I read somebody's post that said not to disconnect spark plugs as it will burn out something (ECU or coil pack?). Does this not apply when doing all of the them or I am incorrect?

In other news, its seems like the battery is taking a charge. I haven't put a real load on it yet, but after a couple of days at the 2A setting on my regular charger, I put in on the Battery Tender and after a few hours, the green light started blinking, indicating >80% charge. I'm shocked and a bit skeptical, in my experience, once batteries are dead for a significant period of time (a week or two), they just never work again. I guess I'll find out.

 

If you groung a plug wire against the block, in theroy you could damage the ECU. I would be surprised if you cant restore a battery with a battery tender. Put some jumpers on it and turn the key.

 

drowssap, that makes sense now. the advice was not to do the old timer method of checking for spark...

According to my Battery Tender, this thing is fully charged. Geez. Now I want to crank it up. But the adult (and engineer) in me says the oil and gas have been sitting for a year+ and there might be a catastrophic coolant leak.

Other than those things, my next place to look is the transfer case lever being stuck in bottom-center or bottom-right.

 

Despite the battery giving me a green earlier, it really is dead. Date sticker on top is 6/11. Oh well, I expected that.

Still puzzling a bit over the transfer case shifter. Can it be moved forward/back/left/right as necessary or is there a "gate" (H or figure 8) that it has to move through? I ask because of a thread from a few years ago that I dug up on this forum. If i find the link again i'll post it for reference. I guess next step is to get under the car and hit everything on the T-case with PB blaster to see if I can prevent having to disassemble the console.

I was looking at the brake bleeding procedure in the RAVE, it seems completely conventional, but refers to a complete bleeding procedure in the "TestBook/T4". Does anyone know where I can find that procedure and if it is really necessary if you don't open up the brake system?
EDIT: I guess the Testbook/T4 is the LR dealer's diagnostic computer. Is there a cheap alternative?

 

Yep
the Mrs. pumping it and you opening the bleeder.....

 

"pump it up , hold it down, pump it up, hold it down" you can also jump the ABS pump.
you might be able to save the battery with a charger and not a maintainer.

if your going to have a catastrophic failure have it now before you bet to deep

 

where are you located? maybe someone close to you has a AutoCom/Delphi scanner they could loan/rent you and you could do the procedure yourself (do a search on here for this scanner); or you could buy one from China for fairly cheap.

 

Well, I have the motive products pressure bleeder. Hopefully I won't end up needing any more than that. I just read some things that indicated to me that bleeding the DII brakes were not as straightforward as most cars.

 

if you are not braking the line between the master and the modulator, it is the same a standard bleeding. I have bleed many dII and the only time i have problem was when the master was replaced first.

 

Thats good to know! Hopefully I will never have to worry about that.

I read in somone else's thread about pulling the fuel pump fuse to pre-lube the engine, that sounds a ton easier than pull off all of the spark plug wires.