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Preventive Head gasket change

Old Aug 5, 2018 | 01:29 PM
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Default Preventive Head gasket change

Hey folks. I am thinking of upgrading to cometic steel headgaskets this winter. I’d rather use all metal than that composite fabric mess. What would I have to do? I know the only strenuous part is getting the intake off. I’m thinking of doing that and using head studs. Would I use sealant to keep everything good? There ain’t no talking me out of it. Also what thickness should I use? .30, .40. Or .50. Should I use thicker to lower my compression ratio?
 
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Old Aug 5, 2018 | 01:42 PM
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Um, are you leaking anything? If not, then why on earth would you do this?

Get an ultragauge or scangauge or a phone application and monitor the temps I find you aren’t leaking. There is zero reason to tear into an engine that doesn’t have issues. And if you keep the temps in line, you will never have to change the head gaskets.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2018 | 01:50 PM
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Originally Posted by longtallsally
Um, are you leaking anything? If not, then why on earth would you do this?

Get an ultragauge or scangauge or a phone application and monitor the temps I find you aren’t leaking. There is zero reason to tear into an engine that doesn’t have issues. And if you keep the temps in line, you will never have to change the head gaskets.

well im in the process of getting a new upper radiator hose and maf sensor and I decided to check the oil and I found condensation under the oil cap. I’m having a suspicion of a mild leak and I’m just going to order some pure sodium silacate to add in there just to patch any thing up. I figure I’d get the job done in winter and it was overheated 3 times but shut off. I’ve already been stranded for 6 months with no car and I just want to cover all my bases to get through the summer.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2018 | 02:12 PM
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Have you done the coolant color test? I think the tool is well under $50 and the test is pretty comprehensive. Again, if ain’t leaking or getting hot or throwing codes, headgaskets are not a maintenance item. And again, get an external gauge to confirm temps are in the safe zone.

The ultragauge has saved me from blowing up the motor about a half dozen times so far.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2018 | 02:22 PM
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Well my upper radiator hose is gone and the t fitting broke so I had some straight water in there to move it to my parking spot. I just figure im restoring the truck anyway and id rather just upgrade the gaskets to something stronger. That's all. at 198,000 miles she needs some work anyway. I'm also installing double iridium plus as a tune up along with wires.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2018 | 02:57 PM
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Condensation under the oil fill cap is normal if the vehicle is driven mainly on short trips. Get your cooling system in order, get a black or grey 180 degree thermostat while you're at it, get a way to monitor your temps and then reasses your situation. NGK BPR6ES plugs.
 

Last edited by Dave03S; Aug 5, 2018 at 03:01 PM.
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Old Aug 5, 2018 | 02:57 PM
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LR V8 HG’s started out that way & it didn’t work well so they switched. Nothing wrong with TTL bolts, and composite HG’s as long as your heads are true & your block threads are good.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2018 | 03:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Dave03S
Condensation under the oil fill cap is normal if the vehicle is driven mainly on short trips. Get your cooling system in order, get a black or grey 180 degree thermostat while you're at it, get a way to monitor your temps and then reasses your situation. NGK BPR6ES plugs.
Thats a relief. I though I had an incoming head gasket issue. I’ve just never seen anything like that before. The truck runs fine and the oil looks okay. So are these trucks pretty tough as far a overheating. It runs fine when I had to move it. Noisy as hell when cold but quiets down when cold. I was also reading how these modern cars have steel gaskets and almost never blow out.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2018 | 03:15 PM
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You don't use any sealant with cometic head gaskets.

You *do* want to have your heads milled perfectly flat. Thickness of hg depends on how much metal got milled off your heads. Typically you will want the thinnest HGs that Cometic will ship.

ARP studs are a natural fit for metal head gaskets. Because metal HGs seal so well, you don't have to use as much torque when bolting your heads back on. I used 81 ftpds. Others use 70. Using a sealant would interfere with this process.

Also, using ARP studs with their supplied precision-grease will mean that your torque measurements are more accurate than what anyone else can get using the other type of bolts that stretch.

It's just a superior all-around combination. Obviously it costs more to gain a better seal, use material that doesn't tear as easily as rubber, and obtain precise torque.

Highly recommended mod.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2018 | 03:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Best4x4
LR V8 HG’s started out that way & it didn’t work well so they switched. Nothing wrong with TTL bolts, and composite HG’s as long as your heads are true & your block threads are good.
I watched Atlantic British’s entire gasket series and they said the studs are a bit more secure. Is that true? Why don’t the put red loctite on the tty bolts or studs? I thought headgaskets needed sealant especially around the cylinder edges. What are the common headgasket failure points too. I’m thinking of adding pure sodium silicate since I’m doing a prestone chemical flush anyhow. They have a 8-10 oz bottle for 11 dollars online.
 
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