In the 22 years I have owned my DII, have never had to enter the security code for the factory radio in my truck, even after the battery was disconnected for an extended period.

According to the In-Car Entertainment manual, DIIs were delivered with the security code feature disabled, so my guess is the odds are >50/50 that a radio you buy from a boneyard will not need the security code. And in the event it does, the serial number for the radio is stamped on the unit. With that serial number, a Land Rover dealer is "supposed" to be able to retrieve the radio security code.

 

Ok, here are my photos of the first one (I have two to do). I cannot figure out how to get the front circuit board out, does it come out without unsoldering? I can take better closeups of whichever area you need me to.

 

This one looks nasty

 

You mean the rear PCB with the connectors? The rear connector is soldered to both, the rear and the main board, very hard to get those apart. In the second set of pictures it looks like the voltage regulator circuit got smoked up, corroded or both. You can try to clean the area with alcohol and a . Then refresh the solder points with flux and adding a little bit of fresh solder with a soldering iron. Clean off the flux with alcohol and check for conductivity of the PCB traces. Check for cracked or missing traces. Traces can be fixed with thin wire. Resistors can be measured and should show some value between zero and infinite. The other components are hard to test without a schematic. A service manual usually provides voltage levels for certain points, so you could test it under voltage. Without such documentation you can pretty much guess only. I had been looking for the service manual for years, but could never find it.

 

Hi. Read slowly
The first picture shows at its top, a golden wire winding. That is the area where mine failed its +12VBAT path. Would need another vertical angle photograph. aimed only to the label L801.
The front panel slides frontward after removing 2 screws on the sides of the radio black plastic tabs.
The last image by left bottom labeled 7 is the +12V ACC that continues on the other side of that vertical board.

Is that corrosion from moisture by the top right of the third "nasty" image, and by some pins of the CB402 connector ? Those deserve a close-up photo. Clean with acetone and a paint brush without dislodging/breaking/forcing components. The bottom of the board that may have problem under that same area if percolated trough; is another next chapter to explain how to remove the main board out of the metal chassis.

The bluish coating around the square integrated circuits are to prevent/protect corrosion on those tiny pins ---> smells like the dripping from the fuc**g 'rainroof' was already known to reach inside the radio.

What is the symptom ? Not turning on ? Is the red fuse in the rear connector healthy ? After you remove the front panel, continuity for the power switch can be probed when pushing the front ****.

I do not know what is the added green wire in the second image. Appears like images are from 3 radios. Label them to identify which one are we commenting about.
Will continue...

 

Thanks for the response! I have had many of these fail over the years so I am excited to finally have a resource that can help troubleshoot board level electronics (I am a mechanical engineer, so board electronics are my weak spot - that and chemistry).

Ok, looked the board over thorougly and could not find the L801 label, can you circle and show me? I did take two additional photo zoomed in on the area near the coil.





I did remove the front panel on the radio in the first set of phones, did not on the 2nd one.

Are you referencing this?


Yes, it looks like there a couple of areas with corrosion on the nasty one. I have cleaned with acetone per your instruction. I can see that the board needs to be de-soldered from the chassis to get it out completely. I do have some small soft pipe cleaners just the right size so I cleaned the underside with acetone as well, I wonder about soaking the entire bottom of the board in acetone, or maybe a battery type de-corrosion spray and then cleaning with acetone.

how could it not be with the giant holes in the sunroof pans and constant rain in the UK?

Yes

Yes

On which pins, can you please show me?




Yes, strangely it is only on one of the two radios?

 

I would not use acetone because it desolves the coating where it is
not necessary. You can solder through the conformal coating if some remains on soldering points. After soldering it is recommended to coat the repair area in order to avoid corrosion from condensation moisture.

 

Hi.
L801 is that goldish coil. I did remove it while tracking traces and perhaps the label L801 is under it. You do not need to remove that coil.
This image has an arrow pointing to a diode cathode. That trace is +12VBAT. Check continuity from the rear connector Power 4 to that arrow and to each side of the coil where its tinned wire enters into the board.



If you have continuity OR +12V when +12V is fed to "power4', the hidden vias is OK. In other words, feed 12v to power4 and ground to chassis to measure presence of +12V at the arrow point and the tinned coil sides.
================================================== =
If the top side is cleaned with acetone, let's wait to tackle the underside already done with pipe cleaner. Compare with the the not-nasty and with a non-sharp blunt tool clean the space between traces or residue. I use a dental tool for such. Removal out of chassis later if deserved.

================================================== =
Yes, probe continuity at that label 7 ---> should connect to rear connector 'power 7' (which has +12V when the ignition key is turned)
================================================== =

On the reverse side of the front panel image, there is a pair of pins coming from the switch/volume assembly. Those are not its trio of pins. Check continuity on the pair not the trio when the shaft is pushed in. If yes when pushed without extreme force, the turn-on switch is good. If not, we will go to surgery later. Image is optional if you want.
================================================== =====
That green wire, if factory fitted, can be the radio failed manufacturing tests and the test technician had to bypass/jump a bad trace, via or something with that wire
================================================== ===
At least we are having fun. To be continued...

 

Ok, on the clean board, the coil wire closest to the diode does not have continuity to connector 4. On the nasty one, the other side does not have power to connector 4. Nasty board is quite corroded at that terminal - clean it? Both have continuity between pins 7

 

Thanks. That is good news to find a flaw.
Can you solder a ~6" piece of any insulated wire end to the wider J shaped trace on the tip of the arrow below after scraping that to bare copper so solder will stick ? The thickness of a staple wire is enough. (like telephone wire)




And, another ~ 6" piece of thin wire to the label 7 point ?
Twist their ends together.
Plug the front panel back.
Leave the cassette unit out.
Apply battery voltage (-) to radio chassis. Alligator clip is OK
Apply (+12V) to the added twisted wires together.
What color is the smoke ? --- joking---. Does its display show life when pushing the power button ?

Will answer post #19 later. Better show a pertinent image of your post #19 before. Did not get it clear.

To be continued...