Hey Guys,

My 2000 D2 with 104k miles has a significant (scary!) pull to the right under heavy braking. Happens at highway speeds only, like when having to jam on the brakes for a traffic jam.

I replaced both front calipers (they were dragging)/pads/rotors which actually changed the pulling from the left side to right side (weird).

Now I'm thinking front suspension bushings.

Any thoughts?

Thanks!

Andy

 

Did you bleed the brakes?

Your front end alignment is probably off. Does your steering wheels sit dead center while going straight on the highway or do you have to hold it a little to one side? If you are driving on level road and take your hands off the wheel will it start to track in one direction?

 

Thanks for responding Jared. Yes, I bled the brakes (old school way, wife pumps brake pedal while I release air from bleeder at caliper).
Had an alignment about a yr ago, steering wheel is dead center, and the truck tracks straight down the road.
I'm thinking suspension because it only pulls right under heavy braking, when the front suspension is heavily compressed (nose dive).

 

A bad ball joint can make brakes pull...

 

Do you get any vibration at high speeds or while braking?

You might want to jack up one front wheels one at a time and check it for play. Grab the top and bottom and try and move it and then the sides. Do you have and movement?

 

Jared....no vibration at high speed or under braking.

I will check for play in the wheels and ball joints

 

Have you tried driving down a flat road, I mean dead flat no camber, and see whether it steers to the right with your hands off the steering wheel?

Bleeding the brakes the old fashioned way isn't right or sufficient with ABS and traction control. If you emptied the brake fluid reservoirs when you changed the calipers it's almost a guarantee you have air in the braking system somewhere. There is a very complex procedure for bleeding brakes using two people and intermittently running the engine etc or failing that you need them bled using Text Book (unique to LR workshops) by an LR main dealer OR you need a high end OBD11 reader, typically only Nanocom or Bearmach Hawkeye to activate the shuttle valves whilst bleeding the system. Don't be fooled by what others say (it ain't their truck or family at risk) about not needing to bleed properly if you've emptied the reservoir or ABS modulator there isn't any other proper options. Yep, they MAY seem OK at 30mph poodling along and whistling to the CD until you need to hit the brakes real hard and there's nothing there or it pulls crazily to one side or the other. There's plenty of real and proper info on the web about D2 brake bleeding etc. Ya pays your money and takes ya chances ........... rather you than me

 

Thanks for chiming in ORF....agree that my bleeding method didn't get all the air out, pedal is mushy. I will look into the proper method you mentioned.