardless. (Also if anyone wants a rust free '04 shell, let me know.)
 
  #12  
Old 02-21-2023, 11:00 PM
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Originally Posted by kpd122
You still running that engine without major work? Makes me feel a little better. My UOA was done on the oil from the PO - no clue what it was or what viscosity. He told me "what the owners manual calls for", but that could be basically anything. I found a quart of Castrol 10-30 in the back, but hopefully it wasn't that. Way too thin for the desert out here. I was hoping to get another sample in with proper oil and more gentle driving, but the head gasket had other ideas.

It actually runs great, especially after new injectors. Obviously fixed the leaking down/flooding issue and even got rid of the slight idle hiccup. Cold starts are still a little rough, but I think the IAT in the MAF is no good. The temps looked about 15 degrees high.

I'm really only concerned about two noises it makes - the cold idle knock (not too severe) that almost goes away when warm, and this weird metallic noise that you can hear when revving the engine in park. As the RPM falls through 1800ish there's a weird higher-pitched metallic noise. Almost like a jingling noise.
If you have SAI, it might be one of the air control valves (silver cans) above either exhaust manifolds? I've noticed a rattle out of my driver-side valve on cold start up.
 
  #13  
Old 02-22-2023, 05:11 AM
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Originally Posted by kpd122
You still running that engine without major work? Makes me feel a little better. My UOA was done on the oil from the PO - no clue what it was or what viscosity. He told me "what the owners manual calls for", but that could be basically anything. I found a quart of Castrol 10-30 in the back, but hopefully it wasn't that. Way too thin for the desert out here. I was hoping to get another sample in with proper oil and more gentle driving, but the head gasket had other ideas.

It actually runs great, especially after new injectors. Obviously fixed the leaking down/flooding issue and even got rid of the slight idle hiccup. Cold starts are still a little rough, but I think the IAT in the MAF is no good. The temps looked about 15 degrees high.

I'm really only concerned about two noises it makes - the cold idle knock (not too severe) that almost goes away when warm, and this weird metallic noise that you can hear when revving the engine in park. As the RPM falls through 1800ish there's a weird higher-pitched metallic noise. Almost like a jingling noise.
Yeah, I did HG on it at some point, but that's all. Change the oil to some 15w40 Diesel and check your OP, if it is over about 12-14 hot idling then I would run it. Not sure I have ever heard cold idle know, might be exhaust leak. That jinging noise might be a cracked flexplate. I would not rev it in park or neutral too much, that is how you burn up the front clutch. The front pump seal leaks a little internally and applies a little pressure to the front clutch when revved, not enough to engage it but enough to burn up the clutches.
 
  #14  
Old 02-22-2023, 11:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Extinct
Yeah, I did HG on it at some point, but that's all. Change the oil to some 15w40 Diesel and check your OP, if it is over about 12-14 hot idling then I would run it. Not sure I have ever heard cold idle know, might be exhaust leak. That jinging noise might be a cracked flexplate. I would not rev it in park or neutral too much, that is how you burn up the front clutch. The front pump seal leaks a little internally and applies a little pressure to the front clutch when revved, not enough to engage it but enough to burn up the clutches.
I switched to Rotella 15-40 right when I got it. That quieted things down a bit. Hadn't thought about the flexplate being the issue... Makes me want to go back to my tear-it-all-apart idea, especially if I have to pull the trans in the next couple months. Not happy to hear about the front clutch issue either - I sat at about 2k RPM for like an hour last July when I bought it. Got stuck on a closed freeway at 118 degrees with a bad fan clutch and no electric fan.
 
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