So my U-joints are not greasable. Does anyone have experience with aftermarket heavy duty propshafts?

 

Just remove your front drive shaft and have a tranny shop rebuild them, less then $200 is a great way to go.

 

i have great basin rovers driveshafts in my d1. another aftermarket maker is tom woods. since you already have a double cardan in the front, just take it to get rebuilt with greasable u-joints. its the cheapest way to get and youll get the same result.

 

OK, thanks. Any reason I shouldn't just rebuild it myself?

 

Yeah, it's a royal PITA. I took the front shaft after spending a day fighting the u-joints (I had a vice and a bearing press) to a local shop and paid 100 dollars labor, 75 dollars in parts to replace all of the u-joints and the centering ball kit in the cardan joint. I figure a day off work is worth more than a hundred bucks. Find a drive shaft shop and they willrebuild itand balance it for you too.

 

I'll probably replace my u-joints this weekend. I could not see how it's any different from any other driveshaft (except for the centering ball), so I guess I'll find out. This is the second time I've heard that it's aPITA, the first time from the dealer I bought it from who said that they tried replacing them and it's just not worth it.I guess I'm stubborn - or cheap.

 

Well, the shop said $476 parts and labour to rebuild both shafts if I bring them in. $69 each for the U-Joints. What parts should I be looking for to do the whole thing?

 

AJH, did the shop mention what brand u-joints they are using? The majority of ppl here have used Precision and Neapo brand (both about 17-20 bucks a piece) with no issues, some of the high-speed folks use Golden seal or something, they cost about 75 a piece. For the whole thing you need 5 u-joints and a centering kit for the cardan.

Jkid, the centering ball is the tough part. I had no real problems with the forward u-joint. Getting the centering ball on without worrying if the centering ball bearing is set correctly is the difficulty that steers me from doing it myself. For100 dollars for each shaft you place the liability on the repair shop, at least it should.

 

OK, I pulled the rear off as part of another job, and it turns out that one has both nipples so that'll be ok. I'll be pulling the front probably tomorrow and will double check everything.

 

Hi, I am new to this website and was wondering...
The two prop shafts connect to the transfer case right? So these joints is called U-Joints?
Is it possible to change the U-joints without replacing the prop shafts?
I am inexperienced with this and would greatly appreciate any help!