Powertrain Rebuild Options
#11
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I agree, your numbers do not look all that bad. A little above average in a couple places, sure, but remember you're talking about parts per million. Those are still very small numbers. Were it mine, I'd throw a head gasket in it and run it. While you've got it apart and easy access, go ahead and throw a new crank sensor in it.
As for tranny and t-case... killer shipping price. As far as upgraded 22 vs standard rebuilt 24, I'd call em up and ask. Sounds to me like 6 of one, half dozen of the other. Won't go wrong either way. Like Extinct said, these are really robust trannys. You're starting to see a failure here and there, but really they're very uncommon. I've dealt with a lot of bad trannys, but for all the D2s I've owned I've never had one with a bad trans.
Now, if you decide to rebuild the motor anyway - there is no way I would spend that much money and not upgrade to 4.6.
As for tranny and t-case... killer shipping price. As far as upgraded 22 vs standard rebuilt 24, I'd call em up and ask. Sounds to me like 6 of one, half dozen of the other. Won't go wrong either way. Like Extinct said, these are really robust trannys. You're starting to see a failure here and there, but really they're very uncommon. I've dealt with a lot of bad trannys, but for all the D2s I've owned I've never had one with a bad trans.
Now, if you decide to rebuild the motor anyway - there is no way I would spend that much money and not upgrade to 4.6.
I'll reassess this weekend while I'm parting an '04. I have a bunch of good stuff coming off that onto mine, so fun times ahead regardless. (Also if anyone wants a rust free '04 shell, let me know.)
#12
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You still running that engine without major work? Makes me feel a little better. My UOA was done on the oil from the PO - no clue what it was or what viscosity. He told me "what the owners manual calls for", but that could be basically anything. I found a quart of Castrol 10-30 in the back, but hopefully it wasn't that. Way too thin for the desert out here. I was hoping to get another sample in with proper oil and more gentle driving, but the head gasket had other ideas.
It actually runs great, especially after new injectors. Obviously fixed the leaking down/flooding issue and even got rid of the slight idle hiccup. Cold starts are still a little rough, but I think the IAT in the MAF is no good. The temps looked about 15 degrees high.
I'm really only concerned about two noises it makes - the cold idle knock (not too severe) that almost goes away when warm, and this weird metallic noise that you can hear when revving the engine in park. As the RPM falls through 1800ish there's a weird higher-pitched metallic noise. Almost like a jingling noise.
It actually runs great, especially after new injectors. Obviously fixed the leaking down/flooding issue and even got rid of the slight idle hiccup. Cold starts are still a little rough, but I think the IAT in the MAF is no good. The temps looked about 15 degrees high.
I'm really only concerned about two noises it makes - the cold idle knock (not too severe) that almost goes away when warm, and this weird metallic noise that you can hear when revving the engine in park. As the RPM falls through 1800ish there's a weird higher-pitched metallic noise. Almost like a jingling noise.
#13
![Default](https://landroverforums.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
You still running that engine without major work? Makes me feel a little better. My UOA was done on the oil from the PO - no clue what it was or what viscosity. He told me "what the owners manual calls for", but that could be basically anything. I found a quart of Castrol 10-30 in the back, but hopefully it wasn't that. Way too thin for the desert out here. I was hoping to get another sample in with proper oil and more gentle driving, but the head gasket had other ideas.
It actually runs great, especially after new injectors. Obviously fixed the leaking down/flooding issue and even got rid of the slight idle hiccup. Cold starts are still a little rough, but I think the IAT in the MAF is no good. The temps looked about 15 degrees high.
I'm really only concerned about two noises it makes - the cold idle knock (not too severe) that almost goes away when warm, and this weird metallic noise that you can hear when revving the engine in park. As the RPM falls through 1800ish there's a weird higher-pitched metallic noise. Almost like a jingling noise.
It actually runs great, especially after new injectors. Obviously fixed the leaking down/flooding issue and even got rid of the slight idle hiccup. Cold starts are still a little rough, but I think the IAT in the MAF is no good. The temps looked about 15 degrees high.
I'm really only concerned about two noises it makes - the cold idle knock (not too severe) that almost goes away when warm, and this weird metallic noise that you can hear when revving the engine in park. As the RPM falls through 1800ish there's a weird higher-pitched metallic noise. Almost like a jingling noise.
#14
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Yeah, I did HG on it at some point, but that's all. Change the oil to some 15w40 Diesel and check your OP, if it is over about 12-14 hot idling then I would run it. Not sure I have ever heard cold idle know, might be exhaust leak. That jinging noise might be a cracked flexplate. I would not rev it in park or neutral too much, that is how you burn up the front clutch. The front pump seal leaks a little internally and applies a little pressure to the front clutch when revved, not enough to engage it but enough to burn up the clutches.
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