My 02002 disco 2 just redid headgaskets, new rad,tstat,waterpump . when i start up and let it idle to burp system rad hoses are not pressurized, temp goes to normal . then take for test drive . runs fine till i increas the speed to 70 M or get on the power to climb a hill . temp rises and radiator hoses pressurize . No one could give me answer up to now and i am very frustrated

 

First, you never bleed the engine with the engine running.
Is your electric fan working, have you tested and replaced your viscus clutch?
You may want to do a chemical block test for exhaust in the coolant and possibly do another coolant pressure test.
Do you have a real time scanner so you can measure the actual temps at idle, while driving around town and highway driving?

 

X2. Bleeding important.

With all that new work, hope belt route is good.

The problem is your reference point for the heat. The D2 has this wonderful gauge designed not to annoy service managers. It is programmed to display at 50% from about 130 - 240F. So while you would like to be 180 - 200F, it shows normal if you are 227, 230, etc. By the time it starts to crawl up you have already been overheating for some time. A scanner or Ultra Gauge can read temps from the OBDII port are are more precise. And lets you know if you are making progress, no need to go to 250 - 284, etc.

Exhaust gas in coolant test is about $50 - $60, does like 15 tests, so you can confirm progress. Changes color. If HG work was done without benefit of a machine shop exam / resurfaceing of heads, that could be a problem. The flatness spec is 0.002 inch, or about half the thickness of printer paper. A cracked block or head can also put fill the coolant system with exhaust gas.

Sometimes this stress is avoided at lower temperature, like a 180 stat instead of a 195.

 

I have a 2000 land rover discovery 2 and had an overheating problem and had the water pump replaced and the coolant checked for exhaust particulates and they power flushed the radiator and filled with dexcool and I also had the thermostat replaced at the same time..now it isn't overheating,but it builds up pressure and sends out coolant thru the top of the coolant reservoir an down the hose coming out of it and I noticed coolant coming out of the reservoir where the reservoir is seamed together in the middle and I can see daylight in a couple spots at the seam,is this normal?? Or is the reservoir supposed to be sealed tight at the seams?? Also I have read all of the posts on this site about this issue and would like to know that if I replace the reservoir and cap if mine isn't normal,then what is the proper coolant maker that I should use and the proper steps beginning to end to flush and bleed the system?? I have read many different things on here so I'm kinda confused..I have 146,000 miles on mine and really love it,but my wife and I have had it since last sept. and have only put a ill over 2,000miles on it and are gettin frustrated that we can't figure out this pressure problem and have only driven it from the shop 5 miles away to home as we are afraid to start or drive it any further..your time and help would be greatly appreciated and I have learned a lot from reading your posts,thanx to all of you

 

1. New coolant container, it should not have cracks.

2. New coolant cap, it has to vent at 18 PSI, not before. The cracked coolant bottle is keeping your system from holding pressure.

3. Dexcool is a bad thing to keep in there. Flush, using distilled water, and replace with premixed 50/50 green coolant, like Peak. Not making you overheat, but may have built up sludge mud in radiator. Can cause coolant system parts to break down. You can check radiator when warmed up, engine off, test for temp on fins top to bottom, in a vertical line. Should not be more than 10F spread. When blocked up, lower rows have little or no flow, and are much cooler than top rows.

4. Wish you had put in one of the 180F thermostats.

5. The coolant temp gauge is built to show 50% from about 130 - 240F. So we don't know what your real temp is. If you can borrow a scanner you can see it exactly.

6. The purge method is when cold, truck off, you release the coolant jug and pull it as high as hose will allow. Pour coolant in with bleeder T open, and don't stop bleeding after first bubble or two, there will be more. Goal when running is no "gurgle" sounds under dash, from bubbles racing thru heater core.

7. Please be sure your fan belt route is correct.

8. Read my post at bottom on cooling problems.

 

Thank you I will try bleeding the system now that I know exactly how and replace the reservoir after our monsoon rains stop here lol..I replaced the thermostat with a factory oem one that it called for from the rover dealership,is this not the correct one?? It's kind of a yellowish tan color..what kind of tool do I test the fins with??Also do you happen to have the link for the Scotish mad radiators that everyone is talking about?? I just want to get the right one..It ran fine when I first got it and we went on a weekend road trip and put 2,000 miles on it and it when we 1st got it,I didn't have problems until I took it in to the shop afterwards to have the coolant changed and they "power" flushed it?? Maybe they ruined my radiator when they did that??

 

When a cooling system is flushed, the thermostat top disk can be come blocked with gunk. It has small holes that meter the hot water into the thermostat and control how fast it responds. Rover dealers in US don't sell the 180F diesel thermostat. Just the oem regular temp one.

Rovers North is one source THERMOSTAT ASSY DII & FREELANDER 180° F, PEL500110, RNQ028 - Land Rover Parts | Rovers North

I thought you already had a new rad.

You can measure with the Mark I palm reader, or an infrared thermometer.

The Scottish radiators are about $300.

 

Thank you very much for the info and the link for the thermostat Do you possibly have a link to where I may purchase the Scottish radiator that everyone is raving about?? My wife says "pretty please!!" She misses her Rover badly it's her dream SUV...

 

Try British Parts of Utah, pretty sure he has them

 

my truck had the old bleeder set up (in line atop the shroud) i recently did flush and 180 tstat and after bleeding the bleed screw was no longer sealing properly. it was late in the evening, so i opted to make a repair with parts on hand. i used a galvanized 1" t with 1" nipples and a plug. works great especially 1" fill/bleed hole being at high point of engine. Should this only be considered a temporary fix? I do not know if there is a problem with the materials that I used. any opinions are greatly appreciated.