You said you shot the wires, do you mean you trouble shot the wires and verify you have spark at each wire? I work in aviation also, curious what AC you work on?

 

I verified voltage. As for spark, after I shocked myself and there were no codes, I quit. I'm going to pull the plugs and check what the oil is in those 3 back pistons (see pics on page 1). I've gotta have my Rover back. Oh, and I'm in the Air Force. I work on KC-135s now, a Boeing 707 variant I believe?

 

Sooo.... The worst of my fears have become true. This is the plug from the passenger's side, rear-most cylinder.

It was chrome/silver and clean when I installed it during my rebuild less than 3 months ago. It would appear that I have an internal oil leak. Could someone re-affirm this before I tear the engine out, again.

On a side note, I used ARP studs and the composite seal kit from Lucky8. There is no torque value given with these new studs. I used the standard torque value in the manual plus the 90, 90. I only got through the first 85 deg before it started stripping out the head though... just a note.

 

Oh no!! As I'm sure your aware, the factory bolts actually stretch. Your ARP bolts do not stretch and for this reason they have a much lower torque value. Not sure what 180 degrees is in torqure but the factory bolts are not the easiest to turn on the last 90 degrees so I would guess the torque is in the 100 ft/pound range.

Which threads on your block did you damaged? Did you repair these damaged threads. The threads on the RH #8 Cyl would not have been the first in sequence to torque. Now knowing that you have APR studs, I would say that your torque is probably to low if you just went to 85 degrees. I would have contacted ARP if I had any questions on the torque. Why don't you give them a call and maybe you could get by with re-torquing to the correct value.

Good Luck