Pressure test
#11
I don't know enough about these blocks to argue but Turner Engineering UK builds and sells new and remanufactured blocks with ductile iron flanged liners(sleeves). They also sell the sleeves separately so its possible to "remanufactured" your original block here in the state and not have the shipping costs of your core block and the delivery of the new/rebuild. From what I see navigating their website their new 3/4 blocks are cheaper than the remanufactured. I suspect I either misunderstood or it is harder to re-sleeve a failed block than it is to pour a casting. BTW; Thanks for the link; I hope mine fails the same except my steam cleaned cylinder is #4.
Last edited by 2001SE7; 01-28-2011 at 09:40 AM. Reason: fix grammer and spelling
#12
#16
The sleeves are not flanged. The sleeves are not wet either, meaning no coolant comes near the sleeves. You can remove a sleeve and the block will not leak coolant. If you have a crack in the block that breaks the seal of the water jacket then it will leak. I had a slipped liner on my 2003, I took the block to a machine shop and for ***** and giggles we pulled the liner and above statements are based on my observations, not on hearsay or guess work. The liner is a simple tube pressed into a cylinder, there is a lip at the bottom of the cylinder to keep the liner from slipping down, but nothing at the top to stop it from slipping up. In my case the liner worked loose and slipped up through the firing ring and into the head.
#17
Do not understand
The sleeves are not flanged. The sleeves are not wet either, meaning no coolant comes near the sleeves. You can remove a sleeve and the block will not leak coolant. If you have a crack in the block that breaks the seal of the water jacket then it will leak. I had a slipped liner on my 2003, I took the block to a machine shop and for ***** and giggles we pulled the liner and above statements are based on my observations, not on hearsay or guess work. The liner is a simple tube pressed into a cylinder, there is a lip at the bottom of the cylinder to keep the liner from slipping down, but nothing at the top to stop it from slipping up. In my case the liner worked loose and slipped up through the firing ring and into the head.
#18
Hi Bundu. if what you say is correct "no coolant comes near the sleeve" how is it on the previous page the You Tube video shows to the contrary. That sleeve slipped and appears to be 'wet". The mechanic (which I believe knows what he is talking about) doesn't say anything about the block being cracked. It looks like coolant does come near the sleeve. Maybe the block is cracked also??? That video was what gave me the impression the sleeves are wet. Also curious; if the sleeve lip is at the bottom of the cylinder how is it possible for the sleeve to slip upwards and into the head?
#20
The leak is from a crack in the block behind the sleeve, they are known to crack from the head bolts putting stress on the aluminum. The top of the liners resemble a chisel point, once they work loose they cut their way through the hg and into the head.
These photos should clarify what can happen. There was 1/8 movement up and the liner had worked its way 1/8 down, so a combined 1/4 movement - this thing sounded like a jack hammer.
These photos should clarify what can happen. There was 1/8 movement up and the liner had worked its way 1/8 down, so a combined 1/4 movement - this thing sounded like a jack hammer.
Last edited by Bundu; 02-16-2011 at 07:00 AM.
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