Radiator Hose "T" Fitting is Leaking
#1
#2
#5
It is a three piece hose with clamps.
The Tee is leaking on the "female" side of the bleeder screw. The screw itself is fine as I had replaced it previously.
I had just bled my radiator this past weekend, so I did loosen and tighten the bleeder screw to do that. Perhaps I tightened it down too tight when I was done and caused the crack in the tee.
Can I buy just the tee or do I need to get the tee along with the replacement hoses?
I saw another post where someone made a tee out of black cast iron pipe from Home Depot/Lowes. Maybe I'll do that...
The Tee is leaking on the "female" side of the bleeder screw. The screw itself is fine as I had replaced it previously.
I had just bled my radiator this past weekend, so I did loosen and tighten the bleeder screw to do that. Perhaps I tightened it down too tight when I was done and caused the crack in the tee.
Can I buy just the tee or do I need to get the tee along with the replacement hoses?
I saw another post where someone made a tee out of black cast iron pipe from Home Depot/Lowes. Maybe I'll do that...
#6
I switched to the brass bleed screw. The female part of the Tee is prone to cracking or being stripped with the brass screw. I had to change mine a couple of time. Once from stripping it. Another time from tightening it too hard and it cracked the female opening. I have since learnt that a gentle tightening is all it needs.
I was able to find a T-joint from a junkard. I have not seen the availability of a brand new Tee joint without buying the entire top hose assembly set. Perhaps Ebay or from someone like Paul Grant?
I was able to find a T-joint from a junkard. I have not seen the availability of a brand new Tee joint without buying the entire top hose assembly set. Perhaps Ebay or from someone like Paul Grant?
#7
Just take out the "T" fitting and put in straight pipe.
You don't need it.
To bleed the system - raise the coolant tank and run the engine with the cap off the coolant tank for 8 minutes at about 1,200 to 1,500 RPM
That bleeds it.
the T fitting is good at putting AIR BACK into the cooling system.
To each their own.
You don't need it.
To bleed the system - raise the coolant tank and run the engine with the cap off the coolant tank for 8 minutes at about 1,200 to 1,500 RPM
That bleeds it.
the T fitting is good at putting AIR BACK into the cooling system.
To each their own.
#8
I have it available pretty cheap:
URO brand URO Radiator Coolant Hose 117 29026 738 | OEM Part Haus
Genuine GENUINE Radiator Coolant Hose 117 29026 001 | OEM Part Haus
Let me know if I can help!
URO brand URO Radiator Coolant Hose 117 29026 738 | OEM Part Haus
Genuine GENUINE Radiator Coolant Hose 117 29026 001 | OEM Part Haus
Let me know if I can help!