Hey guys,

I posted a thread on here last week about my driveshaft going out on me, so I'm looking to replace it obviously. I'm planning on ordering a Proshaft from Justin off of eBay. I talked to him and he said the shaft does not come with the mounting hardware that I'll need. If I order a proshaft from Justin, what else will I need in order to completely replace the driveshaft? Also, he said that I should measure the length of my driveshaft before ordering one to make sure it is not the shorter one. My Disco is already at the shop so I don't have a way to measure it. Is there a list of certain models that do have them and do not? Thanks for the help, I really appreciate it!

 

Go to the shop if you have too and physically measure the shaft don't relay on anything else.

You will need (8) 3/8 nylock nuts. Some recommend replacing the (8) bolts as well I believe they are 3/8" x 1.25" long. Grade 8. Do not install anything weaker than grade 8 bolts on the drivetrain.

 

Don't you have to take off the flange to replace the bolts? If they're really rusty I'd say go for it, most people don't replace them.

 

Call Justin back and remind him it is for a 01, there are only 2 different lengths, the other for the 03 and 04.
As for hardware, I have had my drive shaft off 4 times and have never replaced any of the parts, just keep recycling.

 

Grade 5 is fine. In fact, if only replacing the nuts, grade 5 is better as that's what the OEM fasteners are and it's better to not mix bolt and nut grades.

 

I've told you before only the nuts are really worth replacing. With no mechanic background it is a super easy job to do. If you aren't comfortable replacing the driveshaft you shouldn't own a rover. Take the nuts off the driveshaft and take them to napa and they will get you 8 that fit. You won't improve much if any replacing the stock bolts.

 

Be sure to soak them with high quality penetrant oil. PB blaster did little for me, only when my father in law soaked the bolts/nuts with his more expensive kroil did it do any good, and even then it required tight fitting box end wrenches with cheaters.

Take your time. It is a very easy job, but can be extremely frustrating if you strip the bolts!

If you research the swap, you will find many ended up going to the dremmel. What a headache, grinding away under your vehicle. Don't go cheap, get a good penetrant, soak it; then get some good wrenches and take your time.

I can't remember the bolt/nut size, but I believe the nearest English wrench actually had a tighter tolerance than the metric one. So test both your English and metric wrenches on each bolt. Depending on the manufacturing tolerance on the particular bolt and wrench, you may use a different combination for each bolt. Just make sure you have a tight fit to ensure you don't strip any heads.

I ordered from GBR and it came with nuts and bolts. Good thing too, I started to strip a few of the bolts when I attempted the job under a 24-hour PB blast soak. I would not have been able to reuse them if I wanted too. Disco Mike is a much better mechanic than me and obviously did the job right the first time.

 

You will need to make sure every joint including the cardon joint is greased. The ball will require a needle on your grease gun to grease. I am not happy with my purchase from Proshaft from January of this year. I just got my Disco 2 out of the shop today. The bill came to just shy of $500. I installed a front prop from Proshaft January 2013. I thought that the sqeeking and grinding might be a pinion bearing. I did that job on my range rover years ago and didn't want to do it again. It turns out that the cardon joint did not have a drop of grease on it from Proshaft. It is seven months old and FAILED. I didn't even consider the shaft as a possibility because it was new. I am not happy. If I get around to it later I will post pictures of the joint. The yoke for the u-joint has grease. The pin is dry. For a company whose sole product is drive shafts, overlooking grease is unforgivable. I am now $800 and a total of two weeks between both repairs that I was without a vehicle. The first time I had a rental car which is not included in that $800. This time I had a motorcycle to use.

 

As for getting stuck nuts and bolts freed up, there is an old shop trick of mixing acetone and transmission fluid 50/50. A study was done that proved it outperforms every product on the market including PB blaster, WD-40, etc. Give it a try.

 

Just curious, how much difference in length between the 03 / 04 and the earlier DII's? When I bought my new shaft from BP Utah, it was one size fits all.