I purchased a 2003 Disco chassis (already stripped of (stripped of engine, wiring harnesses, transmission and transfer case) during the winter (pic 1). The exterior and interior are in great shape.

The original idea was to strip the parts for my current running 2003 (pic 2), including some of the parts that are unique to the 2003/2004 model.

I am now thinking it would be fun to "chop" off the front and make it into an enclosed trailer for road trips. I am thinking of starting at the A-pillar. Then convert the inside of the cabin into a sleeping/storage area. And if the budget allows, paint it the same Alveston Red as my powered Disco. I have a set of brand new James Baroud window insulation/blackout kit that I would love to put to good use (https://www.jamesbaroud.com/en/produ...nsulation-kit/)

Some considerations:

1) Trailer certification needed and insurance?
Ability to get it registered by the British Columbia provincial registration authorities as a u-built trailer.

2) Weight distribution of the trailer?
The examples that I found on the Web show Disco chopped chassis starting at the B-pillar. I would like to try cutting it off at the A-pillar to have more cabin room for sleeping and storage.

3) Need for Rear brakes?
My powered Disco is already heavy with steel bumpers, winch, rack and roof tent. The resultant GVW of the trailer and combined GCW may determine if rear trailer brakes (electrical?) are needed. I understand the trailer itself if over 3000-lbs GVW require brakes in the States. I will have to do some checking on the Canadian requirements. I am not a technical expert in this area and will need some help from a buddy or shop to figure out adding electric brakes to the Disco wheel end.

4) The tongue?
I have some local buddies who can help with the fab and welding.

5) Trailer Security?
Door locks for the front passenger, rear driver, rear passenger and cargo doors will be inoperable since the BCU is no longer working. I will have to figure out how to get these doors locked.

Any thoughts on other key factors/obstacles that I may have missed? Or ideas to resolve the above challenges, especially the brakes and door security? Thanks!


The spare chassis coverted into trailer:


My powered Disco (p/s. the always helpful Richard Gallant is parked on the right of the pic):


An example found on the Web:

An example found on the Web:


An example found on the Web:

 

Biggest concern for me would be the COG of the trailer off the highway. Lot of material up high and with all the running gear out it's going to shift up a good amount especially cut at the a-pillar. That said the aussies make some wild off-road campers that look like they shouldn't work and then they blow my expectations out of the water so it could be done and be just fine I'm sure.

That said..freaking go for it. I love seeing what people come up with and build, that's half the fun of forums!

 

That looks great! I'm wondering if you could still use the gas tank for extra fuel, or put a fresh water water tank with spigots inside/side for dishes/drinking water. to lower the center of gravity (assuming gear is on top) and be useful as an emergency trailer in case of a disaster!

 

Nice!!

I'm curious if you couldn't keep more of it for a longer trailer? Perhaps include both doors?

 

I think you probably could keep it up to the A pillar, but you're going to have to watch your tongue weight pretty closely. You may need to add some ballast behind the rear axle to pull it off.

What's the tongue weight rating on these things? 800 or 1000 lbs for the factory hitch? You're going to max that out in a hurry with the axle that far back on the trailer.

If you're making a trailer out of it anyway, you could probably move the axle forward maybe 3 or 4 inches and that would help a little. It would just be out of center in the wheel well and depending on tire size you might have to trim the doors a bit.

I think either way you're going to have to add ballast as far back as you can though. Maybe even keep or add a hitch to the trailer disco and have an additional rack back there to carry part of your gear to help balance it out.

Remember, 800 or 1000 lbs is your tongue weight limit. I'm thinking 800. That said, in a perfect world about 10-15% weight bias towards the tongue is optimal.

 

I appreciate everyone chiming in and sharing thoughts.

The general idea is to keep the trailer as light as possible. With storage for some camping gear and a sleeping platform. It would not be for severe off-roading. But general overlanding and road-trips with my sons.

It would be ideal to keep both doors on each side, ie, chop off at the A-pillar. However, looking at the pics on the Web and what others have done .... they all show them being cut off at the B-pillar, ie, one door on each side. The chassis weight for a Disco 2 is around 6,200-lbs (based on the spec book for a 1999 Disco). I am thinking those who have done this in the past must have discovered this challenge of keeping the tongue weight down.

I am continuing to do more research. This is the best example that I have found of someone who has done it:

 

Just a small note; 6200 is the gross vehicle weight rating (maximum weight when fully loaded). The curb weight is closer to 4500 lbs depending somewhat on your specific options.

Without engine, trans, interior, front axle, front clip, etc I would guess the actual weight of the trailer (dry) will come out somewhere around 2800 lbs, give or take.

 

Alex,

Thanks for the clarification. I must been reading the spec sheet too quickly!

 

Found this…. From a guy named Jason Slutsky.

 

Great news, I am getting my hopes up!

I hope to make swing by our British Columbia insurance registration folks next week to inquire about trailer registration. Their website says: "Most ubilt trailers weighing less than 1,400 kilograms don't require a B.C.-assigned VIN or a vehicle inspection."

1400 kg = 3,080 lbs

It becomes more complicated when a vehicle inspection is involved.