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Preventive Head gasket change

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Old Aug 5, 2018 | 03:19 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by No Doubt
You don't use any sealant with cometic head gaskets.

You *do* want to have your heads milled perfectly flat. Thickness of hg depends on how much metal got milled off your heads. Typically you will want the thinnest HGs that Cometic will ship.

ARP studs are a natural fit for metal head gaskets. Because metal HGs seal so well, you don't have to use as much torque when bolting your heads back on. I used 81 ftpds. Others use 70. Using a sealant would interfere with this process.

Also, using ARP studs with their supplied precision-grease will mean that your torque measurements are more accurate than what anyone else can get using the other type of bolts that stretch.

It's just a superior all-around combination. Obviously it costs more to gain a better seal, use material that doesn't tear as easily as rubber, and obtain precise torque.

Highly recommended mod.
Thats what I was saying too. My rovers a restoration vehicle too. I even though of having a custom grind Atkinson cycle cam long ago with having my heads milled. Also what about cylinder and head ceramic coatings? I’m very curious. I’m just thinking of long term improvements is all.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2018 | 03:26 PM
  #12  
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The back of the head toward the firewall is the usual first place for an external HG leak to show up. If you had an internal failure you would experience fouled plugs and misfires.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2018 | 03:37 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by Jamie2333
Also what about cylinder and head ceramic coatings? I’m very curious. I’m just thinking of long term improvements is all.


Good for some vehicles, but I personally wouldn't do the coatings on a Disco 2 simply because you aren't going to gain any realistic maintenance or performance advantage worth any comparative time, risk, and expense.


Obviously the biggest performance improvements that us laymen can reasonably make to Disco 2s would be:
Performance cam,
Grinding exhaust headers to match head exhaust ports, and
new racing cats.


Likewise, I'd *think* that the biggest maintenance-reducers would be:
inline coolant thermostat mod
metal head gaskets + ARP head studs
Option B
a robust aftermarket, greasable front drive shaft
 

Last edited by No Doubt; Aug 5, 2018 at 03:41 PM.
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Old Aug 5, 2018 | 04:02 PM
  #14  
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Well I was thinking of using the coatings to reduce temperatures perhaps. I heard a white coating reflects heat back into the combustion chamber to help with a better burn and lower head temps because of the heat reflected back.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2018 | 04:03 PM
  #15  
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Well i've got no misfires so I am clear!
 

Last edited by Jamie2333; Aug 5, 2018 at 04:05 PM.
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Old Aug 5, 2018 | 04:08 PM
  #16  
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The issue with TTY bolts is getting them torqued properly & having good threads. You do it in steps 15FTLB, then let it sit say 20min, then do your first 90 turn, wait another 20-30min, then your final turn and with the proper torque pattern you should be good go.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2018 | 04:55 PM
  #17  
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Well thats sounds logical. Now if I could figure out who can tune my fuel maps then ill be fine.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2018 | 05:50 PM
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It tunes itself depending on the quality of fuel you use, data from MAF, knock sensors, O2's etc.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2018 | 07:22 PM
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It does? so its one of the few cars that adapt? Now out of curiosity does the tranny really adapt to driving styles? Does taking the cables off reset all adaptations?
 
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Old Aug 5, 2018 | 07:28 PM
  #20  
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I am a very economical driver. I rely on fuel deceleration cut off, coasting to lights and I drive with minimal load as far as the right foot goes. I wouldn't be surprised if I got 20 mpg city. I fill my tires 1 pound below maximum rating 2 psi below in summer and I use mobil 1 synthetic too.
 
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